Supplies Archives

Sourcing Interfacing and Supplies for the Jasika Blazer

13 March 2019 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

This week we're talking provisions for your Jasika Blazer, and after discussing fabric, it's time to move on to interfacing and supplies! This part might feel intimidating if you've never done any kind of tailoring before, but I promise everything is relatively easy to source.

First up, interfacing! Because Jasika is designed for speed tailoring methods, we'll be using fusible interfacings to build up the structure and shape of our jackets. The main benefit of this is obviously speed (hence the name!) Traditionally tailored jackets create structure with many layers of sew-in interfacing and tons of hand stitching, and while I have nothing but respect for these methods (I bow down to all bespoke tailors) it makes for a much more laborious and time-consuming project. If you get the taste for tailoring, learning those techniques would definitely be the next stage in your sewing journey. Here's what we'll be using instead.

INTERFACING & SUPPLIES

The Jasika blazer calls for three types of interfacing, all of which *should* be available at a well-stocked fabric store. If not, we'll include lots of online sources in this post, or you can purchase one of our speed tailoring kits that includes all the interfacings you'll need in addition to sleeveheads, shoulder pads and twill tape.

Weft Interfacing: This is knit like interfacing with threads running throughout that is stable on crosswise and lengthwise grain but stretches on the bias. It gives the drape/suppleness of a knit interfacing with more stability. It is what you will use for interfacing the body of the coat. It generally comes in white or black.
Knit Interfacing: Drapeable, soft, lightweight. This is used on the lapel facing and top collar and the flexibility lets it drape nicely over collar and lapel break. It should stretch on crosswise grain (4way stretch works well too). I'm not too fussy about what you use here as long as it is stretchy and flexible.
Horsehair Canvas: This type of interfacing is traditionally made from the mane of horses (no horses are hurt!) but you can also find synthetic varieties. It is firm and supple interfacing we'll be using to create stability at the front shoulder. You only need a very small amount, about 1/4 yard.
Cotton Twill Tape/Stay tape: This will be used to stabilize a few key seams and help us create a beautiful roll line at the lapel. Look for it in widths of 1/4" to 3/8". It should be preshrunk by soaking in warm water and pressed until dry. Similar to this. If you can't find you can try subbing in for cotton ribbon.
Shoulder pads: These are necessary to create the proper shape and structure at the shoulder. We are suggesting pads with a thickness of 1/4" - 3/8" thick, but you can also use 1/2" if that is all you can find. Just note you *may* need to adjust the pitch or angle of the shoulder for a thicker pad. I prefer this professional style of shoulder pad (felt layered with batting and the kind we include in our kit) but these foam pads will also work. Please note you can also use our free shoulder pad pattern to make your own (pattern coming in a week or so, but it is included in our course now).
Sleeveheads: These are critical - they help cushion the armscye seam and create a lovely shape at the shoulder. They can be hard to find commercially, so in a pinch use a 2" strip of lambswool or cotton quilt batting cut on the bias. Or use our free pattern to make one yourself (again pattern coming soon!) Sleeveheads are available on Amazon here.
Lapel button: 1 x 3/4" (19mm). You can use a button with holes or a shank, your choice.
Clear button: This will be used to protect your jacket on the other side of the lapel when you sew on your button.
Two 1 x 15" strips of lightweight cutton or muslin (not shown). These will be used to reinforce the corners of your welt pockets.
Sleeve buttons (optional): 6 x 5/8" (16mm). These are merely decorative so feel free to skip them if you want.
Leather or suede elbow patches (optional): We have pre-cut elbow patches available in our shop or you can cut your own using the included pattern piece. If you use real or faux leather, you should use a leather needle to sew to the sleeve. You can find tips on sewing with leather here.
Polyester thread: High quality only please! I recommend Gutermann or Mettler brands.
Topstitching thread (optional): If you want to add a topstitched detail to your lapel, you can use topstitching thread or just use two spools to thread your needle twice.
Silk thread: For basting and temporary construction, similar to this. This is very smooth thread that does not leave marks on fabric but regular poly thread can be used in a pinch.

