Now that you've had a chance to work on your swatches and figure out your gauge, it's time to finally start knitting and cast on! This is always the most stressful part for me. The beginning of a project always requires the biggest push just to get started, and I constantly worry I haven't cast on enough so I obsessively count all my stitches just to be triple sure I'm not messing anything up.
For a little added stress, the Snoqualmie pattern calls for a tubular cast on. I read over the instructions and was tempted to just write it off and do a more traditional cast on because it was new and a little scary. I then had to give myself my typical "Stop being a lazy jerk and just learn how to do it" pep talk and googled a few tutorials. Once again, the lazy jerk in me has terrible instincts, because this technique is awesome. Or if you prefer, tubular (in the 90s surfer slang sense of the word). Basically, with a tubular cast-on you are making a soft, stretchy seam that flexes with the ribbing, rather than the more rigid long tail cast on. It's also really darn pretty; it has a soft round edge that makes your ribbing look really professional and beautifully made. Tubular!
If you need a little help in addition the written instructions, there is an excellent tutorial here. I also recommend following the pattern direction about using different waste yarn for the initial cast-on. It's a tricky little bit of knitting at the beginning and it's easier to get your stitches going when you have something smooth to slide your needle into. I used a little bit of cotton Wool & The Gang yarn from my stash.
Once I got it going, the tubular cast-on felt familiar to me after knitting socks using Judy's Magic Loop method; it felt just as magical. You only cast on half the stitches you need and then work increases to get the total number. Once you have your final amount of stitches, you alternate knit stitches with slipped yarn to create the tubular shape (which reminded me of the technique I just learned to knit sock heels). After 6 rows, you switch over to regular ribbing. Before doing that you need to rearrange your stitches from 1x1 to a 2x2 formation. I highly suggest following the instructions as written rather than just jumping right in - I had to rip back because I had arranged them in the wrong order. Once the stitches have been re-arranged you're good to just knit your normal rib before you have to switch needle sizes for your cabling (this is where the interchangeable needles rock hard; you only need to change the needle points rather than trying to move everything over to a different circular needle cable. I almost cried the first time I did it).
I waited till my ribbing was done before taking out the waste yarn. Using a pair of sharp scissors, I carefully snipped in between each stitch and gently removed all the short strands.
When you start working on your cables you may want to use safety pins or stitch markers to differentiate your cable columns. I found I didn't really need them once the pattern was established but it may help you at the beginning.
After your ribbing is done it's really just the serious business of working your cables (see the video I made here if you need a little help). I'll check in next week when it's time to start decreasing and shaping the back.
Any ribbing or casting on advice?
I’m also a big fan of the tubular cast-on, and although it’s not strictly necessary, I really think it’d be a shame to skip the nice, squishy hem on such a marshmallow of a sweater.
Just wanted to pipe up with a tip on changing needle sizes – when you’re switching between two different sizes of circulars, you can always just ‘knit on’ to the bigger size needle on the first row. It’s not necessary to transfer all your stitches to the new size first (or swap interchangeable tips), just work right across with the bigger needle in your right hand and the smaller in your left. Your new stitches will be formed around the new/bigger size, so using the old/smaller size in your left hand won’t impact gauge at all – in fact, when knitting in the round with interchangeable tips, you can keep a smaller sized tip on the left side to make cables and other textured stitches slip faster and more easily between needles.
‘I then had to give myself my typical “Stop being a lazy jerk and just learn how to do it” pep talk…’ I’m squirming with recognition at that. My knitting isn’t at this level yet, but I’m enjoying watching the Snoqualmie take shape. Although can someone please put me out of my misery and tell me how to pronounce it?! Snow-kwal-me? Snok-al-me?
Snow. Qual Me. Possibly snowQUALMeee, but probably without accents.
(Twin Peaks reference: wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin_Peaks#Filming_locations)
Thank you! I can relax now…
The tubular cast on was one of the last things I learned in knitting, and wished i had known it sooner. All those sad sweaters that could have used it’s squish goodness.
I am not, repeat NOT, going to reknit them just for that.
Oh hey! I just learned tubular cast on too, but a very different method (no waste yarn and no increases). It does feel a bit like Judy’s Magic cast on doesn’t it? I found this Youtube tute very helpful for the method I did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yE3b4Vq3sJ8
I’ve just got tips…. If you want to use the waste yarn method, a crochet chain should be removable without snipping between each stitch. However, I prefer Ysolda’s Longtail Tubular cast on. There is no waste yarn and it’s wicked easy.