Linen Archives

My Amy Jumpsuit in Striped Linen

25 September 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

I think lightweight linen time is officially over for me... I woke up yesterday to a 4 degree morning (that's 39F to my American neighbors) which required many layers and a few curse words to leave the house. So, looking at pictures of this Amy Jumpsuit in the perfect summer-weight linen makes me already nostalgic for a season that is only barely just over. Maybe it's because of how frequently I wore this number, how attached we became. It's like saying goodbye to that person you became best friends with almost as soon as you met.

I made this jumpsuit midway through our pattern development process. Once a design has been graded I try to make at least one sample in my size; I then wear said sample as often as possible without grossing the people in my life out. I'm testing for fit, comfort, durability, whether our construction techniques will hold up to frequent use and washing. This stage reminds me of my old interior design career; we used to always have samples of furniture and millwork made, which we would then try to beat the crap out of. Sewing pattern prototypes is the equivalent of jumping on those benches to make sure they didn't fall apart.

I chose linen for this make because I wanted to see how the silhouette would stand up to a more structured fabric. I knew I loved Amy in a drapey rayon, but what does a loose fitting, wide-legged jumpsuit look when it's made with something a little more crisp and defined? Turns out, something good. The shape is more pronounced, the leg more defined, but the ease and comfort remain. My dream is basically to have linen against as much of my body as possible in warmer months, so this make hit all my clothing chakras.

This very pretty linen is from Blackbird Fabrics (sorry, it's sold out!) and I bought it hoping to see how Amy handled stripes. To make it work, I rotated the grainline slightly so it ran parallel to the center front and center back bodice line; this ensured I wasn't creating any weird chevron shapes along the front seams. Shifting the grainline did affect the leg shape a bit; I found they became a bit more triangular, although that could just be the absence of any substantial drape in the fabric. Regardless, I am into the silhouette, and it looks dope af layered under a jean jacket.

I skipped the pockets and topstitched the lining in place since I found it peeking out more than it had it with my other version. This prototype also helped us realize the dart was a bit too low, so we raised it for the final version.

As much as I love my linen Amy, it's getting packed away for the season. I'm excited to layer my rayon challis versions for a while longer yet, but something about rumply linen just says summer to me... I seem to start wearing it as soon as I put away my knitting, and stop wearing it the minute it's chilly enough at night to pull out my knitting from the spring before.

Are you the same way? Is linen "summer only" for you too?

Miss Fancy Pants: Jenny Shorts in Marimmeko Linen

30 August 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

Summer is nearing the end (I mean, I know technically it goes till mid-September but the minute Labour Day approaches I basically curl into a ball and have a good, wistful cry) and I still have a few more of my summer sewing projects to show you. These Jenny Shorts are one of my favourite makes this year and have been my very best friend through the worst of the many heat waves we've endured.

They are made from the only fabric I bought on my recent trip to Sweden, a beautiful cotton-linen blend from Marimekko. Normally I'm not a big print person, but how can you resist the weird whimsy of Marimekko? You can't, which is why I found myself spending the most money I have ever spent on fabric in their Stockholm shop, trying not to do the calculation from krona to Canadian. I promised myself I would sew something special with this psychedelic floral, and decided shorts was the best option since I only had a yard and am not keen to put this much fabric party up against my face.

And what shorts they are! I may go as far as to say they are my dream shorts; not too short, not too long, perfectly high waisted and with enough width and flare through the hips to still feel modest-ish. And so, so comfy! I mostly wore them with cropped linen tees, but when it got super hot and sticky I loved pairing them with this backless tank bodysuit (not a Nettie, but I wore it so much I might make a few for next year).

I made one small tweak to the pattern. In order to have a bit more width through the thigh, I graded them out one size from the hip down (I made a 14 and ended up grading to the 16 at the hem). It results in a less straight shape, so I suggest doing the same if you like a bit more flare in your shorts. I just barely had enough fabric so I didn't worry about print placement, but I think with big, wild prints like this you don't really need to fuss much.

Because of the cotton in the blend they don't wrinkle like regular linen, and always made me feel quite cool and collected even after sitting in them all day. Also, how can you not crack a huge-ass smile when you put something this cheerful and fun on your body? I have many more party shorts on my agenda for next year using this pattern, including a fancy pair with French jacquard. Just call me Miss Fancy Pants, I won't mind at all.

Have you sewn with Marimekko fabric before? And have you tried our Jenny shorts yet? I really think it's a fabulous summer short, if I do say so myself.

Details: Jenny Shorts in Marimekko linen/cotton, Everlane bodysuit, Firmoo sunglasses, pink suede Selected mules

My Green Linen Fiona Sundress

7 August 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

I think I've officially become a linen monster. I sleep in linen sheets, I spend hours obsessing over linen colours at The Fabric Store, there are increasingly growing stacks of it in our stash, and almost everything I want to sew the moment the snow melts is you know, linen. Yes, it wrinkles like crazy. Yes, there is a breaking in period while you wait for it to turn from crisp and slightly stiff to soft and faded and cozy. But there is something so viscerally appealing and analog about the texture and feel of it that I have officially become linen's unofficial spokeswoman (last night we were watching the finale of the Bachelorette (*snore*yawn*boo#teamBlake) and my friends were joking that I should apply for the next casting call. I laughed that I would be the worst contestant ever because all I would ever want to wear was faded, camera-hostile rumpled linen sacks for the entire duration of the show. And also because I would dig a hole under the mansion to hide from the cameras and all the dumb, manscaped contestants. And also I don't think they make linen evening gowns).

This Fiona Sundress is the closest I will come to a linen evening gown. And I am perfectly okay with that.

The sun was darting in and out of the clouds while we were shooting this, so forgive the fact that it looks like about 18 shades of green. In reality, it's a sprucey-olive-y green beauty I picked up at the Fabric Store in LA before they closed. It's a pretty lightweight linen so I wasn't sure how it would stand up to the structure of Fiona, but it's actually a match made in fabric/pattern heaven. It has enough body for all those seams and straps, but is so light and breathy it makes me feel like the physical manifestation of Jane Birkin singing on that Serge Gainsborough song. Je t'aime.