TOOLS NEEDED

To get good results tailoring, you need a few key tools. Most of these you probably also have, but you should definitely think about investing in a tailor's ham, seam roll and clapper or point presser if you don't already have it in your toolkit. I promise these are tools you will use again and again!

Sewing machine: The average domestic sewing machine is all you need to sew a tailored blazer - no serger necessary!
Quality iron with good steam: I recommend the Rowenta Focus or a gravity feed like the Silver Star.
Dressmaking shears or rotary cutter: I like these scissors and this rotary cutter.
Pinking shears: These are very important! They will help soften the line of interfacing on partially interfaced pieces so it doesn't show on the right side of the fabric. Something like this.
Pattern weights or pins if you prefer to pin your pattern to fabric. These flat head pins are my favourite because they are easy to pull out while you're sewing.
Sewing machine needles: Choose an appropriate weight for your fabric (I generally go with a 80/12 or 90/14 needle). You should have a finer needle like a 60/8 or 70/10 for your lining. If you are sewing leather elbow patches, you may want to use a leather needle.
Marking tool like a Chaco liner or Tailor's chalk.
Point turner: to help turn the lapel and collar like this.
Hand sewing needles and a thimble: I like these Japanese needles. Running your thread through this wax and then pressing it between paper towels to remove excess wax helps prevent thread snarls. This leather thimble is the best.
Wood clapper for crisp seams or an all in one clapper/point presser for pressing open the small seams around the collar and lapel. This is a vital tool; it is hard to get truly professional looking seams without using a wood clapper to help flatten and "lock" seams in place.
Tailor's ham and seam roll. You can probably get by with just a tailor's ham but I find the seam roll invaluable for pressing open seams without the seam making an impression on the right side of the fabric.
Press cloth: I prefer using silk organza because I can see through, but lightweight cotton or linen also works. You can find inexpensive silk organza at Dharma Trading Company.

INTERFACING & TAILORING SUPPLY SOURCES

Again, our kits include all the interfacing & supplies you need, but you can also find it at the following online stores. I had trouble finding European shops but if you know of more European tailoring supply sources please let me know!

Fashion Sewing Supply (US)- high quality, industry level interfacings.
Black & Sons (US)- amazing tailoring supply resource! Everything you need in one place
Vogue Fabrics (US)- various interfacings
Charles Zarit (US) - interfacing, shoulder pads and general tailoring supplies
Tessuti (Aus) - interfacing, shoulder pads and sleeveheads
Tailor Mouse (UK) - all the tailoring supplies you can imagine!
Minerva Crafts (UK)
English Couture Company (UK) - Interfacing, shoulder pads, fabric
The Lining Company (UK) - Lining fabrics, tailoring supplies
Folhoffer (Germany) - variety of interfacings & tailoring supplies
ACTK Interlinings (Netherlands) - interfacing, interlining, sleeveheads

So that's it! Later this week we'll be covering fitting and making a muslin. Any questions about tools and supplies?

13 Sewing Tools to Splurge On

25 August 2016 by Heather Lou 35 Comments

Sewing can be an expensive hobby. Sure, you can start cheap with a secondhand machine and a basket full of basic supplies, but as you start getting obsessed (it happens, don't fight it), having just the right sewing tool to do the job feels as critical as finding the right school for your kid (you can probably tell I am childless since I am comparing quality scissors with your offspring's education but SCISSORS ARE IMPORTANT). While I could write a comprehensive list of "basics" to stock your sewing arsenal with, instead I thought I'd share my all-around favourite sewing tools; nothing on this list is more than $30, but most of my suggestions are a little more spendy than the cheapest "starter" version. Worth every single penny.

