When we were planning samples for the Fran Pajamas we were discussing fabric weights and trying to figure out how heavy they could get. When it came to the top we just kept listing heavier and heavier fabrics until... well, it became a jacket! Amy gave it a shot with her own version to test it out (more on that soon) but when these plush jacquards dropped at Core Fabrics we just knew these had to make an appearance at the photoshoot. We love how substantial and cozy they are and how easy it is to make the top from this pattern feel like a substantial chore jacket. Basically, not only are you getting a long-sleeved shirt and bottoms out Fran, but a third layering piece as well!
There are a few mods we made to adjust the pattern for a thicker fabric so let's get into it!
The most impressive thing about this sample is obviously the pattern matching; our samplemaker Judith did an INCREDIBLE job of placing this print so effectively. But other than taking special care with that, the only other pattern mod we made was to eliminate the back pleat. To do so, simply draw a straight vertical line down from the outer notch on the top of the back pattern piece. This is now the center back line, and you can now cut this piece on the fold to create a back piece without the volume of a back pleat.
This now creates a smooth, flat seam where the back meets the yoke. You can now proceed with sewing the jacket as instructed, but with really thick fabric the burrito method can be challenging with the Fran collar construction. Instead of sandwiching all the seams by machine, we suggest tacking the bottom of the inner yoke in place by hand on the inside using a slip stitch.
We also suggest finishing all the hems with bias tape for a beautiful interior finish – you can then slipstitch or topstitch them in place. You could get super creative with this aspect and choose contrast bias for extra pretty guts. We also omitted the button loop and neck button on this version and opted for bigger wooden buttons.
A note about pockets - we skipped the pockets for this particular jacket, but you could easily use the back pants pocket from Fran to create a patch pocket for your jacket!
We just can't get over how different this pattern looks with just a change of fabric! We put together some other ideas for fabrics here. Twill, denim, corduroy and canvas would all work and give you a totally different look.
If you are looking to recreate this sample EXACTLY (and why wouldn't you?!) Core Fabrics has put together exclusive fabric kits with everything you need to make it, including the bias tape and buttons.
We hope you have fun playing with this pattern to make all the pajamas (and non-pajamas) you can think of! Happy Sewing!