I've worn this tons and tons (it's been a great first date dress, of which I have had many lately, of which I can only make the sound of a long, drawn out and exasperated siiiiigh) but unfortunately never on its own. I made the total rookie mistake of fitting it with a bra on (I learned my lesson and warn against this in the pattern instructions) only to discover that gravity is as real and indisputable as the fact that most first dates are as painful as dental surgery without anesthesia. Braless and backless, the curve of the bust is a little too high for my free-as-a-bird ladies, so I'm resigned to layering it over t-shirts with a bra firmly on. I actually really like styling it this way, so I suggest it as an option for those of you who see a backless dress and shudder in gravity-averse horror.

I didn't have enough of these particular buttons to do the recommended 21 for the midi-length version (yes, I know that is a lot of buttons for all you buttonhole haters out there but hear me out....) so I tried to cheat and space out what I had at hand, resulting in only four along the bodice instead of five. This means there was no button placed at the widest part of the bust, resulting in gaping since the bodice is so fitted. My solution was to hand sew in a little snap at the widest point of the bust, and you can hardly notice it all. It's worth it to take the time and sew all those buttons, although for the midi you don't need to go all the way to the bottom; I left it unbuttoned a little in these pictures.

I'm looking forward to making another linen Fiona next summer, but I'll take the time and do a proper bra-less fitting so the bodice fits better for my free birds. I actually just picked up a few new colours at the Fabric Store since they're having a 20% off sale, and I have an addiction.

Are you as much of a linen maniac as I am? And can all you buttonhole haters chime in and tell me exactly why you hide under the bed whenever you hear the word? My machine makes lovely buttonholes so I'm not sure if you're having technical issues or something else. I'm all ears!

Details: Fiona Sundress in green linen (I think it might be this one?), Nisolo wedges, navy bandana, Nettie cropped tee, Firmoo shades)

Wiksten Oversized Kimono Jacket from Making Zine

10 January 2018 by Heather Lou 18 Comments

Since we stayed home for Christmas this year, the fella and I are off on vacation next week to LA where we'll be staying with friends (and I'll hopefully be learning to make sandals with Jasika Nicole!) I also decided to spend a few days in NYC on my way back to Montreal so I can attend a huge fabric convention (I'm a little nervous because I've heard this one is huge and incredibly overwhelming). What this means is a packing quandary; how do you pack for two weeks in warm, sunny California and cold, snowy New York in one small suitcase? I wanted to make a few easy transition pieces that would work in either climate, and the number one thing on my hit list was this oversized kimono jacket from the Making zine, designed by Jenny Gordy of Wiksten Patterns.

One of my big goals this year is to start making a dent in my stash (now meticulously organized and cataloged in our new stash closet). I've had this beautiful stretch twill tencel for a few months and decided it was the perfect neutral base for an easy coat I could throw on top of a dress (California) or layer with separates (NYC). I originally picked this fabric up locally at Globetex with the hope of making some soft tencel Sasha Trousers, but worried it was perhaps too lightweight for pants. Since this kimono pattern is fully lined, I figured I could stabilize some of the stretch in the fabric with a medium weight, non-stretch lining. I had a few fabrics in mind, but since this jacket is a bit of a fabric monster, I realized most of my two-yard choices weren't going to cut it; thankfully I lucked out and found a not-quite-but-nearly matching linen at Tonitex, another wholesaler in Montreal. I like how the fabrics complement each other; the tencel has a slight washed sheen, which plays nicely with the more organic texture of the linen.

I LOVE THIS PATTERN. Did I say that yet? LOVE LOVE LOVE IT. It's perfectly slouchy and oversized and the proportions are spot-on; easy to layer it's comfortable while still feeling pulled together. Guillaume is kind of obsessed with it and was wearing it around the house the other day with puppy dog please-make-it-for me eyes, but I think I'll be too busy plotting my next version for myself. I'm going to try and find a nice hefty cotton with a subtle print or texture; I think it will look totally different in a more structured fabric.

It sewed up super quickly, and I highly recommend picking up this issue of the magazine to get it, although you'll still have to download and print the pattern itself with the included link. The instructions are clear and easy to follow, and I had it on my grateful body within a few hours of starting. My only beef is that there wasn't a copyshop version available; now that we have a plotter printer in the office it seems silly to have to assemble letter sheets, but I read on Jenny's instagram that she is releasing this as a print pattern in the spring, so that is another option if you don't mind waiting.

This jacket is my everything. I want to wear it non-stop, stuffing those huge pockets with everything I could possibly need for the day. Who needs a purse when you can carry around the kitchen sink in your pockets?

Since I don't have a dedicated sewing room in my home anymore, I got everything cut and prepped at the studio so I could sew it over the holidays at my dining room table. After investing so much in my sewing set-up at the studio, it's kind of funny to sew at home like I did when I first started, with just the bare minimum. I do find it keeps me more organized and focused; I have to really think about what I'll need so I don't stall out when I'm home and realized I didn't bring any interfacing.

I also had plans to sew a few Mandy Boat and Ebony tees for my trip but I leave in two days and haven't had a chance to cut them out with all the admin I've been doing since the holidays. We'll see if I manage to get any panic sewing down before we leave.

Any tips for me while I'm in LA? I'll definitely be doing some fabric shopping but since I'm with G I'll have to keep it to a minimum. We've been researching fun places to go and see while they're there but I'd love to hear from some locals! Anything we shouldn't miss?

Outfit details: Oversized Kimono Jacket from Wiksten patterns, mid-rise Ginger jeans in Cone Denim, RTW tee, Blondo ankle booties

Last Breath of Summer: My Pink Linen Pants

12 October 2017 by Heather Lou 23 Comments

I'm still trying to get all the garments I made this year photographed before the cold sets in here in Montreal. Thankfully we got some pictures of these simple but awesome linen pants while it was still warm out.