MY FAVOURITE SEWING SCISSORS

I've gone through so many pairs of scissors since I started sewing. I've worked my way through a few brands, trying to find the ultimate pair. While Ginghers are beautiful (especially my gold handled pair) they simply can't compete with the smooth, perfection of LDH shears. They might not look as cute in Instagram photos but they are lightweight, sharp as hell and cut through everything from denim to silk like a whisper in the night. Oh, and Canadian!

A new to me cutting discovery is applique or duckbill scissors, which I use exclusively for grading seams. The curved blade keeps your seam allowances separated making it very easy to trim them down one at a time; these are one of those things I put off buying for a long time but I am kicking myself for not having a pair on hand when I was sewing a million Clare Coat samples and grading seams until my eyeballs bled.

HAND SEWING TOOLS

I used to loathe hand sewing. You'd be in the home stretch of whatever beautiful party dress you were making and then realize that a circle skirt needs to be hemmed by hand. Cue Sad Charlie Brown music. But it doesn't have to be that way! Armed with the right tools hand sewing is not an exercise in frustration but a peaceful, meditative activity to enjoy while binge-watching Stranger Things on Netflix.

Invest in a great set of hand sewing needles; I prefer Japanese ones like these ones from Tulip (they just sew so smooth!) If you really want to treat yourself, get yourself a big puck of beeswax to run your threads through as well. It will last your entire lifetime and prevents your thread from snarling. Finally, a soft leather thimble like this one from Clover is much more comfortable to wear than those metal ones which get all sweaty and smell bad (er, just me?)

SEWING TOOLS BASICS

If you are currently using those cheap pins with the little metal points at the end I implore you to throw the evil monstrosities in the garbage and shell out a few more bucks for glass head pins. Seriously. Do it now, I'll wait. Any brand will do, just make sure they're glass and not plastic (which melt under the iron) and enjoy not losing your pins and hurting your fingers pushing them in. While you're at it, invest in a magnetic pin cushion; these colourful ones from Zirkel are my favourite - so cute! It streamlines your sewing since you're not constantly jabbing things in a pin cushion, and you can sweep it over your table and floor when you're done to catch any strays.

I have tried absolutely every marking tool on the planet and nothing, NOTHING, beats Clover chaco liners. They leave crisp, easy to see marks which brush off easily. I use mine literally every day.

Finally, I just discovered a great application for this little craft scalpel I've had forever. Instead of cutting out paper patterns, I just lay the sheet flat on my cutting mats and run the scalpel around my size. Sooooo much faster than cutting patterns out with paper scissors!

SHIRTMAKING SUPPLIES

I know I've sung the glories of both of these tools before but seriously. The. Best. If you've made a few shirts and are anything like me you a) completely ignore suggested button placement and b) hate measuring button locations evenly. This expandable gauge takes all the work out of that equation. You just pull it apart your preferred amount and boom, even spacing (it's also super handy for marking pleats, FYI). Also of crucial importance is a buttonhole cutter. So much faster and safer than using a seam ripper to open up buttonholes - never accidentally fray your buttonhole again!

SKETCH IT OUT

I don't know what I would do without my Fashionary. I am a terrible drawer but I love sketching out ideas. I like doing big brain dumps of pattern ideas and variations in these sketchbooks - I even have travel size ones I always carry in my purse in case I get inspired on the street. One of my favourite things to do with mine is to participate in Project Runway challenges. I sketch quick ideas of what I would do if Tim only gave me 15 minutes to sketch. As for drawing tools, Pilot Frixion pens are the absolute jam. It's a smooth gel pen that is completely erasable; no more wimping around with pencils, worried about making a mistake AND they do double duty as a marking tool on fabric since they completely disappear under the iron!

What is the sewing tool you can't live without?

Sourcing Jean-Making Hardware and Supplies | Ginger Jeans Sewalong

4 November 2014 by Heather Lou 21 Comments

Hola amigas! Today we are talking denim supplies. You could probably make a basic pair of jeans with what you currently have in your sewing arsenal, but there are a few tools and additional pieces of hardware that makes the process a little easier, and your jeans a little more professional looking.

