When I started working on the Kelly Anorak pattern I knew right away I wanted, big, deep, roomy pockets. I take the pup out for long walks a few times a day and I like being able to carry everything I need without lugging around a purse (like treats, keys, my phone, aaaand let's be honest: an old droolly tennis ball). Gusseted pockets are great because they create a little more volume without adding to the square footage; our pockets are about 1" deep and trust me, you can feel the difference.
For our green twill sample, we used the pockets we included in the pattern and that's what we'll cover in this post. For our blue waterproof sample, we removed the folded flap on the pocket and added a flap to the outside so the pocket would be completely concealed and waterproof. If you’d like to do the same, you can download the modified pattern pieces and instructions here. While we don’t have step by step photos for this pocket, much of the construction is the same as the regular gusseted pocket, so please refer to this post if you need a little extra help.
To start, finish the straight raw edges of the pocket bags as I've done below. If you don't have a serger you can finish with pinking shears or a zig zag stitch. The goal is to reduce unravelling inside the pocket. Make sure you can still spot the notches you should have marked when you cut the pockets out.
Next up, fold the straight edge of the pocket facing in 1/4" two times, press and topstitch into place.
With right sides together, line up the facing along the pocket extension and pin into place. Make sure the circle marks are clearly marked. Sew around the circumference of the pocket facing using a short stitch length, starting and stopping at each circle. Backstitch each time.
Trim the seams all around to about 1/4". Trim a little closer around the corners so you get a clean point in the next step.
Turn the entire thing right side out. You may need to snip to the circle markings to get everything to lay flat.
Now fold all three straight edges of the pocket in 5/8". Press the free edges of the facing in while you're at it.
Fold the bottom and the long side edge in 1" and press.
Stitch the pocket facing to the pocket itself just above the pocket facing seam. Now unfold the sides. The folds you pressed will now act as a sort of guide.
Fold the bottom corner right sides together at 45 degrees so that the pressed guides line up with each other. I've drawn the line in question in chalk so you can see below. Pin into place.
Sew along this line, from the angled edge to the first folded guide. Backstitch. Trim the seam to 1/4" and snip along the angled edge if necessary to get the seam to open flat.
Press the seam open.
Turn the pocket right side out. Give it a press along the edges you folded earlier so that the pocket gusset presses in on itself like a pleat.
Now it's time to topstitch the bottom and long side along the edge. You will only be topstitching the face of the pocket to the adjacent side like below.
To sew, stitch 1/8 from the edge, keeping the folded seam allowances tucked in. You can either stop at the corner, backstitch, and then turn the pocket to sew the next stitching line. Or, you can keep the 3D gusseted edge folded away from your stitch line, keep your needle down when you are ready to turn the corner, raise your presser foot to readjust the layers of fabric, and continue sewing the second edge.
It should look something like this when you're done:
You should install your snap buttons now (see our tutorial here); it's a little easier to install them before attaching the pockets to the jacket.
Before sewing the pockets to your jacket, I like to use a chalk pen and quilting ruler to identify exactly where to locate them, using the circle markings as a general guide. Below I have drawn in the side and bottom edge of the pocket - the side is parallel to the center front.
Pin your pocket into place along the bottom and side, lining up the edge with the chalk guideline. Press the pocket flat - only the sides of the pocket gusset should be pinned - the face of the pocket should be out of the way. You may need to trim the corner seam allowance to get everything to neatly tuck in along that corner.
Stitch the side and bottom of the pocket to the coat, 1/8" from the edge of the seam. Start and stop at the inside corner as you did before, backstitching to secure. The top and shorter side are still hanging free.
Pin the remaining sides of the pocket into place, ensuring that everything is neatly folded together.
Topstitch the remaining free sides of the pocket to the jacket, 1/8" from the edge. You will be stitching through the both the face of th epocket and the fold of the pocket underneath. Backstitch when you start and finish.
Since the opening on the pocket will be put under a lot of stress, I like to finish up by sewing a little bar tack at each corner to help secure it.
And that's it! Three-dimensional gusset pockets are sewn in! Enjoy filling your pockets with everything you used to carry in your purse.
Read the next posts in our Kelly Sewalong series: sew the drawstring casing or sew the zipper placket!