When making fitted and semi-fitted dresses and jumpsuits, ensuring the bodice fits well is one of the biggest steps to ensuring a beautiful and successful garment. This guide is here to help you identify and solve common bodice fitting issues and teach you how to make the proper adjustments to get your bodice fitting just right. As always, we strongly suggest you make a quick muslin of any fitted or semi-fitted garment to help you identify fit issues before you cut into your final fabric.
Before you begin, identify the body type the pattern company is drafting for and compare their measurements to your own to choose the best size for your body. Here is the Closet Core size chart and Deer&Doe size chart in case you want to understand the proportions we drafted for. And remember: you can always adjust patterns to fit your unique body. That is what this guide is all about!
Table of contents
Understanding Ease
It's always a good idea to determine the fit intended by the designer. Is it meant to be close-fitting with minimal ease? Or slightly looser and more relaxed? If that’s not clear in the pattern description or photos, take a look at the finished garment measurements. The difference between the body and final garment measurements in the bust, waist, and hip will indicate how much ease is intended. Please note: with our patterns, we always suggest choosing your size based on your measurements rather than the final garment measurements, so the pattern fits with the intended amount of wearing and design ease. The first step is taking a few key measurements that you can use to compare to the size chart of the pattern you are working with.
Here’s a helpful chart to help you identify the amount of ease a garment may have based on the difference between body and garment measurements:
Some alterations can be done before you even cut your fabric. These alterations include lengthening the pattern, grading between sizes and doing full or small bust adjustments. As you become more experienced in sewing your own garments and working with different pattern companies, you will get to know your body better and recognize the alterations you require often. Let’s get started with common alterations!
Bust Adjustments
We have covered small bust adjustments SBAs and full bust adjustments FBAs in depth for different types of bodices previously, so feel free to refer to those posts if you are interested.
Length and Width Adjustments
We all carry our weight in different areas of our bodies. Usually, our proportions differ from those of a standardized dress form. You might have experiences with ready-to-wear or patterns that are drafted too short or too long for you, or maybe you are wider or narrower in particular areas. Off-the-rack garments often fall short when accommodating these differences, but bespoke garments are tailored with care to embrace every line, curve and contour of your unique body.
If you know your torso is longer or shorter than most blocks (we draft for a person with a height of 5’-6”, for example), we suggest you refer to the bodice length alterations for the torso in this guide so you know how to alter your pattern pieces before cutting into your fabric. You can also compare vertical measurements like front and back waist length on the pattern piece to your own measurements.
Similarly, it is necessary to address width alterations before cutting into your fabric to ensure the pattern pieces accommodate you. Whether you find garments too snug or too loose around the bodice, understanding how to adjust the width is key. In this case, modifying the bodice width by grading to a larger or a smaller waist will ensure your clothing fits comfortably and complements your unique silhouette. If you are between sizes, check the size chart to see which size you need to grade to.
Long Torso
Symptom: You have a long torso, or the bodice feels too short. The waist of the garment is sitting higher than the designer intended.
Solution: Slash and spread along the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern to extend the bodice the same amount for both front and back, keeping the center front/grainline aligned. True/connect the center front and side seams, and true waistline darts if applicable.
Short Torso
Symptom: You have a short torso, or the bodice feels long. Loose wrinkles appear around the waist section.
Solution: On your muslin, pinch out a tuck around the entire waist area to determine the amount of length to remove. Slash and overlap the bodice along the lengthen/shorten line and remove the desired amount of length. Keep the center front/grainline aligned. True the center front and the side seams, true waistline darts if applicable.
Wide Waist
Symptom: The area around the waist of the bodice is tight and might creep up as you move. Tightness wrinkles appear below the underbust and around the back.
Solution: Let out the side seams on both sides, or grade to a larger size between the underarm and the waist as required. If there is an underarm dart, fold the dart closed before grading. True the side seams. Note that any pieces attached to the waist might also be affected, so adjust the waist on attached skirts or pants as needed.
Narrow Waist
Symptom: The garment looks baggy across the waistline. Loose vertical folds form around the waist in the front and back.
