Nettie Pattern Archives

How To Sew Knit Binding On A V Or Mitered Neckline

23 July 2015 by Heather Lou 8 Comments

I recently discovered a love for knit bindings, spurred after admiring a lovely dress made by Kay the Sewing Lawyer. It's great when you want a simple, narrow finish on knit garments but don't need a lot of stretch. I had a hard time finding any tutorials for binding a v-neck, but worked it out after emailing with Amy about it (one of my favourite people to nerd out about sewing esoterica with).

In yesterday's post on hacking the Sallie jumpsuit into a romper, I explained the changes you must make to the pattern in order to remove the lining. The lining is convenient because it encloses all of your raw seams; if you're going to forgo it, you'll need to use a neckline binding instead. In this tutorial, I am using the kimono tee as an example, but it can also be used on the tank variation. In that case, sew the front and back V first. The side bindings should be extra long so they can become the shoulder straps. You can see what I mean by checking out Amy's version here.

First step: sew and stablilize your shoulder seams with some clear elastic or stay tape. Press the seams to the back.

For reinforcement, sew a short line of stitches around the pointed V seam allowance . Clip at the V without cutting your stitches.

Measure your complete neck opening to get your binding length (plus seam allowance x 2). The width of the binding will be your seam allowance x 4. In the case of the Sallie, the total width of the binding will be 1 1/2" (37mm).

Starting at the back shoulder, pin the binding to the neckline, right sides together.

Start sewing the band to the neckline along the seam allowance. Use a walking foot if you have one, and don't stretch the fabric as you sew. When you get to the V, straighten out the fabric so that the V notch lines up with the binding. As you get to the clipped portion, ensure you are catching the bodice fabric as you sew the binding.

Continue sewing all the way around, repeating the above step when you get to the front V. When you come back to where you started, you may fold over one of the seam allowances to enclose the raw edge, but to reduce bulk I just left the seam flat since knit doesn't unravel. Your neckline will look something like this:

Fold the binding over the seam you just sewed and press it flat all the way around.

Fold the binding over again so that it neatly encloses your seam, and press flat all the way around. Try to keep the width of the binding consistent.

Pin the binding into place. I am leaving the inside edge raw because knits don't unravel, but feel free to serge it if it bugs you.

To sew the binding into place, stitch in the ditch along the entire neckline on the right side of the garment, making sure are catching the raw edge of the binding beneath. Stitching in the ditch means you are sewing right in between the binding and the bodice; it's almost invisible when done carefully.

The binding is now sewn to the bodice all the way around. You'll notice that the V neckline is now curved instead of mitered.

In order to create a nice crisp V, fold the bodice in half (right sides together). The binding will be sticking out a little bit. Sew a short straight line along that little triangle, backstitching on either end of the stitch line.

Press the neckline flat. You now have a lovely binded V neckline! Your shoulder straps will now have to be sewn on rather than sewn in between the bodice and lining. Sew two short lines along the binding to precent the straps from flipping out.

Obviously this technique can be used on any knit pattern - try it in lieu of a knit band on your Nettie bodysuit!

Hacking Nettie - Off the Shoulder Nettie Dress

19 May 2015 by Heather Lou 54 Comments

I love a good pattern hack; there are few things more satisfying in my sewing practice than taking a pattern I already know and love and turning it into something dramatically different with a few swipes of the Sharpie. Even better when the pattern in question is one of my own.

The inspiration for hacking this off-the-shoulder Nettie dress came from a weird source; a vintage 90's Kathy Ireland for Butterick pattern. I bought it a while back from a thrift store but discovered the pattern tissue was missing once I got it home. I never threw out the envelope (you know you're hoarding patterns when.....) and stumbled on it again a few weeks ago. Around this time someone asked for a tutorial on shoulder hacking Nettie so I finally got on it. And in so doing, discovered a body part I don't generally think very much about. Well hello clavicle! Meet the world!

I'm going to talk about the process in a tutorial later this week, but needless to say, chopping the shoulders off this pattern is a super easy modification (one more reason to love knits - it's so easy to get creative with a good base!) I used a beefy textured double knit in a - let's be honest - rather crazy print, and drafted the skirt to have more of an A-line shape. The result is a surprisingly structured cocktail dress that makes me feel like the walking x-ray of a cyborg skeleton. In a good way.

I think I knocked this out in under 2 hours, including goofing around with pattern placement which was HIGHLY enjoyable. Sometimes you just need to have a sense of humour about the location of your baby maker.

