The Bathrobe of Dreams: Lahja Dressing Gown with Robert Kaufman Taos Flannel

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This here is my second entry in the "flannel will save your life" category of winter sewing and it couldn't have come at a more crucial time. Up until now, I have cycled through a summer robe (this gorgeous kimono-inspired number I pull out when the temperatures are high) and a winter robe, an old, thrifted and threadbare thing I absolutely hated to wear. It was desperately time to add a new addition into the mix.

Meet the Lahja Dressing Gown from Named patterns. She and I have become mighty good friends.

I don't think I can wax more poetically about the fabric I chose for this project. I wanted something super thick and cozy, and this Taos flannel (supplied to us by Robert Kaufman) is actual, literal #dreams.  If you're looking to score some yourself (and I would highly suggest you do so), it's available here at fabric.com. The print and colourways are already over the top beautiful, but when it arrived I discovered it was DOUBLE SIDED, making the cutting part actually fun (anyone else procrastinate cutting out projects as much as I do?)

Normally I power through the cutting phase, but for this project I took my sweet, luxurious time.  Since this such a simple shape, I wanted to make the details pop as much as I could. This meant cutting the band, pockets and tie using the opposite side of the fabric, and I love the contrast between the two.

The pattern itself could not have been easier to assemble. I've had my eye on Lahja for a while and it didn't disappoint. I love the big, roomy pockets and the length of the sleeve. Not quite wrist length, I find them easier to wear when you're washing your face or doing the dishes. My old robe has really long sleeves which were constantly getting wet... the opposite of cozy.

The fabric is sooooo soft and soooooo warm and when I wake up every morning at 7am, it's basically the only thing between me and crawling back into bed. I think I sewed the pockets a touch low, but other than that is dressing gown perfection and am hoping to whip up one in linen this spring. I also think it would make a killer gift for someone deserving in your life.

Also it's good for snuggling.

Do you have a favourite robe pattern? I still think about this robe of Kelli's all the time...

Details: Lahja Dressing Gown from Named Patterns, Taos Flannel supplied by Robert Kaufman

Lady in Red: My Silk Kielo Wrap Dress

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I'm super embarrassed about how long it has taken me to document some of my favourite sewing projects from last year. I made a few incredible things that I hung in our sample closet intending to photograph, and then just got busy and forgot about. When I finally got my act together this month, it was like discovering a whole new wardrobe.

This red silk Kielo wrap dress from Named is one of those "oh man I forgot how much I love this!" makes. I love the idea of a red dress (maybe it's nostalgia for this song?) but I've always been nervous to pull the trigger since it's such a huge colour statement. I dipped my toes in the game with this very soft, coral-ish red textured silk I got in San Francisco last year (I scored the last few precious yards from the bolt!) It's got a sand-washed finish, so it doesn't read as bold and bright as say, that bananas plunging gown Julia Roberts wore in Pretty Woman. Which is to say, much more my speed.

One of the best things about this pattern is that you can wear it tied in the front or back for two pretty different looks. Here it is tied in the back:

Red silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsRed silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsRed silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsRed silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

Tied this way, it's much more of a straight column, with all the volume happening in the back.

For more of a party, you can also tie it in the front. This creates serious drama, in addition to a lot of tulip-shaped volume at the hips. I'm into exaggerated silhouettes so I love the shape, but it might not be for everyone.

Red silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Red silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Red silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsRed silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

And of course, the silhouette when unwrapped is practically iconic at this point. Here is my Kielo flying squirrel:

Red silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

This pattern really exemplifies why I love so many of Named's designs. It's such a simple concept with minimal pattern pieces but the wow factor is very high. I made this to wear to a friend's summer wedding, and I had fun switching how it was tied all night long. I may have done some tipsy champagne dancing in full flying squirrel mode.