I'm pretty obsessed with the cropped, wide leg pant trend happening right now; it looks great on everyone and it's a welcome alternative to the skinny legs I'm generally wearing. I decided I needed an elastic waisted version of this silhouette after spending a weekend with Kelly and pining over her easy, slouchy wardrobe. She made some similar pants in an oatmeal linen and they just looked so damn comfortable. I used to think elastic waists were an "I give up" clothing gesture, but I've since come around to their charms. There is something very appealing about not having anything dig into you all day long.

Isn't the colour of this linen amazing? I found it in San Francisco and got the last of the bolt. It has a little lycra in it so it's especially forgiving in pant form. The pattern is self-drafted; one of my personal sewing goals this year is to start tweaking my blocks when I have a specific design in mind. When I want an instant gratification project I often use existing patterns, but it's often quicker and easier to just draft it myself.

I meant to include some inseam pockets but I ended up screwing them up, so I just sewed up the side seams for the time being. It's more of a wearable muslin so I'll make sure to add them for my next pair, since I deeply regretted not having pockets every time I wore these. Which was all the time. These are the pants happy tummy dreams are made of.

I wore these non-stop this summer with cropped t-shirts - the rise is sort of an awkward length so proportionately they needed something shorter on top to balance them out. I think I'll add an inch or so to the rise of the next pair. Here I'm wearing them with a super simple linen top I made last year - linen on linen goodness.

These will be packed away until next summer since its already cooling down a lot here (I am still in denial and refuse to pull out my duvet just yet). I had plans to make a bunch of Lander pants this fall to feed my cropped pants addiction but now I'm wondering if I can rock an exposed ankle for that much longer.

Where do you stand on the cropped pants trend? An April-November romance or can it be achieved all winter long with the right socks?

Hadley Top from Grainline Studio in White Linen

13 September 2017 by Heather Lou 25 Comments

Next up in my series, "A million things I have sewn and not yet blogged": the Hadley Top by Grainline Studio!

This summer I realized I had hardly any tank tops. I don't have issues with my arms (those babies gotta breathe!) but for some reason, I just hadn't gotten around to sewing very many. Has anyone else discovered one of those weird unexplainable wardrobe black holes? I got so frustrated trying to pair separates on warmer days and needed to do something about it, stat. While I was wondering if I should finally jump on the Willow train, Grainline helpfully released the Hadley Top. I totally fell in love with the V-neck on Hadley; it's deep and gently curved and is super, super flattering. Jen is truly a master at refining the perfect detail. While Grainline patterns are mostly on the simple-to-sew spectrum, the proportions and design lines are always spot on.

I sewed up this Hadley in a luscious, bouncy white linen I found locally (the shop was out the last time I tried to buy more. Lesson learned; always buy the bolt of perfect linen). I wanted something super rumply and soft to throw on with jeans and shorts, and I love love love the texture of white linen; it's summer good times in a fabric.

I like the deep, curved hem and the topstitched center front and back seams of Hadley; they add a little architectural interest to a simple shape. I sewed up a size 10 but found it gaped a bit under the arm, so I ended up taking it in at the armscye to about a size 8, and then graded back to the 10 at the waist.

My only issue with the construction is the facings, which I have issues with generally; they're always flip flopping around if they aren't topstitched in place. In this case, the back arm facing was constantly peeking out, even after tacking it to the seams. It was driving me crazy until I finally handstitched everything down using tiny, invisible slip stitches. This means it doesn't need to be pressed into shape after washing and can keep that rumpled, linen texture I love so much. Next time around I'll draft an all in one facing like I did for my Farrow dress; it's slightly trickier to sew but the facings stay put.

This is definitely a new summer staple for me; I've worn it a dozen or so time since it left my machine, and it saw a lot of action in France. It's loose fitting but polished, so I always feel like I'm properly dressed even if I just throw a pair of shorts on. Also, I think it looks pretty fly paired with our Morgan Boyfriend Jeans. I tried to keep these samples unworn but I finally caved this summer and they've become my favourite pair.

Have you made the Hadley Top yet? Any other tank top suggestions for me? The season for it is ending but they're always great to wear under cardigans (another black hole in my wardrobe I need to do something about...)

Summer Sewing! The Flint Pants from Megan Nielsen

25 July 2017 by Heather Lou 34 Comments

Have you ever experienced sewing fate? You know when you have a very specific vision in mind for something you'd like to make, and then BOOM, a new pattern is released at almost the same moment you're having the idea, and it's more or less exactly what you had in mind? This is essentially what happened when Megan Nielsen released the Flint Pants this spring. Cropped wide legs pants are all the rage right now, and I was planning on drafting something for myself when Flint came along and saved me the trouble.

I know there are a few similar styles out there right now (I'm thinking of the Emerson Pants from True Bias and the Winslow Culottes from Helen's Closet) but Flint has the right rise and leg proportion for me. I also love the waist/pocket construction; the pants un-do in a way so that the pocket and waistband are completely integrated. Ironically, one of you took pictures of vintage shorts with a similar closure and sent them to me a few years back for possible inspiration. I've always had the idea batting around in my brain, but Megan realized it beautifully with this pattern.

I also love the button and waist tie options. I opted for the tie for this version, although this is actually my second pair of Flints. The first pair I made with camel coloured tencel and the button waistband, and while equally loved, the love is tempered by a major wedgie situation (I wore them one day at a Ginger workshop and realized I was continually, um, adjusting in class). For my second attempt, I scooped out the back seat curve about a 1/2" to make room for my prodigious booty; I can pretty easily make this change to the tencel pair but I haven't gotten around to it. These guys are made a with a soft, medium weight linen and I basically can't take them off, now that there is no cleaving happening against my will.

I know food, water and shelter are all basic human needs, but I'm gonna just put this out there: so is linen. It feels so good against your skin (especially after multiple washings) and keeps you cool when it' s so hot you want to just someone to follow you around with a sprinkler set to gentle mist. Even in linen, maybe big billowy pants seems like a weird warm weather staple, but I personally prefer the coverage. I like wearing shorts, but sometimes you just don't want the back of your thighs touching anything (especially chairs that dozens of other people have sat and sweat in, shudder), so a loose fitting pant like Flint in breathable fabric is kind of the perfect compromise.