THE BASICS

Rotary Cutter - you can totally use a pair of shears for this pattern (especially if you're tracing your pieces before cutting) but when I'm feeling lazy I use my beloved Olfa Cutter.
Glass Head Pins - you will do a lot of pinning with Ginger and it helps to have pins you can iron over without fear.
Marking tool - my preferred method for cutting this pattern is tracing around the pieces with this amazing Clover chaco pen. It has a little serrated wheel inside it and it's the easiest way I've found to make pronounced (but washable) markings.
Denim needles - having a few of these is a lifesaver in case you break some. You can use heavier weight universal needles, but denim needles are specifically designed to sew through heavy twill. I use size 16, but if you're sewing a super heavy duty denim you're better off with size 18. You can also buy denim double needles, but they are pretty pricey and you'll cry if they break. I prefer just taking the time to sew two rows of topstitching.
Shears - nice and sharp to prevent fraying!

THE EXTRAS

Tailor's Clapper- this is a tiny, unassuming miracle. I wish I'd bought mine years ago - it really makes the most beautiful, flat seams. After you're done pressing a seam, you hold the clapper on it - it locks all the moisture and heat into the fabric. It's especially helpful sewing jeans since your seams can get quite bulky, but I also use my clapper in my daily sewing practice. You can also DIY your own with a scrap of hardwood.
Hump jumper- this little piece of plastic looks weird and has a silly name, but I use it all the time when I am sewing over thick bumpy areas like belt hooks or side seams. As you are approaching a "level change", you put the hump jumper under the back of your presser foot to lift the foot to the same height as whatever you are sewing over. After you sew past the high point, you slide the hump jumper out. You can also use a folded piece of cardboard in a pinch.
Presser feet - Full disclosure, I use my regular foot for all topstitching, so there is no need to buy additional ones. However, if you have an edgestitch foot, you can use the central guide to help keep your lines straight. You'll also need a zipper and buttonhole foot.
Awl - another indispensable general purpose tool I wish I had much earlier. This is a sharp, pointed tool that makes perfect holes for your denim buttons and rivets. You can also use a hammer and nail, but I think this is a more elegant solution.
Point turner- really helpful when you are trying to make even corners on your waistband.

ZIPPER

You definitely want to source an all metal denim zipper for your Gingers. Regular zippers are just not strong enough and will inevitably break under their denim burden.

Denim zippers generally come in two gauges - #4.5 and #5. The #4.5 is slightly lighter weight and may also be called a metal pants zipper. I used YKK zippers exclusively so I can't say if it's the same with other companies, but the #4.5 may also have a narrower zipper tape. Unless you are sewing with denim over 12oz, you are fine to use the #4.5. I prefer it because the zipper pull is less bulky and the narrower tape makes it easier to line up with your enter front seam when you install the fly front.

THREAD

I prefer Guterman topstitching thread since they have so many colour options, but any good quality topstitching thread will do. I would get at least 200 yards just to be safe. I've seen some great jeans that use two alternating colours for the topstitching, so buy a few hues if you want to personalize your jeans a little more.

You'll also need a spool of regular thread to match your denim for sewing all the seams. If you are serging your seams, I recommend using a fun colour in your serger. It's a nice detail that only you can see.

JEANS BUTTONS

Jeans buttons are a very durable pants closure. You create a hole in your waistband to put the metal post into. You then hammer the button into place. You should be able to find these at your local chain fabric store, but they generally only carry the plastic ones, which are cheap and not meant to last. I highly suggest you get some all metal buttons - I will provide sources further down in the post. Finishes are generally nickel, brass or copper.

RIVETS

Rivets are awesome. They help strengthen seams at points of stress, and make your handmade jeans look really professional. They are also really fun to install. There are generally two kinds: ring and nipple. Unless you have a rivet press, I would not suggest using nipple rivets. They are hard to install without special equipment. Ring rivets, however, can be installed using nothing but a hammer and cast iron frying pan (as we will see later).