I was so happy to rediscover this dress I brought it to California with me last week and wore it on our one fancy night out to the Dresden (which incidentally is a MUST VISIT in LA. They have this amazingly kitschy-great jazz duo named Marty and Elayne who play there every night, made famous by a scene in the movie Swingers. We ate in the gloriously old-school Hollywood restaurant first; the food was fine but the setting was worth every penny). After wearing it for a few hours I remembered its fatal flaw; it's just a little too tight across the bust. This is 100% my fault. The pattern needs fabric with a bit of stretch, and this silk is stretch-less. I should have gone up a size or two, especially since I sewed the armholes higher than intended. I didn't like how low they sat on me when I tried on a Kielo one of my students made during a past workshop. By sewing a smaller armhole I gave myself less width across the chest, so the fabric wants to pull up and sit on top of my bust. It's not a major thing and I still love and plan to wear this a lot, but if I make another I will make sure I give my girls more room. I'd also raise the location of the ties; I find they sit just an inch or two lower than my natural waist when tied.

In terms of construction,  I skipped the neck facing and finished the neckline and armholes with matching bias tape. It was a relatively quick and simple make and I plan on treating it casually. I've started washing and drying all my silk like normal clothing; not treating it preciously means I'm more likely to wear it day to day. And this dress looks great dressed up or down with my white converse high tops, so I'm hoping she sees a lot of daylight once the seasons change. I think I also have a few yards of the same silk in navy, so I'm brainstorming ways to use it. It photographs so beautifully.

Red silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Red silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsRed silk Kielo Wrap dress by Named Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

Have you tried sewing Kielo yet? And would you ever consider wearing a red dress?

Details: Kielo dress by Named in red silk remnant, Lipstick: Glossier Generation G in Zip, Shoes: very old Aldo, Glasses: Firmoo

 

The Chic Sweatshirt // Talvikki Sweater by Named Patterns

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Talvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blog

I've been spending a lot of time thinking about my wardrobe the last few months. Since the fire in my building happened, I've sorted through and gotten rid of approximately 30% of my clothing, and I've discovered I really like having a smaller wardrobe; it's so much easier to get dressed! G and I are moving in together this spring, so I will likely have to sort through everything again as I decide what I want to bring to our new home. Moving is always a reckoning for me. What is worth packing in a box, putting on a truck, and unpacking somewhere else? What person do I want to bring with me to this new life together?

It's worthy of a longer post, but what it all means is that I have been truly grappling with what I want to wear, what I am missing in my wardrobe, what clothing makes me feel best. I've been working through the wonderful book The Curated Closet by Anuschka Rees (of the indispensable style blog Into Mind), and it's made me realize how much my style has changed over the last few years. I find myself drawn like a bee to clean, modern shapes and silhouettes, and a pattern that will get my blood racing is no longer the vintage inspired party dress I gravitated towards when I first started sewing, but more likely an interesting separate with clever style lines or details. Enter the Talvikki sweater by Named.

Talvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blog Talvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blognamed-talvikki-sweater-pattern-9Talvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blog

I really loved the latest Named collection (the consistant style lines and details throughout were so conceptual and beautiful) and the Talvikki sweater was the stand out winner for me. I have been dreaming of a similar funnel neck for months now (so elegant!), and the beautiful darts at the neckline cinched the deal. I also loved the split hem, one of my favourite features of another Named favourite, the Inari dress. I've really come to love this pattern company; they consistently produce cool, modern designs with thoughtful and sophisticated details.

Talvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blog  Talvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blogTalvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blogTalvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blog

Slouchy and oversized, Talvikki is as comfortable as can be, yet the neckline is so chic and elegant, it makes what is essentially a giant sweatshirt feel like something I would wear just about anywhere. It probably won't surprise you to know that I've been pulling this sweater out more and more as the temperatures have dropped here in Montreal; it's so soft and cozy in this sweatshirt fleece from my stash, and I find myself hunting for other beefy, squishy fabrics for my next version. I also appreciate having a cozy sweater pattern that doesn't require me dedicating 6 months of my life to knitting it. Call it a #sweatercheat.

Talvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blog Talvikki sweater patten by Named // Closet Core Patterns blog

What do you think of this pattern? As charmed as I am or too slouchy for your taste? What cozy sweaters are you sewing up this winter?