And perhaps this is a controversial opinion, but I love the tuck/pleats at the waist, too. I have a bit of a tum, and I find super high waisted things can really accentuate it sometimes, especially fitted pants and skirts (though not with Ginger since they don't sit at the true natural waist). I think the pleats soften this area so you can't tell what's fabric and what's croissant. They won't make you look "skinny", but I'm not skinny and don't want to look skinny, although no body shame if you are indeed, skinny. I'm just saying, I don't mind some volume on top of my natural volume, okay?

Short of my seat scoopage, I didn't make any mods to the pattern. The fit is pretty perfect outta the gate, and I would highly recommend this pattern if you want the perfect drapey pants to wear with cropped or slim-fitting, tucked-in tees. I've been pairing mine with cropped linen tees for the full Elizabeth Suzann effect. One note I would make about construction, however; the instructions suggest clipping into the back seat curve if you're not serging it, and I would not recommend doing that. Seat curves get more stress than just about any seam on the body, and cutting close to it (especially with a loose weave like linen) could mean a split seam down the road. If you don't have a serger, I suggest trimming the seams to 3/8", serging or pinking and pressing open, or using a french seam.

So, are you fully on the Flint train or do you prefer a slimmer look? What have you been wearing to keep cool this season?

ps. Thank you so much for all your insight and kind words on my post last week about the current state of the blog. I really, really appreciate your support and brilliant suggestions, and am super excited to start having fun around here again!

pps. I am totally obsessed with my handmade espadrilles from Mumi Shoes. So comfy, so chic, so affordable.

The Farrow Dress by Grainline Studio in Kaufman Metallic Linen

22 March 2017 by Heather Lou 23 Comments

Heavens alive I love a shift dress, especially when they boast cool details or an interesting architectural silhouette. The latest pattern from Grainline boasts both, of course. A snappy a-line shape with deep, slanted pockets? Sign me up!

While I had a few plans for the Farrow dress, everything flew out the window when I was at Needlework in Hamilton for a Ginger Jeans workshop. The ladies had made up the pattern in this delightful black and gold metallic Kaufman Essex linen and after squeezing myself into their size 6 sample I decided to make the exact same thing, this time in a size 10.

Essex linen is a little on the stiff side, but I like how it emphasizes the structure of the dress. I also wanted something easy to wear to holiday parties, and nothing beats gold sparkles, plus no waist definition so you can eat and drink as much as you want, right?

I went sleeveless since it felt more "evening"; I think the high-low hem helps here too since it frames the legs nicely.

This was a fun, satisfying make. The pocket construction is unusual, and I love the simple but graphic impact of the diagonal seam lines. The biggest change I made was to the facings. I almost always prefer an all in one facing, so I quickly drafted one. Nothing worse than a flippy neck facing, I tell ya.

I think this dress is a great addition to my more minimalist wardrobe; its simple and chic and understated, and I've worn it a few times when I needed something dressy this winter. I'll probably try making one up with sleeves in the wintertime, since I have a real lack of warm dresses (I just pile sweaters on top of everything).

Have you made the Farrow yet? Anyone else seduced by metallic linen too?

Summer Staple // Self Drafted Linen Shirt Dress

10 August 2016 by Heather Lou 163 Comments

The nice thing about having a bunch of blocks and half drafted patterns sitting around (you have no idea how many things I have started playing with and then discarded like a baby with amnesia) is that when you have a vision of a very particular simple dress stuck in your head, it probably won't take that long to just draft it yourself.

pssst... As of April 2017, this dress is now a pattern! You can snag it in our shop here.

The original incarnation of this pattern was actually a shirt dress project from way back last year; I was inspired by the look of women in oversized men's oxford shirts (nothing sexier in my opinion... nothing). It's still an idea I love and may dust off one day, but my original drafts made the perfect base for this particular shirt dress. I wanted something super lightweight and loose fitting that would look great in linen, and be easy to wear during my travels this summer.

I couldn't be happier with it if it woke me up every morning with a cup of strong tea and a croissant. It's the absolute 100% perfect thing to wear when it's so hot you want to cry, I can dress sit it up or down, and because it's made from a beautiful creamy white linen, I feel like Meryl Streep in Out of Africa but minus all the problematic neo-colonial undertones.

It is also easily the most complimented thing I've ever made; I've been chased down the street to ask where I got it. "My Bernina" isn't the most helpful reply, sorry ladies.

The construction is pretty simple. It has a banded kimono sleeve with a classic shirt collar. What's unique is the deeply curved hem, an exaggerated version of a men's shirt hem. It's so curved that it had to be finished with matching bias tape rather than the typical fold press and stitch hem (if I change anything I might shorten the back by just a smidge). I also extended the back yoke into the sleeve and drafted an extra wide back pleat; I like how fluid and sculptural it feels from behind.

I was so happy to have it in Barcelona when it got uncomfortably hot and sticky, and even happier that I packed a pair of bike shorts to wear with it (I don't know when my inner thighs became allergic to humidity, but the chaffing is NO JOKE).

Heat rash aside, I'm looking forward to making a dozen more next summer, in every shade of linen available. Because.

What do you think of this dress/pattern? What's your secret summer weapon (besides bike shorts?)

Details: Self drafted linen shirt dress, handmade Greek sandals from Etsy

The Perfect Outfit: Inari Tee + Brume Skirt

1 July 2016 by Heather Lou 37 Comments

I was doing laundry the other day and realized that because of the sewing bender I've been on, I have approximately 48 things I've made recently that I haven't had a chance to share. 48 might be an exaggeration but it certainly feels that way; I can barely walk into my closet/laundry room due to all the clothes hanging in odd and inconvenient places as a visual reminder to myself to photograph what I've been up to. Which means I have approximately 48 things I've made but won't let myself wear, because if I wear them without documenting them first, it's inevitable that I will spill red wine down them within 5 minutes, even if its 9am and there is no red wine in my house. The red wine will somehow materialize. This is how it goes.