The guts are all serged and the hem was finished with a double needle. And to be honest? It was fun to play with this pattern again. Sometimes I get burned out by my own designs after testing and sample-making for months on end, so it was nice to return to this little lady and rediscover my love for her. And I forgot how much I love golden hour in this gorgeous, spring-drunk city..... No more white studio walls for the foreseeable future!

Back later this week with a tutorial for shoulder hacking Nettie yourself!

Details: Nettie dress pattern with modifications, MAC Ruby Woo lipstick, double pearl earrings (similar here), Aldo platforms

Nettie Sewalong Pt 10: Hacking A Swimsuit

10 June 2014 by Heather Lou 23 Comments

I know we technically finished our sewalong last week, but I was fussing around with a quick and dirty Nettie-to-bikini hack and I figured some of you ladies may want to do the same.

Converting this pattern is fairly straight forward - Nettie is a pretty basic leotard block and as such can be a good base for some good old-fashioned creative license. To get started you'll need a yard each of swimsuit fabric and lining. The great folks over at Girl Charlee (rapidly becoming my most frequented online store) sent over some fabrics for me to play with. They are expanding their swim lycra offerings and have some really cute prints right now I haven't seen anywhere else. I used this print for the front, this plain black lycra for the back, and this milliskin for the lining. I had never worked with milliskin before; I'm used to a more lightweight swimwear lining, but this stuff worked really well. It didn't bulk anything up at all and adds great coverage. I would suggest using a skin tone for lighter prints though.

First things first: we need to modify the pattern. If you've made a Nettie already, you can try it on and use it as a guide to decide how long you want your top and briefs. This is for my hairdresser (we barter clothes for service a few times a year). She has a very long torso so I had to guess where to cut things. I suspect I will have to trim the bottoms a bit at the waist once she has a chance to try it on.

Once you decide where your cut line will be on your pattern piece, you'll want to add about 3/4" to the width of the crotch seam, unless you want to use fabric binding like a regular Nettie which is totally an option. I wanted to experiment with elastic instead so I had to ensure the crotch was wide enough. The same principle applies for the leg openings. Since we'll be folding elastic into the fabric, you'll want to add a little bit to your seams - in this case I just traced the opening for one size larger. Additionally, you may want to move the crotch seam back. The Nettie crotch seem is a little forward for ease of unsnapping, but with the swimsuit you'll want to hide the seam. I added an inch to the front crotch and subtracted an inch from the back.

For the top, I suggest using the scoop front/medium back variation. I thinned out the straps a little but you could leave them as if you want something with a little more heft. You'll also want to drop the arm opening about an inch so you have a little bit more room under your armpits.

These are the essential changes I made to the front pattern piece (for a size 8). The same mods will have to be made to the back, but keep in mind you'll be subtracting a little from your back crotch seam.

Once you pattern has been traced with the above modifications, it's time to cut out your fabric. Once again, I recommend using a rotary cutter - swimwear lycra is really slippery and it helps make the job much easier. Cut one each of the front and back in your fabric and lining.

Baste your lining to your fabric pieces using a narrow zig zag or a long straight stitch (you can remove it later). Zig zag or serge your leg openings closed if you've added a lining. We'll then be sewing the bottoms together at the side and crotch seams using a serger or narrow zig zag stitch.

For your top, baste the lining to the fabric at the side and shoulder seams. Serge or zig zag your arm and neck openings and along the bottom seam of your top.

Now you can sew your neck and front pieces together at the side and shoulder seams.

Once you've got your top and bottom assembled, it's time to add elastic. Make sure you use elastic made for swimwear - the regular polyester stuff breaks down in chlorine. For the first step you will be using a wide zig zag stitch to secure it the wrong side of the fabric. I did this mostly by feel since I'm very comfortable sewing in elastic after I don't know how many Bombshells. For the bottoms, you need hardly any stretch at the waist. Just very gently pull your elastic as your are zigzaging it down to the fabric.

At the legs, you want some stretch around the crotch area so you don't have any gaping. I gave the elastic a very subtle stretch along the outside of the legs; as I approached the crotch I stretched it approximately 15%. If you stretch the elastic the same amount around the whole leg opening it will cut into your skin. You can see below that is only really stretched around the crotch area (hence the ripples).

Once you've secured it down, flip the elastic to the inside and use a medium zig zag stitch to topstitch it into place. Sew close to the edge of the elastic so it doesn't flip up on you.

Bottoms done!

For the top, I would only use a very subtle amount of stretch along the arm and neck openings. Again, skin digging is no fun. I would add that 15% back into the bottom though, as you want the seam under your bust to stay nice and secure. No lost bikini tops on the waterslide, please!