Details: Talvikki sweater by Named in sweatshirt fleece (similar here), Ginger Jeans, Cole Haan Abbot boots, Firmoo sunglasses, Nars Dragon Girl matte lip pencil

(Yet Another) Named Inari Dress in Striped Linen

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So it's time to admit it... I think the Inari dress has officially entered the pantheon of TNT patterns for me. This makes #3, all in linen (there is also one in black and one in blue) and I haven't even tried a knit version yet!  I suspect it would be stupendous in a nice sturdy double knit or scuba, of which I curently have several, because hoarding.

If this fabric looks familiar, it's because I used it to make those beautiful napkins & tea towels for my in-laws. When Guillaume realized it was the same fabric, he made a lot of jokes about using me to wipe off his hands every time I wore the dress over the holidays. Which was almost all the time, because overeating. You need loose shift dresses at Christmas when cheese finishes every epic meal . It's mandatory. [Read more...]

Summer Uniform // Inari Tee Dress In Linen (Again)

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I'm not the tattoo type (too commitment phobic and paranoid about being accidentally frozen in an iceberg and later studied by future generations) BUT,  if I was, I would get a little 5/8" seam ruler stamped on my index finger, and then somewhere I'd look everyday and be reminded, some cursive script saying "If it works, work it". Because sometimes you need to be reminded that you don't need to reinvent the wheel when it's turning just fine on it's own.

What was working for me this summer was the black Inari dress I wore so much it's already starting to fade. What was also working for me was linen, which I bought even more of during an impulse Michael Levine shopping spree. By my logic, if it ain't broke, make more of them.

Inari Tee dress in linen // Named sewing pattern // Closet Core PatternsInari Tee dress in linen // Named sewing pattern // Closet Core Patterns

The Inari Tee is definitely becoming a TNT pattern. I really just love how easy the shape is, with enough sly, sophisticated detail to make it feel a little more special than your average shift dress. I'll be whipping up the crop top variation before summer is completely over, believe you me, and I may even get brave and dip into my psychedelic Vlisco wax print stash for something that borders on "whoooooaaaaa!!!!!" Or perhaps a Keanu "whoa?"

I've never shopped at Michael Levine before, but I had fallen in love with this sweater knit because of Dandelion Drift, so figured I'd dip more than a toe into the pool. I was curious about the Essex cotton/linen blend, so I got a few yards of this denim colorway. It's got a lot more body than the black linen I had used for my previous make, but as a result it holds it's shape really well, making the cocoon shape of the pattern more pronounced, and obviously not wrinkling quite as much as 100% linen.

Inari Tee dress in linen // Named sewing pattern // Closet Core Patterns Inari Tee dress in linen // Named sewing pattern // Closet Core PatternsInari Tee dress in linen // Named sewing pattern // Closet Core Patterns

I wanted to sass this project up a little with some contrast topstitching and was wooed by a good deal on neon serger thread at my notions shop. A single stitch wasn't very impactful, so for the first time ever (I know, I know) I experimented with my machine's triple stitch. Basically this just makes a regular straight stitch but sews each one three times, creating a much denser line of stitching. The yellow popped a lot more and gives the simple shape a little more something-something.

ps. If you're making jeans and having trouble using topsticthing thread, try regular thread with a triple stitch! It takes a little longer to sew but mimics the look and provides more reliable tension.

Otherwise, construction was pretty simple. I did a bias neckline using some storebought stuff in my stash, topstitched the cuffs rather than slipstitching them in place, and added a bar tack at the top of the leg slit to provide a little reinforcement.

Neon topstitching using triple stitch // Named Inari Tee dress in linen // Closet Core Patterns Inari Tee dress in linen // Named sewing pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Also, you may have noticed my new shades. I have a bad cheap sunglass collecting habit, but realized this year I rather desperately needed prescription sunnies since I rarely wear my contacts. While I had a my eye on a few pairs at Warby Parker (these ones in particular), I was super happy to discover that Firmoo started carrying cool frames this summer. I bought my last pair of eyeglasses with them and the prices are so good you kind of want to paintball your optometrist's office with their 1000% markup. I ended up getting these ones with prescription lenses for under $50 and I am super happy with the quality, in case you're in the market.