So basically my new summer wardrobe is angry and taunting me and this week I decided to do something about it. Wear the clothes. And then photograph the clothes. No red wine to be seen, anywhere.

This here is my new favourite outfit and I am very sad I made it wait in my closet for a solid month. It's totally perfect for summer which means comfy + neutral + linen. It's part of my increasingly troubling addiction to linen. If I had my way I would go through life encased in a linen cocoon. Forever. I've gone through at least 15 meters of the stuff since the weather started warming up and I have no intention of stopping. If linen left track marks my forearms would be SO casually wrinkly right now.

This little white crop top is made from the Inari tee pattern, which I've obsessively documented my love for here, here and here. I had a scant yard of this creamy linen goodness left after making a recent shirt dress (also yet to be blogged) so I decided to whip up a little something to wear with all of the high waisted things. The proportions are absolutely perfect. I love where it sits at the waist and how it dips back ever so slightly in the back. My bias tap neckline isn't laying absolutely flat but I can't be bothered to care because I'm wearing linen and linen is the Xanax of fabric. Everything is all gooooood.

The skirt is another recent favourite. I loved the Brume Skirt pattern when Deer & Doe released it last year - such interesting style lines on such a simple silhouette! I bought a few D&D patterns this spring and made sure to to include this one in my cart. It's designed for knits, and I decided to try and use the crazy thick textured double knit I bought last fall when I was in Vancouver. I had initially tried to use it to make super warm and thick Sewaholic Pacific leggings but that was a complete and utter disaster - the knit was WAY to heavy-duty for leggings and it ended up giving me the saddest saggy crotch you've seen since MC Hammer stopped getting royalty checks. I figured the knit would be better suited to something with just a tiny but more structure, and I was right because this fabric/pattern combo makes me very, very happy.

I love the way the subtle chevron pattern in the fabric ended up working; the yoke piece wraps around the hip creating a beautiful diagonal line - a total accident I didn't' realize until the entire thing was assembled! I would definitely suggest trying stripes with this pattern for that reason.

Paired together I think they're kind of perfect. The wide hem of the top is just right for the close fit of the skirt, and it's the kind of outfit that's comfy enough to wear all day in the studio. I'm always hunting for secret pajamas and this definitely meets the bill.

We're heading up to Vermont this weekend so I'll be packing the car with more of those sad, lonely outfits that have been hanging in my closet; it's simply not a vacation if I don't force Guillaume to take pictures of me trying to look casual in rural locations.

What's your favourite summer outfit? Am I the only one with crazy out of control sewing mojo right now? I can't seem to stop!

ps. My AMAZING new shades are from Firmoo if you're curious - mirrored prescription shades for $39! I hate wearing contacts so I picked up a few different pairs of prescription sunnies last month. You can get 15% off your order using this link.

Details: Inari crop tee in white linen, Deer & Doe Brume skirt in mystery knit, Sven halter clogs, Lipstick: Mac Lady Danger, Firmoo shades

(Yet Another) Named Inari Dress in Striped Linen

14 January 2016 by Heather Lou 28 Comments

So it's time to admit it... I think the Inari dress has officially entered the pantheon of TNT patterns for me. This makes #3, all in linen (there is also one in black and one in blue) and I haven't even tried a knit version yet! I suspect it would be stupendous in a nice sturdy double knit or scuba, of which I curently have several, because hoarding.

If this fabric looks familiar, it's because I used it to make those beautiful napkins & tea towels for my in-laws. When Guillaume realized it was the same fabric, he made a lot of jokes about using me to wipe off his hands every time I wore the dress over the holidays. Which was almost all the time, because overeating. You need loose shift dresses at Christmas when cheese finishes every epic meal . It's mandatory. [Read more...]

Moto Chic Jacket from SBCC Patterns

24 September 2015 by Heather Lou 48 Comments

I'm writing this post from the sofa of a near and dear friend (I've been sleeping on it), halfway through a busy and beautiful tour of Canada's west coast. There have been hikes, wine giggles, sushi, a little rain, meetings with sewing friends, and so so so much coffee (I've been spamming instagram with pictures of mountains and oceans if you're curious). There has also been near constant heartburn which I always and only seem to get the minute I go on vacation. I think it's a Type A allergic reaction to leisure.

I had an overly ambitious plan to sew a travel capsule wardrobe before I left, but I only managed to make two of the dozen or so projects I had jotted down in a sewing fever dream. This linen baby was one of them. I was in need of a sleek little coat to feel put together while living out of a suitcase, and for the approximately one and a half weeks of appropriately cool weather I can expect upon my return to Montreal at the end of the month. Thankfully, it's Sewing Indie Month and I had an excuse to finally tackle the "bucket list" Moto Chic Jacket from SBCC patterns. Betsy sent me the pattern and I experimented with adding some rock n' roll zippers at the wrist; the tutorial is live on her blog now.

There are a few motorcycle jacket patterns out there but I love the soft ruffle on this one - it nips in the waist and gives you a very va-va-voom shape, especially from the back. That combination of hard and soft will always be alluring. I made her with a lovely herringbone linen I bought in a huge Craigslist haul a few years back. It's the same stuff I used for the zipper tab on my Cascade coat and it's lovely stuff; medium weight with a crisp hand and basically in lust with the iron. Rather than a silk or bemberg lining, I went for fun with a bright cotton wax print voile from Vlisco. All the various zips came from my zipper box.

The zipper at the sleeve is a fun detail, and I love how it looks against the bright pop of the lining.

The drafting for this pattern is pretty much impeccable. Betsy is a master draftswoman and it shows - the sleeve is a thing of beauty. Since she drafts for petites, I did have to make a few tweaks to the pattern. I lengthened the body by 1" and the sleeves by 1/2"; I think the overall fit is pretty good considering I forwent a muslin.