Depending on where you buy your rivets, the backs will be either a hollow or solid metal post. I prefer the solid posts since they are easier to cut down to match the thickness of your denim. If you are planning on installing rivets you'll also have to pick up a wire cutter to trim them down.

Most of the sources below are for commercial quality hardware. You can also buy the kits at your local fabric store but I've never used them so I don't how the quality compares.

RIVET AND DENIM BUTTON SOURCES

- Tailor Taylor - this is a great source for all of your denim making needs; Tailor also carries zippers and topstitching thread. I've ordered rivets and buttons here and can vouch for the excellent quality.
- Cast Bullet - I haven't personally ordered from this company but I've heard great things about the quality. Lots of finish options.
- Grommet Mart - only for bulk orders but they also carry machines to install rivets and buttons.
- Thread Theory - They stock two different hardware and zipper kits - I love the colours!
- M. Recht (AUS) - This company has a great selection of rivets and buttons.
- Jaycotts (UK) - Kits only.
- Minerva Crafts (UK) - Kits only.

If you’d like more help sewing professional looking jeans, consider taking our online video class. The Sew Your Dream Jeans Workshop will give you the tools and techniques to design, sew, and wear your very own custom pair of jeans with confidence.

SIGN UP FOR JEAN-MAKING WORKSHOP

Understanding and Buying Denim Fabric | Ginger Jeans Sewalong

3 November 2014 by Heather Lou 54 Comments

I truly believe jeans get an unfair rep for being "scary" to make. The reality is, if you can sew a straight line, you can make jeans. You don't need a fancy machine or years of experience and chances are you already have a lot of what you need to get started. In this post, we'll be covering a bit of jeans history before we jump into where to source denim for sewing your own Ginger Jeans.

Jeans History

Jeans have a fascinating origin. They were invented by Levi Strauss during the California Gold Rush in the 19th century. He was an entrepreneurial genius - he saw the need for durable, rugged work wear that could withstand the rigors of gold mining, and developed most of the typical details we equate with jeans; metal rivets, functional pockets, durable topstitching and bar tacks at areas that see a lot of stress. The first jeans were made from a cotton canvas called "serge de Nîmes" which Strauss imported from France and dyed a deep indigo (de Nîmes = denim, get it?)

Even after the Gold Rush ended, jeans remained a part of the American lexicon - they became the uniform of cowboys and working men, a symbol of sweat and hard work. It wasn't until the 1950's that jeans came to signify something else; with the advent of youth culture and rock and roll, jeans became rebellious. Wearing a pair was a way to subvert the conformity expected at the time. It was the fashion choice of beatniks, punks, musicians and later, hippies and feminists.

Over time, jeans have become an irrevocable part of American fashion. I would argue that they may be the most iconic stylistic innovation to ever emerge from the US, and they are now worn every day by every imaginable sector of society. They are no longer a symbol of non-conformity, but they are still one of the most functional and stylish articles of clothing we can choose to put on in the morning.

In the late 70's, a designer named Peter Golding started blending denim with lycra. Adding stretch to denim made it possible to create a much tighter, more body conscious fit, and his innovation sparked a revolution in denim that eventually led to jeggings, which is a boon or a bane depending on your point of view. Most women's jeans now include some degree of lycra, which is what we'll be looking for when sourcing fabric for our Ginger Jeans.

Stretch Denim for Ginger

You can make your Gingers from any stretch woven fabric - if it contains lycra it will work, although a higher percentage of lycra means you will likely have to go down a size. I am going to focus on actual denim since it's become a bit of an obsession of mine over the past few months.

Any stretch denim will work for this pattern. Two percent lycra is the ideal ratio. One percent will work as well, although they may not have quite as much give. I've also made pairs with upwards of 10% lycra, although I had to go down a size or two in the hips and legs. You're looking for denim that has approximately 15-20% crosswise stretch - if it has more or less you will likely be modifying the sizing. Although most of us generally dislike polyester, seeing it in denim is actually not a bad thing. It helps prevent it from stretching out too much with wear.