Inari Tee dress in linen // Firmoo Sunglasses // Closet Core PatternsNeon topstitching using triple stitch // Named Inari Tee dress in linen // Closet Core Patterns

Have you discovered a new TNT pattern this summer? Would you be willing to give neon topstitching a try? All ears over here.

Details: Inari tee dress in Essex linen, Firmoo shades, zipper earrings from Oona, shoes from Payless many moons ago, Mac Good to Go lipstick

Named Inari Tee Dress In Soft Linen

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I haven't really had a thought out, wardrobe architectured plan for my summer sewing; it's been pretty improvisational around here these days.  Flying by the seat of your pants doesn't generally yield consistent, unified results, but I've surprised myself by making a fairly cohesive summer capsule wardrobe this summer, something made clear when I started packing for a friends wedding this weekend and everything just worked together.

Here's what I am more or less wearing every day:

1. Various iterations of Sallie, in dress and jumpsuit form. I cropped one sample to wear with flats, and just picked up a navy linen knit and gorgeous watercolour floral rayon for yet another dress.

2. Slightly fancier summer dresses for picnics, cocktails and the like. My black linen Lonsdale has been worn at least once a week, and I just made a graphic Sophia dress for the wedding tomorrow, one I'm sure to be wearing again this summer.

3. Loose fitting tunic dresses for mega hot days and running errands in the neighborhood. Preferably in linen. With luck, made from the Inari Tee dress pattern by Named.

Named Inari Tee dress sewing pattern Named Inari Tee Dress Pattern // Black linen // Closet Core Patterns

This is a brilliant pattern. It's the second time I've sewn a Named design, and while I continue to be mildly annoyed by their PDF layouts (only in two sizes, not properly nested) I'm becoming really impressed with their eye for silhouette, proportion and cool, original details. At first glance this pattern is incredibly simple; it's basically a sack dress with no darts to speak of. But the fit is spot on (loose fitting and slouchy without saying "I've given up") and I love the subtle cocoon shaping in the side seams, the angled slit at the thigh, the slightly high/low hem, and the cuffed sleeve. It is chic and modern and oh so easy to wear.

Named Inari Tee Dress Pattern // Black linen // Closet Core Patterns Named Inari Tee Dress Pattern // Black linen // Closet Core Patterns

The clogaholics among you may have spotted my new/old beauts. They're vintage Italian guys from Italy. My heart stopped for one perfect minute when I saw them at the vintage store. The fact that they actually fit these size 9 dogs felt like a minor miracle, or clog kismet.

Back to the dress. I zipped this up in an evening using the same linen I used for my Lonsdale. I made a size 8, grading to a little larger than a 10 at the hip. All the seams are finished using my beloved Juki (which I just reviewed here), and I skipped the facing in favour of a bias bound neckline using self fabric. I was especially pleased with the fit through the shoulder - I often have issues with gaping since I'm a little narrow up there, but this was perfect from minute one. A super easy, satisfying make, well suited to my jazzy improv sewing style this summer. I've worn and washed it enough that's it already starting to get that slightly faded, well loved patina that linen gets over time. Also? Soft as hell.

Named Inari Tee Dress Pattern // Black linen // Closet Core Patterns Named Inari Tee Dress Pattern // Black linen // Closet Core Patterns

I have plans to make a few more of these, maybe even with one of my new Vlisco wax print acquisitions if I'm feeling bold. Next time I'll be sure to reinforce the slit hem with a little bar tack, but otherwise, this pattern is going in the canon.

Has anyone else made Inari yet? Are you on the sack dress train too? Let's all be chic and lazy together.

Made: Asaka Kimono DIY by Named

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Sometimes, you just need to drop whatever you're doing, like, immediately, and make a big, sweet, tropical bowl of icing for dinner. It's the sewing equivalent of shaking up an Etch-A-Sketch; it pulls you out of your routine, clears your brain and creates a blank, fresh slate that reminds you how much fun it is to simply make stuff for your own selfish pleasure.