Solution: Take in at the side seams on both front and back, or grade to a smaller size between the underarm and the waist as required. If there is an underarm dart, fold the dart closed before grading. True the side seams. Note that any pieces attached to the waist might also be affected, so adjust the waist on attached skirts or pants as needed.
Now that we have covered some basic alterations, let’s discuss more advanced ones by analyzing the wrinkles and fine-tuning the fit of your bodice.
Please note that the drape of an entire garment is significantly influenced by how it hangs from the shoulders. Therefore, we suggest taking a top-to-bottom approach. Start with the neckline and the shoulders, as these are crucial fitting areas. Focusing on these areas first will influence the overall fit and drape of the garment.
Shoulder Adjustments
Sloping Shoulders
Symptom: The armscye droops or gapes. Wrinkles form diagonally from shoulder to armhole and disappear when the shoulder point is pinched up. Possible tightness under the arm.
Solution:
- Option #1: Pinch the shoulder point as needed to reduce wrinkles. Move the shoulder point down by as much as you pinched. Draw a new shoulder line between the new shoulder point and the side-neck point. True the shoulder seam.
- Option #2: If the underarm feels tight, draw a vertical line from the mid-point of the shoulder and a horizontal line 2” below the armhole notch. Slash the front, the yoke, and the back to create small cuts. Overlap the pieces by moving this section down. True the bottom of the yoke and the top of the back piece. Connect the neck point and the shoulder point.
Square Shoulders
Symptom: The collar or shoulder bone slope is more horizontal than the garment was drafted for and causes the armhole to shift upward. Tight diagonal wrinkles radiate from the shoulder to the bust, shoulder blade and biceps. The shoulder seam and neckline are unsupported by the body and may collapse. The neckline stands away from the neck, and/or horizontal wrinkles form across the upper front and back. The bodice needs more fabric length in the side seam.
Solution:
- Option #1: Pinch the excess at the neck point as needed to reduce wrinkles. Move the shoulder point up by as much as you pinched. Draw a new shoulder line between the new shoulder point and the side-neck point. True the shoulder seam.
- Option #2: If the side seam needs length, move the shoulder point up by as much as you pinched. Draw a new shoulder line between the new shoulder point and the side-neck point. True the shoulder seam.
Forward Shoulders
Symptom: The shoulders of the garment lie behind the shoulder point. Loose wrinkles along the front armhole appear. Tight stress wrinkles form between the back armhole and shoulder blade. Wrinkles at the neckline and back armholes; sleeves wrinkle and feel uncomfortable.
Solution: The shoulder seam needs to be moved down at the front and up at the back by the same amount. Shift the angle of the shoulder seam down at the front and up at the back. Retrace and true the shoulder seams. If the garment has sleeves, move the sleeve notch toward the front of the sleeve (not shown).
Narrow Shoulders
Symptom: The armhole seam hangs too far past the shoulder point. Loose vertical folds appear across the front and back of the chest. The bodice needs less width across the shoulders.
Solution: Draw a vertical line from the mid-point of the shoulder and a horizontal line above the armhole notch. Slash to create small cuts. Overlap, moving the cut horizontally towards the center fold. Join the neck point and the shoulder point. True the armscye. If the garment has sleeves, the sleeve cap will need to be retraced higher to reflect the added ease on the armhole (not shown).
Broad Shoulders
Symptom: The armhole seam curves in towards the center, and the fabric and horizontal stress wrinkles may form across the chest. The garment may feel tight across the front and back.
Solution: The bodice needs more fabric width across the chest and/or upper back. Draw a vertical line from the midpoint of the shoulder and a horizontal line above the armhole notch. Slash to create small cuts. Spread, moving the cut horizontally away from the center fold. Join the neck point and the shoulder point. True the armscye. If the garment has sleeves, the sleeve will need to be slashed vertically and overlapped to reflect the removed ease on the armhole (not shown).
Neckline Adjustments
Narrow Neckline
Symptom: The neckline feels too tight and doesn’t rest on the base of the neck. The bodice might be pulled up. The front pieces show diagonal pulls, and horizontal folds may show at the back.
Solution:
- Option #1: Move the high and low shoulder points slightly away from the center front and center back on the front and back pieces. Ensure the armhole circumference doesn’t change.