Here's the thing about denim; it stretches out. It just does. It's in the nature of the twill weave to relax over time. You can get around it a little by sourcing really high quality denim which will stretch less, but no pair of jeans, no matter what it's made of, will look exactly the same 12 hours after you started wearing them. If you want a super snug fit, make a size smaller. The waistband should be snug without creating crazy muffin top, and the legs should fit very close to the skin. These will relax over the day into a more natural fit. The Ginger Jeans run on the generous side to accommodate as many bodies and types of denim available, but going down a size is suggested if you want to minimize stretching.

When sourcing your denim, some retailers will list the weight of denim. I suggest using 7-12 oz denim for your Gingers. Lighter, drapier denims should only be used for the skinny leg version - you want something with a little more heft if you are making the stovepipe leg. Anything over 12oz may be too thick for this pattern - since the cut is so closefitting, you want to be able to move around!

Whatever you use, if it's your first time making the pattern I highly suggest making a muslin. Ordering a few extra yards for this purpose is wise.

Understanding Denim Weave

Traditional fabric is woven using a 1x1 ratio, which means there is one weft for every warp thread. Denim twill uses a 2x1 or 3x1 ratio, which means there are more warp threads for every weft thread (generally the 3x1 is for denim above 10.5oz ). The weave is staggered to create the diagonal pattern you probably equate with denim.

The most common weave is Right Hand Twill. This creates a diagonal pattern that starts in the bottom left and moves up to the top right. Less common is Left Hand Twill, where the diagonal starts in the bottom right and moves up to the top left of the fabric.

If you come upon a denim that doesn't have this diagonal pattern, it is called broken twill. The diagonal threads alternate to create a zig zag pattern. Why is this important? Broken twill was developed to prevent leg twist. While there are ways to cut your pieces to minimize this phenomenon with traditional denim, a broken twill will not twist around your leg since it doesn't have the mechanical weave pulling it in any one particular direction.

Occasionally you may come across the term "slub" denim. This means that the warp thread is not an even thickness throughout, and creates a textured finish in the denim.

Most commercially available denim comes undistressed - if you want to add some dimension to your jeans you'll have to do it yourself. I'll be covering this in the sewalong!

Sourcing Denim Fabric

The best quality denim in the world comes from Japan, Italy, and Turkey. Most American mills are now closed with the vast majority of denim being produced overseas. Unfortunately, most fabric stores don't list the source but smaller retailers may be able to tell you where their denim comes from. If you can't identify where it comes from, I wouldn't lose too much sleep over it. Try to find something that has decent recovery and you should be okay. If you can get your hands on the denim in person, try tugging and pulling on it. If it more or less springs back to it's original shape, it means the recovery is good. Cheaper quality denim is likely to bag out at the knee and may stretch with wear. If this is what you're working with, you may want to go down a size in anticipation.

Where to Buy Denim Fabric

Our sister brand Core Fabrics always has a wide variety of denim fabrics in stock. I personally hand-pick each denim we carry based on quality and the mill that produced it so you can always count on excellent quality from us.

Caring For Denim

You definitely want to pre-wash your denim before you cut out your pieces. You want to remove the chemical sizing and soften up the fabric - it's often quite stiff off the roll. If you plan on putting your finished jeans in the dryer, you should dry your denim to pre-shrink them as much as possible BUT.... keep in mind that heat is the enemy of lycra. If you want your jeans to last as long as possible, you should air dry them whenever possible.

Wash the raw denim with a cup of vinegar to prevent bleeding. You should also add vinegar to each wash for your completed pairs. And ix-nay on the fabric softener - it's really hard on the lycra. If you want to preserve the dye, try not to wash them too frequently and when you do, turn them inside out. I try to get at least 4 wears out of my jeans before washing them. If you want to be really hardcore about it, you can throw them in the freezer whenever they get stinky.

Finally, I read an interview with a Levi's designer who said she put baby oil on her legs every time she wore her jeans. It apparently gives them a sheen over time - something to try!