As far as jackets go, I found this project pretty speedy since there is no real tailoring, per se. The sleeves had barely any ease built in (LOVE) so setting those babies in was a snap. The trickiest part was probably installing the zipper and bagging the lining since the hip ruffle stymied my usual method. I had to do quite a bit of hand stitching at all the weird little corners my machine couldn't reach. The instructions lean towards the sparse side, so I would recommend this pattern for more intermediate stitchers; if you've had experience making jackets before, you shouldn't have a problem figuring it out.

I've been wearing it A LOT on this trip and feel super chic even when I'm sleeping on couches and air drying my hair because apparently you west coast granola types (I'm speaking directly to my best friends right now) DON'T HAVE HAIRDRYERS. *east coast shuddering*. I also failed to bring any kind of rain coat on this trip, so hopefully Portland and Seattle won't be too cold when I'm there next week (if only I could have zipped up the new Cypress Cape from Sewaholic for my trip!) Are you working on any transitional outerwear at the moment?

Summer Uniform // Inari Tee Dress In Linen (Again)

11 August 2015 by Heather Lou 62 Comments

I'm not the tattoo type (too commitment phobic and paranoid about being accidentally frozen in an iceberg and later studied by future generations) BUT, if I was, I would get a little 5/8" seam ruler stamped on my index finger, and then somewhere I'd look everyday and be reminded, some cursive script saying "If it works, work it". Because sometimes you need to be reminded that you don't need to reinvent the wheel when it's turning just fine on it's own.

What was working for me this summer was the black Inari dress I wore so much it's already starting to fade. What was also working for me was linen, which I bought even more of during an impulse Michael Levine shopping spree. By my logic, if it ain't broke, make more of them.

The Inari Tee is definitely becoming a TNT pattern. I really just love how easy the shape is, with enough sly, sophisticated detail to make it feel a little more special than your average shift dress. I'll be whipping up the crop top variation before summer is completely over, believe you me, and I may even get brave and dip into my psychedelic Vlisco wax print stash for something that borders on "whoooooaaaaa!!!!!" Or perhaps a Keanu "whoa?"

I've never shopped at Michael Levine before, but I had fallen in love with this sweater knit because of Dandelion Drift, so figured I'd dip more than a toe into the pool. I was curious about the Essex cotton/linen blend, so I got a few yards of this denim colorway. It's got a lot more body than the black linen I had used for my previous make, but as a result it holds it's shape really well, making the cocoon shape of the pattern more pronounced, and obviously not wrinkling quite as much as 100% linen.

I wanted to sass this project up a little with some contrast topstitching and was wooed by a good deal on neon serger thread at my notions shop. A single stitch wasn't very impactful, so for the first time ever (I know, I know) I experimented with my machine's triple stitch. Basically this just makes a regular straight stitch but sews each one three times, creating a much denser line of stitching. The yellow popped a lot more and gives the simple shape a little more something-something.

ps. If you're making jeans and having trouble using topsticthing thread, try regular thread with a triple stitch! It takes a little longer to sew but mimics the look and provides more reliable tension.

Otherwise, construction was pretty simple. I did a bias neckline using some storebought stuff in my stash, topstitched the cuffs rather than slipstitching them in place, and added a bar tack at the top of the leg slit to provide a little reinforcement.

Also, you may have noticed my new shades. I have a bad cheap sunglass collecting habit, but realized this year I rather desperately needed prescription sunnies since I rarely wear my contacts. While I had a my eye on a few pairs at Warby Parker (these ones in particular), I was super happy to discover that Firmoo started carrying cool frames this summer. I bought my last pair of eyeglasses with them and the prices are so good you kind of want to paintball your optometrist's office with their 1000% markup. I ended up getting these ones with prescription lenses for under $50 and I am super happy with the quality, in case you're in the market.

Have you discovered a new TNT pattern this summer? Would you be willing to give neon topstitching a try? All ears over here.

Details: Inari tee dress in Essex linen, Firmoo shades, zipper earrings from Oona, shoes from Payless many moons ago, Mac Good to Go lipstick

Named Inari Tee Dress In Soft Linen

10 July 2015 by Heather Lou 48 Comments

I haven't really had a thought out, wardrobe architectured plan for my summer sewing; it's been pretty improvisational around here these days. Flying by the seat of your pants doesn't generally yield consistent, unified results, but I've surprised myself by making a fairly cohesive summer capsule wardrobe this summer, something made clear when I started packing for a friends wedding this weekend and everything just worked together.

Here's what I am more or less wearing every day:

1. Various iterations of Sallie, in dress and jumpsuit form. I cropped one sample to wear with flats, and just picked up a navy linen knit and gorgeous watercolour floral rayon for yet another dress.

2. Slightly fancier summer dresses for picnics, cocktails and the like. My black linen Lonsdale has been worn at least once a week, and I just made a graphic Sophia dress for the wedding tomorrow, one I'm sure to be wearing again this summer.

3. Loose fitting tunic dresses for mega hot days and running errands in the neighborhood. Preferably in linen. With luck, made from the Inari Tee dress pattern by Named.

This is a brilliant pattern. It's the second time I've sewn a Named design, and while I continue to be mildly annoyed by their PDF layouts (only in two sizes, not properly nested) I'm becoming really impressed with their eye for silhouette, proportion and cool, original details. At first glance this pattern is incredibly simple; it's basically a sack dress with no darts to speak of. But the fit is spot on (loose fitting and slouchy without saying "I've given up") and I love the subtle cocoon shaping in the side seams, the angled slit at the thigh, the slightly high/low hem, and the cuffed sleeve. It is chic and modern and oh so easy to wear.

The clogaholics among you may have spotted my new/old beauts. They're vintage Italian guys from Italy. My heart stopped for one perfect minute when I saw them at the vintage store. The fact that they actually fit these size 9 dogs felt like a minor miracle, or clog kismet.

Back to the dress. I zipped this up in an evening using the same linen I used for my Lonsdale. I made a size 8, grading to a little larger than a 10 at the hip. All the seams are finished using my beloved Juki (which I just reviewed here), and I skipped the facing in favour of a bias bound neckline using self fabric. I was especially pleased with the fit through the shoulder - I often have issues with gaping since I'm a little narrow up there, but this was perfect from minute one. A super easy, satisfying make, well suited to my jazzy improv sewing style this summer. I've worn and washed it enough that's it already starting to get that slightly faded, well loved patina that linen gets over time. Also? Soft as hell.