And that's it! Normally this is something I would cover over several posts so feel free to comment below if you have further questions. I tried the top on and it is SUPER cute and I think my hairdresser will be super happy when she gets her new bikini. Which is good because the grey is starting to come in pretty hot and heavy and it might be time to start dying this mane....

Nettie Sewalong Pt 3: Outfit Inspiration & Pattern Hacking

19 May 2014 by Heather Lou 40 Comments

How to wear a bodysuit? Children of the 90's will remember pairing them with overalls (one strap undone, natch) or with a pair of Guess mom jeans. Probably with a Blossom hat and/or a scrunchie. But that was then. This is now.

(Sources above: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 )

Why not pair one with a full circle skirt for a flirty French vibe? Baguette optional. The braver among us may reach for something slightly sheer (I still pine for a skirt Elisalex made years ago). Paired with a maxi it's covered up and sexy simultaneously, and it's a sleeker alternative to a t-shirt when paired with jeans. I've been wearing mine with high-waisted, wide legged Katherine Hepburn pants to the office.

bodysuit inspiration, how to wear a bodysuit — *Sources: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6*

I'm really excited to see how people modify and hack this pattern. Why not mix a solid body with lace sleeves? Or line the lace and blow minds like Maddie in her cream beauty. Cut a clean line off the top and show off your shoulders. Play with seam lines and add a sheer mesh panel. Combine several fabrics for colour blocking fun. Embellish with applique or beading. Divide the Nettie in half for a fun swimsuit, something By Hand London showed in their Sewing Indie hack last week. The option to make a marijuana print 2 piece is completely up to you (ask Oona to tell you the story about accidentally buying 2 yards of the aforementioned fabric, thinking its was just pretty leaves).

I'm loving these back hack variations. Add cutouts, a sliver of mesh, sweet bows or buttons, or drop the back even lower for some drama-rama.

And then there were crop tops. I seriously can't get enough of these right now. Cut Nettie off at the waist and you have the perfect summer top to pair with high waisted skirts or pants. That little sliver of exposed skin is surprisingly flattering on a wide range of figures; seductive without trying too hard.

ed: Deepika from Pattern Review just mentioned to me that the Nettie would make a great sari top! I really hope I get to see Nettie paired with some extravagant Indian textiles....

The Nettie dress will be fun to play with too. If you're a little shy in a bodycon silhouette, use a thicker ponte or double knit - they're surprisingly forgiving. Clingier knits glide over the body if you're wearing a slip. Go from Sunday casual to bombshell by playing with length, fabric and styling. I love the idea of using swimsuit lyrca or sequins for something evening approriate; striped cotton is perfect for day.

I hope this gives you some ideas for making Nettie your own. I'll be back in a few days with some instructions on choosing your size and making pattern adjustments. Have a great week!

Bikini Mash-Up: Bombshell & Nettie Bodysuit

8 May 2014 by Heather Lou 11 Comments

Hi y'all! Today I'm so excited to share a mind boggling awesome tutorial from my babes at By Hand London for Sewing Indie Month. I'm sorry if my gushiness about this company borders on the obscene; I can't help it. I don't just love what they do; I love who they are. Their designs speak to me on a deep "I never knew I wanted that but now I can't imagine a world without it" level. Their evolution and growth as a company, from indie start-up designers into their exciting new role as digital fabric printers is just...inspirational. So I'm happy to let Elisalex hijack my blog today. She basically threw my patterns into a blender and made a tropical margarita and I am LOVING it!

Aloha Closet Cores! First and foremost, I have to express what a deep and monumental pleasure it is to be gracing Heather-Lou’s pages, pages of which - and I know I also speak for the other BHL gals, Charlotte and Victoria - I have been a devout follower of since what feels like the beginning of sewing time. I’ll even go as far as to say that Heather-Lou is the stuff girl crushes are made of.

(editors note: I'm sorry if anyone is barfing right now. This is what happens when potential BFFs IRL are separated by oceans. It's gushy and blushy.)

Those of you familiar with us at By Hand London will know just how much we enjoy a good pattern hacking sesh. Dreaming up infinite possibilities from one given design is probably what fascinates us most about sewing. So, to celebrate Sewing Indie Month, and to welcome in the Summer (hurry up Summer!), we have for you a tropical Closet Core pattern hack that’ll have you running for the first flight to Mexico - The Miss Nettie Bombshell two-piece!