If you’d like more help sewing professional-looking jeans, consider taking our online video class. The Sew Your Dream Jeans Workshop will give you the tools and techniques to design, sew, and wear your very own custom pair of jeans with confidence.

SIGN UP FOR JEAN-MAKING WORKSHOP

Nettie Sewalong Pt 2 - Supplies

7 May 2014 by Heather Lou 13 Comments

Hi everyone! I hope Sunday’s post on the best fabric for your Nettie was helpful. Sewing with knits is a breeze when you have the right choice for your project!

Today I want to talk about the various bits and bobs you may need to gather. Many of these are totally optional – it would be entirely possible to make a Nettie dress or bodysuit with nothing but your fabric and some thread, but sometimes the extra details make your garments extra special.

BALL POINT NEEDLES

If you are sewing a Nettie on a regular machine, you absolutely (no ifs ands or buts!) need a needle designed for knits. Sharp needles are designed to pierce woven fabric; ball point needles slide in between the knit fibers and help your machine catch the bobbin thread.

You may see ballpoint needles called "Stretch" or "Jersey" needles. If you are using ballpoint needles and still having issues with skipped stitches, it may be the kind of ball-point needle. I remember having issues sewing my first Bombshells with "jersey" needles. I switched to a different brand "stretch" needle, and bingo, problem solved.

TWIN NEEDLES (OPTIONAL)

I recently started working a lot with twin needles. I had it in my head that they were a pain in the butt to thread and was finishing all my seams with a zigzag stitch out of pure laziness. And then I actually looked at my instruction manual and realized threading a twin needle was easy as pie. And the result is SO much more professional looking! When you sew with a twin needle, the top side will look like two parallel rows of neat straight stitches - the underside will be zigzagged. It mimics a coverstitch and takes your knit garments from the homemade zone to the "YOU MADE THAT?" stratosphere.

Again, it's important to get a twin needle designed for stretch fabrics. They come in different widths, but for Nettie, I prefer a very narrow stitch. A distance of 2-3mm between the needles makes a nice, small stitch detail. Marie at A Stitching Odyssey wrote a great post explaining how double needles work. There are also some gems of advice in the comments section if you are having trouble getting a nice stitch on your machine. Don't be intimidated by the double needle! It is your friend!

MARKING TOOL AND MEASURING TAPE

A nice chalk marking tool is indispensable for marking notches! I'm in love with these Clover ones. A flexible measuring tape is also great for measuring your curved seams.

SNAPS FOR THE BODYSUIT (OPTIONAL)

If you’re like me with baskets of random sewing equipment everywhere, chances are you already have some snaps somewhere in your stash. You want metal snaps, not plastic. They grip much better – plastic ones are a little flimsy and tend to pop open which is not ideal (unless that is the effect you’re going for!) I’ve used a variety of sizes, although I would avoid anything too tiny. The size is less important than the strength of the snap – you’ll be sewing 3 down which is surprisingly strong.

You may also choose to use hammer-on snaps. This is totally up to you! They can be a pain in the caboose to install sometimes, but if you're not down with watching Downton Abbey while hand sewing 6 individual snaps down, you can choose your own adventure.

LINING FOR THE SNAP CROTCH (OPTIONAL)

You really only need a few small scraps for the snap crotch lining. It can be any material, as long as it’s lightweight (your crotch area is not really the place you want a lot of bulk!) I like using crepe de chine, rayon bemberg, or lightweight cotton. Whatever you have laying around will work.

WOOLY NYLON THREAD

If you'll be making Nettie with your serger, you may want to pick up some wooly nylon thread. You can use it in both loopers, although I use it just in the upper looper since I don't have more than one in any colour. It makes a much softer, stretchier seam. I definitely notice a difference in seam stretchiness if I just use poly serger thread. It's a little pricey but a great investment!

SHOULDER STABILIZER

You want to stabilize those shoulder seams! The Nettie needs the structure – it’s such a stretchy design, your shoulder seams will look terrible in the long run without something helping them to stay put.