I have plans to make a few more of these, maybe even with one of my new Vlisco wax print acquisitions if I'm feeling bold. Next time I'll be sure to reinforce the slit hem with a little bar tack, but otherwise, this pattern is going in the canon.

Has anyone else made Inari yet? Are you on the sack dress train too? Let's all be chic and lazy together.

Black Linen Love: Lonsdale Dress By Sewaholic

16 June 2015 by Heather Lou 87 Comments

I'm rather ashamed to admit this, but I used to have a linen hang-up. I associated it with sweaty oversized shirts worn by men on holiday vacations, and baggy wrinkled shapeless sacks worn by art teachers with statement necklaces. But something funny has happened over the last few years; linen (and wearing shapeless sack dresses with statement necklaces) has grown on me. Grown on me like an invasive ivy. Someone will have to come and hack off its tendrils in September or else its just going to take over the entire building.

It started in bed, as so many things do. I became obsessed with linen bedding. Looking at sexily rumpled linen sheets made my eyes water with longing and I ended up acquiring a linen duvet cover from Ikea that after many, many washes is one of the softest, coziest, skin pleasing things I own. Last year I started dabbling in linen clothing, making a Flora dress and Katy and Laney Tap Shorts but it was still a very casual, low maintenance habit. It wasn't until my linen Holly Jumpsuit that it started getting more serious, although thankfully summer ended before I could start pawning my belongings for more yardage. This year things took a turn. I bought 10 yards of gorgeous medium weight white and black linen from one of my dealers on St. Hubert and have been steadily mainlining it ever since. Thank goodness linen doesn't leave track marks. This Lonsdale dress from Sewaholic Patterns is all about the arms.

I love the Lonsdale, and made it up a few summers ago in a vintage cotton print. I unfortunately got a little overzealous when I was fitting that one and took WAY too much off the side seams, resulting in something I can only refer to as Pancake Uniboob From Hell. I love that dress but I got depressed each time I looked down and saw a board where my ladies used to be. I decided I needed to rectify the situation with a new take. My linen habit needed a fix.

This time around I made a straight size 10 and left the side seams as is. The bodice of this pattern is unique because it's closely fitting without darts; the shaping comes from the knot, so you really need to do a full muslin to see how it's going to react with your chest. In my case it was totally fine, but Tasia wrote a post on doing an FBA to this pattern if you're worried about it. The only modification I made was to shorten the bodice by 1/2" since I found it a touch too long as drafted. I also deleted the bow at the back since I didn't have a lot of yardage and that super long strap is a fabric hog. I intended to attach the straps to the back with concealed buttons but I didn't leave quite enough length so they're sewn down for now. This may be a problem once it's washed and needs to be ironed around the bust knot, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. And by cross that bridge, I mean hit with a heavy dose of steam from my gravity feed iron.

I sewed in a little hook and eye but I couldn't reach it on my own when I was wearing it the day I took pictures, so forgive the little gap at the top of the zipper. Construction wise I used an invisible zipper and serged all my seams. I finished the hem with wine coloured lace tape I had in my stash; it's a funny little 90's goth detail. I also closed the waistband by stitching in the ditch from the outside rather than hand sewing it closed because #lazyseamstress. I whipped this baby up in an afternoon and basically just want to wear it to all the picnics now.

As for the rest of the black linen I scored, only scraps remain. I managed to squeeze out another dress AND an oversized 80's croptop I need to get around to documenting. I'll turn to the white linen next; I'm hoping it's thick enough that I'll be able to make at least one shapeless art teacher sack dress from it without having to wear a slip beneath. And I *may* have purchased even more linen, including a linen knit that I am VERY excited about this week, so you know, the addiction rages on.

And you? Are you as crazy for this stuff as I am? Or do all the wrinkles give your OCD a case of hives?

Details: Lonsdale dress by Sewaholic in black linen (similar here), Hasbeens Federica clogs, Revlon Colorburst Matte Balm in Mischevious

The Holly Jumpsuit

9 September 2014 by Heather Lou 50 Comments

Just looking at these photos is making me a little sad. Is it just me, or do summers get shorter and shorter with each passing year? As much as I love layering and being cozy in the fall, there is nothing quite like that perfectly effortless summer favourite you can just throw on and walk out the door.

The Holly Jumpsuit was that garment for me this summer. I pretty much spazzed out when I heard that the By Hand Ladies were releasing a jumpsuit, since nothing makes me happier than 70's vibes, and nothing is more 70's than a one-piece (since it's the new millennium we can leave the polyester with the 8 tracks). Sarah at Grey's Fabric was kind enough to supply me with this navy linen-rayon. It was the perfect weight for Holly - drapey and soft with enough body to highlight the lovely wide legs of this baby.

Guillaume and I shot these while we were in Maine in June, after an afternoon of lobster eating and beer swilling. The water was too cold to do anything but admire, but I'm happy it matched my outfit.

As you've probably heard by now, the bodice variation I used is no longer available in the official release. I was hoping to sew up the sexy cowl version but I haven't had a chance yet. I'm waiting for my paper copy; it's the lead contender for my cousin's upcoming wedding. I'm also imagining a Flora/Holly mashup - I think the tank version of the Flora would give a similar feel to what I'm rocking here.

I dropped the crotch about an inch, but I've heard there was a grading error with the copy I was sent which accounts for why I thought it was a little tight up in my bits. Otherwise I was quite happy with the fit of the pants though the original length only allows me to wear these with flats. I suggest checking the length of the inseam if you want to wear Holly with heels. I have some awesome herringbone chambray I bought from Grey's that will make a lovely pair of summer weight Holly trousers for next year.

Since I tested for this pattern, I also sent my usual notes about any typos or clarifications I thought the instructions needed. By Hand just wrote a post about their testers here, if you're interested.