WHAT YOU'LL NEED:

The Nettie Bodysuit pattern - assembled and traced
The Bombshell pattern - View C assembled and traced
1.5m of swimsuit lycra
4m clear swimsuit elastic
All the necessary swimsuit sewing accoutrements - sewing machine, fabric scissors, ballpoint machine needle, thread, pins etc

What we’re dealing with here is essentially a super simple, yet mega effective pattern alteration. We are going to make the Nettie Bodysuit into a crop-top. For this tutorial, I’ve teamed my Nettie crop-top with a pair of matching Bombshell bikini briefs, resulting in the absolute epitome of chic Summerwear - forget dresses that take you from the office to after-work drinks, I’m talking outfits that take you from pool to party!

STEP 1 - ALTERING THE NETTIE PATTERN

To begin with, we need to alter the Nettie pattern. Take your front bodice piece and simply cut along the line indicating the bra shelf. This will result in a crop-top that sits right below your bust, and gives as much support as a crop-top can offer. If you don’t need the support, and would like a longer line crop-top, simply cut an inch or two below that bra shelf line.

Next, we need to cut the bodice back piece to match the front. Place the pattern pieces together and match the side seams, marking the point where the bodice front now ends.

Using a ruler, mark out the line you’ll need to cut to crop your bodice back piece. Make sure that this line is perfectly parallel to the “lengthen/shorten” line.

Cut. Remember to transfer any pattern annotations that have been cut away - where to place on fold; size etc.

STEP 2 - SEW IT UP

Go about the usual making of your Nettie as per Heather-Lou’s instructions, stopping after you have inserted the sleeves and are ready to close the side seams. Before we close the side seams, we need to apply some of that lovely clear swimsuit elastic to the newly cropped hemline.

Can’t see it?? Neither can we… I guess that’s the beauty of it. Here she is up close:

Cut two lengths of elastic, each one about a centimeter shorter that the hemlines of the bodice front and bodice back. Pin the elastic to the right sides of your hem, evenly distributing the-ever-so slight fullness of the fabric.

Stitch the elastic into place, stretching it gently to fit, with a wide zigzag stitch.

Close your side seams, hem your sleeves and finally hem your top by turning the hem in once and stitch with a wide broken zigzag. The clear elastic will now be directly against your skin, keeping your top - and the ladies - securely in place!

STEP 3 - BOMBSHELL

Last thing to do is make up your Bombshell bikini briefs (View C) as per the pattern instructions.

And now, off to Mexico! *Checks bank balance* Or maybe not. Local pool perhaps…? Hmmmm. Well, it’s as I always say, you can never, ever be overdressed. Ciao for now…

Thanks Elisalex! I was planning on making some crop tops anyway but now it's jumped to the top of my queue! Also, can I please live in your closet??

Nettie Sewalong Pt 2 - Supplies

7 May 2014 by Heather Lou 13 Comments

Hi everyone! I hope Sunday’s post on the best fabric for your Nettie was helpful. Sewing with knits is a breeze when you have the right choice for your project!

Today I want to talk about the various bits and bobs you may need to gather. Many of these are totally optional – it would be entirely possible to make a Nettie dress or bodysuit with nothing but your fabric and some thread, but sometimes the extra details make your garments extra special.

BALL POINT NEEDLES

If you are sewing a Nettie on a regular machine, you absolutely (no ifs ands or buts!) need a needle designed for knits. Sharp needles are designed to pierce woven fabric; ball point needles slide in between the knit fibers and help your machine catch the bobbin thread.

You may see ballpoint needles called "Stretch" or "Jersey" needles. If you are using ballpoint needles and still having issues with skipped stitches, it may be the kind of ball-point needle. I remember having issues sewing my first Bombshells with "jersey" needles. I switched to a different brand "stretch" needle, and bingo, problem solved.

TWIN NEEDLES (OPTIONAL)

I recently started working a lot with twin needles. I had it in my head that they were a pain in the butt to thread and was finishing all my seams with a zigzag stitch out of pure laziness. And then I actually looked at my instruction manual and realized threading a twin needle was easy as pie. And the result is SO much more professional looking! When you sew with a twin needle, the top side will look like two parallel rows of neat straight stitches - the underside will be zigzagged. It mimics a coverstitch and takes your knit garments from the homemade zone to the "YOU MADE THAT?" stratosphere.

Again, it's important to get a twin needle designed for stretch fabrics. They come in different widths, but for Nettie, I prefer a very narrow stitch. A distance of 2-3mm between the needles makes a nice, small stitch detail. Marie at A Stitching Odyssey wrote a great post explaining how double needles work. There are also some gems of advice in the comments section if you are having trouble getting a nice stitch on your machine. Don't be intimidated by the double needle! It is your friend!