- Option #2: Trace a larger size neckline.
Wide Neckline
Symptom: The garment appears too large. The neckline stands below the base of the neck and fits loosely (most commonly at the back). Vertical folds appear at the front and back.
Solution:
- Option #1: Move the high and low shoulder points slightly closer to the center front and center back on the front and back pieces. Ensure the armhole circumference doesn’t change.
- Option #2: Trace a smaller size neckline.
Back Adjustments
Round Upper Back
Symptom: The shoulder seam and front neck pull back, the back neckline pulls down, and the waistline rises at the back. Gaping at the back neckline and wrinkles pulling the shoulders back may also appear.
Solution: Draw a horizontal line above the armhole notch, and a line at a slight angle from the midpoint of the neck to the horizontal. If the fullness is more prominent at the back shoulder blades, the vertical line can be traced at the midpoint shoulder, or refer to slouching alteration. Slash the horizontal cut. Spread the outer cut at the center back, pivoting towards the armhole seam. Slash the vertical and make the back edge parallel to the center back (dotted line). A neckline dart is created, making the dart depth 3”- 4”. Retrace and true the shoulder seams and the armscye.
Slouching Back
Symptom: Symptoms are similar to a rounded upper back, but the back is rounder between the lower shoulder blades. The front armhole position is high, and the front sleeves bunch under the arm.
Solution: Slash a horizontal line at armscye notches on front and back pieces. Overlap the front and spread the back. True the armscye. If the garment has a sleeve, slash the sleeve cap and tilt the cap of the armhole to spread the back and front of the armhole, and overlap the front and the front armhole. True the armhole and the sleeve (not shown).
Erect Back
Symptom: Excess fabric pools across the upper back, creating loose horizontal wrinkles. The back length from neck to waist is too long.
Solution: Pinch the excess fabric on the upper back. Draw a horizontal line above the armhole notch, and a line at a slight angle from the mid-point of the neck to that line. To reduce the fullness at the back shoulder blades, slash and overlap the horizontal cut, angling towards the center back. Slash the diagonal and make the back edge parallel to the center back (dotted line). Retrace and true the neckline and the armscye.
Sway Back
Symptom: Excess fabric pools across the waist, center back, creating loose horizontal folds. The back length at the lower back is too long.
Solution: Pinch the excess fabric on the lower back. Draw a horizontal line above the back waist, slash and overlap the lower section upwards, pivoting at the side seam to reduce back length. Retrace and true the center back, the side seam and the dart.
Narrow Back
Symptom: There is excess fabric at the edges of the upper back, and it’s not needed to move comfortably. Loose vertical wrinkles form at the sides. Check shoulder width before proceeding with this alteration.
Solution: Pinch the excess at the mid-shoulder blade. Cut the back vertically, starting atthe mid-shoulder. Cut horizontally 2” below the armscye. Pivot the cut towards the center back. True the shoulder seam and the side seam.
Wide Back
Symptom: Fabric is tight between the armholes. Horizontal wrinkles appear across the back. Check shoulder width before proceeding with this alteration.
Solution: Cut the pattern horizontally 2” below the seam allowance, and vertically towards the mid-shoulder. Pivot the cut at the shoulder seam to bring the armhole outward and add fullness. True the shoulder seam and the side seam.
Armscye Adjustments
Low Armscye
Symptom: The armhole position is too low and not sitting close enough to the armpit. Loose vertical underarm wrinkles may appear. The waistline may fall lower on the side.
Solution: Slash a horizontal line above the armhole notches, and across the front and the back. Overlap and true the armhole and the sleeve. This alteration will affect the sleeve if there is one (not shown).
High Armscye
Symptom: The armhole position is too high and sits uncomfortably close to the armpit. Tight wrinkles appear under the armpit. The waistline may fall high at the side.
Solution: Slash a horizontal line above the armhole notches, and across the front and the back. Spread and true the armhole. This alteration will affect the sleeve if there is one (not shown).
And we're at the end! Did we miss anything? Let us know in the comments!
ps. If you are looking for princess seam alterations, you can find them here.