I wore this at least once a week all summer long. Linen is just so comfortable and breathable when it's hot and sweaty out, and I always felt chic in this, even when the humidity was so thick I could scoop it in my hands. Finally, I'd like to say that this is actually pretty easy to get in and out of. Sometimes jumpsuits are a little complicated to take off when you're heeding the call of nature, but the side zipper makes it pretty snappy. Just in case you were wondering, you can breathe and pee easy.

Katy & Laney Tap Shorts Blog Tour

12 June 2014 by Heather Lou 37 Comments

If you read Katy & Laney's blog (whom I discovered last year and quickly grew to love for their fresh style and tag team excellence) you may have heard that they just released their first pattern. They got in touch a few months ago to see if I'd be interested in testing their high waisted, vintage inspired Tap Shorts. While I tested the pattern pre-release, what I am sharing with you now is my honest, personal opinion of the design, and how I made them.

In lieu of last week's posts and ensuing conversation, I was almost reluctant to join this blog tour. I had to remind myself that this is a personal space to share what I'm working on, and that if I like something I make, I want to share it with you. Because I very much like this pattern. If I didn't, I wouldn't be writing this post.

How did the testing work? They sent me the pattern, I made up a size 10 and sent them my comments. Nothing major, mostly notes on clarifying certain instructions. I was very happy with the overall design; mine came out a touch big at the waist and I brought that to their attention. That's about it.

I made my Tap Shorts using a scant 2 yards of a super lightweight pinstriped linen I picked up in San Francisco last year. The initial pattern I was sent only included the pleated variation; they later added the fly front and angled seam options so I can't comment on those, but I would very much like to go to town on the angled seam version this summer, perhaps in a heavier weight fabric like cotton upholstery. Construction wise, it was a pretty fast make. I serged all my seams and inserted an invisible zip at the side as instructed. The waistband facing was hand sewn on the inside.

The pleats are accomplished by basting in a long diagonal dart and then removing the basting thread. Because my linen is very lightweight and uber wrinkly, I found the pleat didn't hold it's shape well by the end of the day. I experimented with ironing only part of the pleat, and fell in love with the volume it created.

Normally women avoid any kind of poof around their hips. It's counter-intuitive, but I think in this case, it doesn't scream HUGE HIP ALERT as much as it creates a floaty, ethereal summer fun hip party. At least that's how I feel wearing them.

I skipped the optional back welt pockets which I think I will add next time. It breaks up the butt, visually. I ended up taking in the waist about a half inch on each side so it sits at my narrowest point. Apparently not everyone had the same issue but they updated the finished garment measurements - take a look at that to ensure you have your preferred ease. I was initially worried they were too short and lengthened them by about an inch, but I found they looked a little dowdy so I ended up going back to the original length, which I'm actually quite comfortable with. I find it's easy to go short when you have a little volume. Short and tight is where things get problematic for me (cough *cellulite* cough).

Overall, I quite love these tap pants! When I walked out of my dressing room before we took photos, Guillaume said "Wow baby! I could totally take you to Versailles in that outfit. You look so chic and Parisian!" And that my friends, is why you fall in love with French men.

These will likely be my new go-to "It's so hot I want to tape icepacks to my thighs" shorts. Super floaty and light as air. And don't think I haven't thought about pairing them with a Nettie crop top. BECAUSE I HAVE!

Photos by Guillaume Gilbert

Linen Obsessed

15 April 2014 by Heather Lou 111 Comments

I'm one of those people who get obsessed with new ideas and have a hard time thinking about anything else. Even though I'm trying to finish work on the new pattern, I can't stop googling.... linen.

You might remember one of my last projects was a linen dress. It was the first time I had ever worked with the fabric and I LOVED sewing with it. Even though it was a heavyweight upholstery, there was something so organic and sensual about the feeling of it in my hands.

I've been in dire need of a new duvet cover for a while. I've got so much on my plate these days I came very close to pulling the trigger on one from Ikea, but I have a hard time buying things I suspect I should be making. I started thinking about how lovely a lightweight, warm grey linen duvet cover would be.... and thus fell down the linen rabbit hole. I hope I don't suck you into my vortex with the following images.

linen sheets, linen duvet, DIY sheets, DIY bedding — Sources: 1 2 3 4 5

I haven't been this filled with longing for anything since I can remember (not counting my daily earning for Vitamin D). All the reading I've been doing about linen bedding isn't helping, either. Cool in the summer, warm in the winter, linen sheets get softer and cozier as they age and can last a lifetime. The naturally dyed tones are very appealing as well, as my love of monochrome seems to be taking over my life. And I can't get over how cozy and sexy those rumpled beds look. This may be my recent case of insomnia talking, but those beds look like a heaven I would never want to leave....

So, the sewist dilemma. To make or to buy? I figured out a standard duvet cover would take a minimum of 6 yards, plus more for matching shams. That, plus the cost of shipping, means somewhere in the neighborhood of $100. Sheets are trickier, since you don't want a seam running down the center. I've only found one source for 120" wide lightweight linen and at another 6-7 yards, it's going to be at least $150 for the material alone. *Sounds of me crying in my worthless cotton-sheeted bed*

On the other hand, there seem to be a number of high quality linen bedding suppliers on Etsy.... peep this gorgeousness....

HANDMADE LINEN BEDDING

Most of these sellers are operating out of Europe (primarily Eastern Europe) and are often much cheaper than what you'd get at Restoration Hardware, so if you do want to buy, at least you'd be supporting a small business.

I know it's the kind of luxury I'd enjoy for years but I'm having a hard time deciding whether to buy or make. On that note...

Does anyone have any tips for sourcing high quality, reasonably priced linen? It seems difficult to find fabric wide enough to make sheets with. I don't mind seams on the duvet, but I'm not sure if it's better to go with a light or medium weight and I'm not sure what to be looking for to ensure it's the right weave and quality for bedding.

Have you ever slept on linen? Are the tactile fantasies I am currently consumed with grossly unrealistic?

Have you ever made your own sheets? Was it worth the effort?

Dish please!