MARKING TOOL AND MEASURING TAPE

A nice chalk marking tool is indispensable for marking notches! I'm in love with these Clover ones. A flexible measuring tape is also great for measuring your curved seams.

SNAPS FOR THE BODYSUIT (OPTIONAL)

If you’re like me with baskets of random sewing equipment everywhere, chances are you already have some snaps somewhere in your stash. You want metal snaps, not plastic. They grip much better – plastic ones are a little flimsy and tend to pop open which is not ideal (unless that is the effect you’re going for!) I’ve used a variety of sizes, although I would avoid anything too tiny. The size is less important than the strength of the snap – you’ll be sewing 3 down which is surprisingly strong.

You may also choose to use hammer-on snaps. This is totally up to you! They can be a pain in the caboose to install sometimes, but if you're not down with watching Downton Abbey while hand sewing 6 individual snaps down, you can choose your own adventure.

LINING FOR THE SNAP CROTCH (OPTIONAL)

You really only need a few small scraps for the snap crotch lining. It can be any material, as long as it’s lightweight (your crotch area is not really the place you want a lot of bulk!) I like using crepe de chine, rayon bemberg, or lightweight cotton. Whatever you have laying around will work.

WOOLY NYLON THREAD

If you'll be making Nettie with your serger, you may want to pick up some wooly nylon thread. You can use it in both loopers, although I use it just in the upper looper since I don't have more than one in any colour. It makes a much softer, stretchier seam. I definitely notice a difference in seam stretchiness if I just use poly serger thread. It's a little pricey but a great investment!

SHOULDER STABILIZER

You want to stabilize those shoulder seams! The Nettie needs the structure – it’s such a stretchy design, your shoulder seams will look terrible in the long run without something helping them to stay put.

Almost anything can be used for stabilizer. Twill tape, bias tape, clear elastic, heavy ribbon, a piece of selvedge, stay tape. My preferred stabilizer is clear elastic – it’s nice and thin and doesn’t bulk up your seams.

ELASTIC FOR THE SHELF BRA (OPTIONAL)

If you're going to be adding a shelf bra, I recommend 1/2" wide elastic. However, I recently used 3/8" swimwear elastic (the beige cotton stuff) and it had GREAT support, so that works too if you've got some in the stash.

ELASTICS FOR HACKING YOUR NETTIE! (OPTIONAL)

The Nettie's neck and leg openings are bound using the same fabric you're making it with. It's a clean finish (and cheap)! Some of you mavericks may want to play around with different finishes though.

You can substitute your Nettie fabric binding with lace elastic, lingerie elastic or fold over elastic - all have different effects. Lace is soft and romantic (and will look completely invisible under clothing). Lingerie elastic will let you make the bottom a little tighter and maybe add a little detail if you have one with pretty trim. Fold over elastic is super clean and let's you play with contrasting colour effects. PLEASE keep in mind that if you use FOE or lingerie elastic you will have to add a little to the seam allowances at your leg openings since you won't be adding a binding. Your crotch panel will be too narrow as is.

HEATHER'S BONUS LIST OF SUPER AWESOME KNIT MIRACLE-MAKERS

If you like sewing with knits, I have a few tools I would like to recommend. We all know sewing can be an expensive hobby once you get going (SO MANY BERNINA FEET, SO LITTLE TIME) but the following tools will make your life so much easier. And your knit garments so much prettier.

WALKING FOOT

Depending in your machine, this may be a bit of an investment. My Bernina one was quite pricey, but worth every penny. Fear not though; you can get generic walking feet for your Singer or Janome or what-have-you on the internet or at any good sewing machine service centre. I picked one up for my old machine for around $25.

Why the hard sell? These little marvels of engineering feed the top and bottom fabric through your machine at an even speed, preventing rippled or stretched seams. They make matching stripes a joy. A JOY I SAY. There is a great post here that shows how these work. A walking foot is not a requirement for making Nettie, but it certainly helps!

QUILTING RULER, ROTARY CUTTER, CUTTING MAT & PATTERN WEIGHTS

I used to despise cutting patterns out. The pins and the scissors and the slippery fabric and the tediousness of it... oy vey. And then I discovered rotary cutters. And life was forever changed.