Named Asaka Kimono DIYNamed Asaka Kimono DIY Named Asaka Kimono DIY

The Asaka Kimono is my latest sewing etch-a-sketch. I've been working on a lot of boring admin stuff and new pattern development and really needed a little mental break. I was quite taken with the spirit and general vibe of the new Named collection, and basically started panting like a dog in 100 degree heat when I saw this pattern. I was fairly lukewarm on the kimono DIY trend last summer, mostly because when I think "kimono" I think dramatic sleeves, and most of the patterns and tutorials I was seeing were basically just boxy jackets. But Asaka could be the star of a sleeve porno. These sleeves are obscene, and I can't get enough. To be honest, it's one of those designs that makes me a little mad I didn't think of it first.

Named Asaka Kimono DIYNamed Asaka Kimono DIYNamed Asaka Kimono DIY

Thankfully, my buddies over at Globetex emailed me to let me know they had recieved a new shipment of  rayon challis in stock last month. Did I run over there without even finishing the email, perhaps with hair still wet from the shower? I may have, dear readers. Did I buy almost 25 meters of aforementioned challis in 6 colours and patterns because it was only $3 a meter? Perhaps. Did I immediately spot this technicolour Golden Girls wallpaper print and yell out ASAKA KIMONO! to the surprised and confused bystanders in the fabric warehouse? I cannot confirm or deny that fact. What I can confirm is that I stinkin' love this fabric and the resulting robe. My only regret is not getting a chance to photograph it in the Arizona desert this month, but alas. There were rattlesnakes and curious retirees in golf carts everywhere I looked. The white studio wall will have to suffice.

While I may have referred to this garment as "icing" in the top of my post, I think I'll actually get a lot of wear out of it this spring and summer. Now that I've retired the velvet "winter" bathrobe for the season, I'm in need of something light and breathy to wear around the house after showers, and on those Sundays when putting on real clothes feels like too much commitment. As my Carolyn Pajamas can attest, I'm a big fan of luxurious lounge wear, and what's more luxe than a drapey, soft kimono with obscene, useless but beautiful sleeves?

Named Asaka Kimono DIY Named Asaka Kimono DIY

This was my first time sewing a Named design but I wasn't surprised to discover it was only nested in two sizes;  I've heard this is the norm with their layouts. I could see this being a problem with a more fitted design if you have to grade between 3 or 4 sizes, but since it's a loose-fitting shape, it's probably not as critical. The pieces were also overlapped, which I didn't mind since I am a tracer and a non-overlapped pattern would have eaten up 50 pages or more. The one thing I did find annoying was seam allowances; while they were included, it was only for 3/8" rather than the standard 5/8". Fine if you're serging your seams, but considering this pattern was designed for silky, drapey fabrics, I found it a little strange that the seam allowance wouldn't permit french seams. Needless to say, I added a 1/4" to my seams by roughly eye balling it while I was cutting out the fabric with my rotary cutter and then french-seamed all of the guts. The rest of the construction was pretty uneventful, although my fusible was a touch on the heavy side, so the belt and collar are probably a little too stiff. Since rayon is so wiggly, stitching in the ditch along the collar didn't result in the most even stitching on the inside, but meh. No one sees there but me. And if I ever make this again, I'm definitely adding pockets.

Named Asaka Kimono DIY Named Asaka Kimono DIY

All in all, I am in complete and utter sleeve lust with this make. I'd love to wear it as a dress but it would need a few mods to stay modest all day long. As is, it's going to be my lazy glam houselook for the foreseeable future. Has anyone else made a pattern from the new Named collection? Would you wear this pattern as a dress or is it better left as an inside only type affair?

Details: Asaka Kimono in rayon challis (a similarly beautful floral rayon is on sale here), DIY turban, Hasbeens Fredrica Platforms, Wet N Wild Megalast Lipstick)

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