Almost anything can be used for stabilizer. Twill tape, bias tape, clear elastic, heavy ribbon, a piece of selvedge, stay tape. My preferred stabilizer is clear elastic – it’s nice and thin and doesn’t bulk up your seams.

ELASTIC FOR THE SHELF BRA (OPTIONAL)

If you're going to be adding a shelf bra, I recommend 1/2" wide elastic. However, I recently used 3/8" swimwear elastic (the beige cotton stuff) and it had GREAT support, so that works too if you've got some in the stash.

ELASTICS FOR HACKING YOUR NETTIE! (OPTIONAL)

The Nettie's neck and leg openings are bound using the same fabric you're making it with. It's a clean finish (and cheap)! Some of you mavericks may want to play around with different finishes though.

You can substitute your Nettie fabric binding with lace elastic, lingerie elastic or fold over elastic - all have different effects. Lace is soft and romantic (and will look completely invisible under clothing). Lingerie elastic will let you make the bottom a little tighter and maybe add a little detail if you have one with pretty trim. Fold over elastic is super clean and let's you play with contrasting colour effects. PLEASE keep in mind that if you use FOE or lingerie elastic you will have to add a little to the seam allowances at your leg openings since you won't be adding a binding. Your crotch panel will be too narrow as is.

HEATHER'S BONUS LIST OF SUPER AWESOME KNIT MIRACLE-MAKERS

If you like sewing with knits, I have a few tools I would like to recommend. We all know sewing can be an expensive hobby once you get going (SO MANY BERNINA FEET, SO LITTLE TIME) but the following tools will make your life so much easier. And your knit garments so much prettier.

WALKING FOOT

Depending in your machine, this may be a bit of an investment. My Bernina one was quite pricey, but worth every penny. Fear not though; you can get generic walking feet for your Singer or Janome or what-have-you on the internet or at any good sewing machine service centre. I picked one up for my old machine for around $25.

Why the hard sell? These little marvels of engineering feed the top and bottom fabric through your machine at an even speed, preventing rippled or stretched seams. They make matching stripes a joy. A JOY I SAY. There is a great post here that shows how these work. A walking foot is not a requirement for making Nettie, but it certainly helps!

QUILTING RULER, ROTARY CUTTER, CUTTING MAT & PATTERN WEIGHTS

I used to despise cutting patterns out. The pins and the scissors and the slippery fabric and the tediousness of it... oy vey. And then I discovered rotary cutters. And life was forever changed.

Now, it takes me mere minutes to cut out a Nettie (or anything for that matter). I picked up a box of heavy flat washers from Home Depot for around $10 and use those to weigh my patterns down on top of a large self-healing cutting mat (I paid approximately $30 for mine - I like one that is at least 24" x 36"). With a good quality rotary cutter, it takes hardly anytime at all to cut out your pieces! Your edges are much cleaner and your back hurts less. I have a few rotary cutters in different sizes because I am a gadget monster but you can get a small 28mm Olfa (the best brand I've found) for under $20. Like this one here. The smaller blade makes it easy to get around the tight corners of the Nettie neckline.

I recently picked up a quilting ruler and they, ahem, rule. If you are using fabric binding, a nice strong grid ruler is a big help to cut them out.

Ooookay. I think that about covers anything you might want to gather before we start the sewalong! Again, a lot of this stuff is optional (but will make your life just a little easier).

Mark your calenders for May 19th. We'll start the official Nettie sewalong then. I am hoping to include some hacking tutorials as well. I have an idea for a Nettie swimsuit that could be killer.

I have started a flickr group where folks can upload their finished makes. I would like to host a giveaway at the end for a Girl Charlee gift certificate (hence why I've been asking you to make first time purchases through this link - someone is going to get a big ol' bag of internet loot in June!)

Have a great week friends! I'm super excited to share a By Hand London tutorial this Thursday for Sewing Indie Month!