Now, it takes me mere minutes to cut out a Nettie (or anything for that matter). I picked up a box of heavy flat washers from Home Depot for around $10 and use those to weigh my patterns down on top of a large self-healing cutting mat (I paid approximately $30 for mine - I like one that is at least 24" x 36"). With a good quality rotary cutter, it takes hardly anytime at all to cut out your pieces! Your edges are much cleaner and your back hurts less. I have a few rotary cutters in different sizes because I am a gadget monster but you can get a small 28mm Olfa (the best brand I've found) for under $20. Like this one here. The smaller blade makes it easy to get around the tight corners of the Nettie neckline.

I recently picked up a quilting ruler and they, ahem, rule. If you are using fabric binding, a nice strong grid ruler is a big help to cut them out.

Ooookay. I think that about covers anything you might want to gather before we start the sewalong! Again, a lot of this stuff is optional (but will make your life just a little easier).

Mark your calenders for May 19th. We'll start the official Nettie sewalong then. I am hoping to include some hacking tutorials as well. I have an idea for a Nettie swimsuit that could be killer.

I have started a flickr group where folks can upload their finished makes. I would like to host a giveaway at the end for a Girl Charlee gift certificate (hence why I've been asking you to make first time purchases through this link - someone is going to get a big ol' bag of internet loot in June!)

Have a great week friends! I'm super excited to share a By Hand London tutorial this Thursday for Sewing Indie Month!

Nettie Sewalong Pt 1 - Fabric

5 May 2014 by Heather Lou 23 Comments

Hi folks! I hope you had a wonderful weekend. Today I want to talk in depth about fabric choices for the Nettie Bodysuit & Dress. Since it's a lot of ground to cover, I will post tomorrow about additional materials you may want to gather. I won't be starting the sewalong for a few weeks so everyone has time to gather their materials.

Some of you may be unfamiliar with sewing with knits. They can seem intimidating at first, especially given the misconception that you need a serger. You don't! Knit garments can be easily made on a regular machine as long as you can do a zig zag stitch. Since knits make up so much of our daily wardrobe, its worthwhile to embrace sewing with them, a highly manageable goal once you understand a few basics.

The Nettie pattern is probably unique from a pattern making perspective if you haven't sewn with a lot of close-fitting knits before. It has negative ease, which means the final garment will be smaller than your body measurements. In order for this pattern to work, it has to cling to your body. If it is not tight enough, your shoulders will be constantly falling down, especially with the scoop neck, low back variation. The downside of this is if you don't choose a fabric with enough stretch, it will be too tight. This isn't often an issue with most patterns, since generous ease is usually included. I think it is important to mention now that if you are in-between sizes or are concerned that your fabric may not be stretchy enough, go up a size or 2! Technically I'm a size 10 on top and a 12 on bottom, but most of my samples were made with a straight 12 and fit fine. The forgiving nature of knits makes grading between sizes often irrelevant - it's better to err on the side of caution and take it in later if you need to!

There are five elements that you will need to consider when choosing your Nettie fabric: fabric composition & recovery, fabric weight, direction of stretch, and stretch percentage. This may seem a little overwhelming but I will break down what all this information means. Any decent online purveyer will include most of this information in the fabric description so it should not be difficult to find the perfect fabric for your Nettie!

FABRIC COMPOSITION

Knit fabric differs from traditional fabric in that is actually "knitted" together as opposed to woven. Knit fabrics get their stretch from the physical construction of the fibers, and can be made from any material, such as silk, wool or cotton. That said, not all knit fabrics are created equal. For Nettie, you need a knit that has an elastic component blended with the base fiber.

My ideal fabric for the Nettie Bodysuit, and what I used as a basis to draft it, is a cotton-lycra blend (lycra and spandex are used interchangeably in fabric descriptions). The critical component is the lycra; my pattern testers and I had success with rayon-lycra, bamboo-lycra, and straight up lycra (otherwise known as swimsuit fabric).

The ratio of lycra to cotton/bamboo etc. will determine how well it stretches and "recovers". The more lyrca, the more it will want to return to its original size after being stretched. An ideal ratio is 5-10% lycra, although it can be made with less (my blue floral Nettie had 2% lycra - I let out the seams a little to compensate for any lack of stretch). You want a fabric that recovers from being stretched - if it doesn't, it will get stretched out and baggy over time.

For the Nettie dress, lycra is not a requirement since vertical stretch is not required. Ponte and other 2-way stretch fabrics work well, provided the stretch percentage is adequate (more on that below!)

FABRIC WEIGHT

The weight of your fabric will determine the way Nettie fits and clings. Medium to heavy weight knits will act almost like spanx, sucking everything in and molding to your curves. Lighter weight fabrics work as well, but if your fabric is very drapey, you will be more likely to see to see bra straps through the thinness of the material.

2-WAY vs. 4-WAY STRETCH

Of critical importance when choosing a fabric for Nettie, is determining whether or not it is a 2-way or 4-way stretch. 4-way stretches both horizontally and vertically, which is muy importante for the bodysuit. If your fabric doesn't stretch along both axis, your bodysuit may be uncomfortable or too short in the torso.

2-way stretch fabric, such as ponte or cotton jersey (what is traditionally used to make t-shirts) can be used for the dress, provided they stretch enough on the horizontal axis.

This is easy to determine when you are shopping in real life, as you can stretch the fabric in both directions. When shopping online, do not buy anything that does not explicitly state that the fabric is 4-way stretch if you are making the bodysuit!

STRETCH PERCENTAGE

Stretch percentage refers to the amount your fabric stretches in proportion to the fabric when laying flat. I specify a fabric with at least 50% horizontal stretch, which means the fabric should stretch by at least half its length.

To illustrate this concept, I cut 6 inch squares of the fabrics I used for some of my sample Netties to show you what kind of stretch percentage they had. Folding the swatch in half, I stretched it as far as it would go and measured it to see what it's percentage was.

Cotton lycra - 55% stretcb — Cotton lycra - 55% stretch

In my experience, super-stretchy fabric (above 70%) tends to be lighter weight and looser fitting. The short sleeved striped Nettie I made is not tight at all - the fabric was almost drapey and very forgiving. The medium weight knits tended to be around 50-60% stretch and fit much tighter.

Not all online stores provide stretch percentage. When in doubt, look at the ratio of lycra. Anything over 5% is going to give you a good stretch percentage!

Now that we've gone over what you need to look for, here's the fun part.

ONLINE SOURCES

My absolute favourite source for Nettie fabrics is Girl Charlee. I looked all around the web and they have the BEST prints out there and the prices are fantastic. If anyone ends up buying from there for the first time, please use this referral link. For every order I get a $5 credit, which I would like to use for giveaways & prizes in the future.

Here are some current finds:

Screen Shot 2014-05-04 at 4.18.36 PM — Nettie looks great in stripes. I like the alternating wide and thin lines here. Girl Charlee has lots of great stripes!

Screen Shot 2014-05-04 at 4.21.14 PM — Floral Netties are feminine and sweet. I love the contrast of the red flowers and black background.

Girl Charlee fabric for Nettie pattern — Make an edgier Nettie with a cool geometric print!

Spandex World has a good range of prints and every solid colour you can imagine. This check print is particularly appealing:

Fabric.com has quite a lot as well. They have some nice stripes which can be hard to find.

Other sources:

Spandex House
Designer Alley Fabrics
Marcy Tilton

In the UK/Europe:

Minerva Crafts
Guthrie & Ghani
Textile express
Tissu Fabrics
Showtime Fabrics
Calico Laine

Australia

Glitter & Dance

Anyone else have any other resources? I'll add them to the list!

Hopefully this helps you understand how to make great fabric choices for your Nettie. It's more specific than you're probably used to, but picking the perfect knit will ensure your dress or bodysuit fits perfectly. I'll be back tomorrow with a post on other notions or tools you may need!

Introducing...The Nettie Pattern

30 April 2014 by Heather Lou 122 Comments

Hello friends! I’m beyond excited to tell you that after a few months of laaaaaate nights, a mind-numbing amount of serger thread changes and more yards of jersey than I can count, my new baby is finally ready for your eyes and sewing machines.

Say hi to Nettie.

The genesis of this project started months and months ago. I was on the hunt for a bodysuit. I love how clean and modern they look under skirts and pants, and I hate having to constantly tuck in my shirt. I couldn’t find a pattern I liked, and all the vintage ones I tracked down were not designed for modern knit fabrics. I finally resorted to retail, and had a few moments of pure panic and body shame in dressing rooms, trying on leotards that basically cut my (prodigious) booty into the quad cheek nightmare that inspired the Bombshell pattern. They were either too high cut or way too short for my torso. Clothing shouldn’t feel like dental floss.

I love that my butt, and how to fit it into things, is the inspiration for so many of my ideas.

While I was bodysuit hunting, a few other sewing bloggers were posting about their DIY attempts at drafting them, or the relative dearth of available patterns. Logic followed that I take up the bodysuit quest, and draft one that would make all of our different types of bodies happy. So that’s what I’ve done.

In the process, I discovered that Nettie, with the addition of a skirt panel, makes one helluva knit dress (or t-shirt!), so I am thrilled to add that as a variation as well. Whether you make a Nettie bodysuit or dress, you will get to mix and match your choice of 3 sleeve lengths, two neckline and 3 back options for a Nettie cocktail perfectly tailored to your taste. You can go modest with a bateau neckline or show off some skin with a scoop neck and low back version. The bodysuit variation has a low cut bum to prevent those annoying panty lines, along with an optional snap crotch so you don’t have to get naked to go pee. The leg and neck openings are finished with the same stretch fabric you’re using to make the bodice, so this is a budget conscious project – you don’t need any extra notions unless you’re adding crotch snaps or a shelf bra.

Nettie Dress & Bodysuit Pattern, Closet Core Patterns, PDF pattern — Nettie bodysuit paired with By Hand London Flora skirt!

This pattern can be made using a serger or a regular machine, and I worked hard to write instructions and draft illustrations that should make this a breeze to make. And the beautiful thing is, Nettie goes with everything! I love wearing her with jeans and wide legged pants, or a full skirt for a chic French vibe. The dress variation can be perfectly casual with sandals, or sexy and simple with a pair of heels. It’s my idea of the perfect pattern – easy to make, and infinitely customizable.

Nettie is designed to be made with 4-way stretch fabrics with good recovery and at least 50% stretch. My absolute FAVOURITE fabric for Nettie is a medium weight cotton-spandex. It’s perfectly clingy and has a little firming mojo. I’ve also had success making them with spandex blends like rayon and bamboo, but drapier fabrics may not have enough body to do the job. The Nettie dress can be made with 2-way stretch like ponte, although I don’t suggest using such fabrics to make the bodysuit since you won’t have any vertical stretching along your torso and will need to lengthen the bodice in order to be comfortable.

I will be hosting a sewalong in a few weeks that will walk you step by step through the Nettie process. I know some people get nervous about sewing with knits, but as long as you have the right needle on your machine, Nettie is your friend. I will also be covering how to hack your Nettie with different seam finishes like lingerie & stretch lace elastic. I plan on posting an exhaustively detailed post later this week explaining fabric in more detail so you will know what to look for.

Now that I’ve told you a little bit about Nettie, I'd like to get a little personal and explain the naming of this pattern, and all future Closet Core Patterns.

Nearly everything meaningful I’ve learned about sewing has come from the blogosphere. There was a time when you relied on a home-ec class or a patient family member to show you the Singer ropes, but these days I open my rss reader and have a daily college level sewing class at my fingertips. It’s the highlight of my day.

I've been lucky enough to meet some of my fellow bloggers. Maybe we've talked on the phone, exchanged emails or racked up long distance phone bills gabbing about the craft. At the very least, we keep in touch and encourage one another through comment sections, Instagram and Twitter. You are a large part of why I sew, and are 100% responsible for why I decided to release the Bombshell last summer. I am so grateful to be a part of this inspiring, generous and creative community. Me? Wings. You? Wind.

This year I started thinking really seriously about where I wanted to take Closet Core Patterns. I had sketchbooks filled with pattern ideas, many inspired in some form or another by other bloggers; what they were making, what they wanted to make but couldn't find patterns for. Most of my ideas already had blog muses preternaturally attached to them in my mind. So it seemed fitting to name my new patterns after the people who get me excited about style, making and sewing, and who taught me so much about this craft; you folks in the sewing community.

So…. Nettie.

My muse for this pattern is Wanett aka Nettie; she writes Sown Brooklyn. Do you know her? You should. She's insightful, lovely, kind, creative, intelligent, a lover of reading and history. She has adorable children who take photos of her wearing the sorts of fun, modern, individualistic yet functional clothes you'd imagine a cool mom living in Brooklyn to wear. When I finally met her in NY this fall it was like meeting an old friend. And fatefully, she wrote a post about wanting to make a bodysuit around the same time I was trying and failing to find a pattern for one. Kismet... I probably wouldn't have started working on this pattern if it wasn't for bloggers like Nettie who told me I wasn't the only one longing for the sleek, no-fuss lines of a bodysuit.

So, this pattern is for Nettie, and all the other busy ladies out there who need chic, simple, flattering basics. This pattern has made getting dressed so much easier for me; I hope you find it as indispensable in your wardrobe as I do!

You can purchase it on my online store here. For those of you dedicated Paypal users, you can find it on Etsy here. Now, if you'll excuse me. I'm going to have a gigantic glass of white wine and exhale.