A Post-Modern Rachel Comey Jumpsuit in Brown Silk

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A thing you should know about me: I am obsessed with Rachel Comey. Hands down one of my favorite independent designers, her work is constantly inspiring. It's artful and unexpected, with cuts and proportions you don't see anywhere else (I highly suggest reading this profile or listening to this podcast to learn more about her). One of my favourite things to do in New York is wander around her Soho shop and lovingly fondle all the beauties and try on all the shoes, which is not nearly as stressful as you'd think given how friendly and welcoming the staff is.

Since her clothing is pretty far outside my budget, it fills me with joy that she licenses some of her designs with Vogue Patterns. I read somewhere that the licensing doesn't generate much income, but that she loves home sewing so much she's happy to share her designs with people who may not otherwise be able to enjoy her work.

Swooning, Rachel. You are making me swoon.

I collect her patterns every time a new one is released, and have made up this fabulously weird dress, this iconic skirt (one of my favourite skirt designs ever) and this quirky dress. There is always a unique detail or sculptural element, something that makes it feel idiosyncratic and one of a kind. So, it's not much a surprise I basically dropped everything in my life to work on Vogue 1645 this winter. Somewhere between a wrap dress and a jumpsuit, it's got all the hallmarks of classic Comey. After seeing makes by Erica and Mimi, I knew it had to be MINE.

Rachel Comey DIY Jumpsuit // pattern Vogue 1546 // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Rachel Comey DIY Jumpsuit // pattern Vogue 1546 // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

I picked up this glorious brown silk in Paris on my couture tour. It's got a lovely, hefty weight, with enough structure to hold up to some of these details but enough drape to feel like I'm wearing liquid toffee. I've been gravitating towards these earthier shades lately; I think of them as shades of Ebony, my sewing bestie who somehow always manages to make brown look like the most exciting colour you've ever laid eyes on.

I'm not gonna lie - this jumpsuit was a REAL JOURNEY. The construction is a bit bananas with that overlap, and I am so so so happy I made a muslin first since it let me figure out the best way to put it together. I ended up paying the instructions half a mind, since I thought there was a more logical way to assemble things, but I had a lot of empathy for whatever technical designer at Vogue had to write these instructions. The construction of this would have caused a lot of hair-pulling if we had to figure it out here in our studio.

I made the large size, which fit decently through the body but needed a lot of tweaking. Wrap dresses are kind of my bete noir in that I always need to remove tons of length through the center front to prevent gaping. Here I removed a wedge across the bust and ended up having to rip apart the nearly finished jumpsuit at the end to remove even more through the shoulder (one day we will release a gap-free wrap dress: it's my mission!) On all the finished jumpsuits I saw, the armhole looked dangerously low, so I raised the band under the arm over an inch, in addition to raising the dart which fell a bit low on me. It's still a bit ripply across the bust, but I suspect it was because of how often I had to rip out the facing when I kept missing the edge while topstitching. Thankfully this silk was pretty sturdy and handled all that seam ripping like a champ.

Rachel Comey DIY Jumpsuit // pattern Vogue 1546 // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Rachel Comey DIY Jumpsuit // pattern Vogue 1546 // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

The insides gave me the most consternation. Since my focus this year is on quality, I was committed to finishing the miles of seams with bias bound silk. It was a lot of work, but I am happiest when I have a long, involved project to work. I spent a few weeks off an on with this project, finishing a seam here, a pocket there. I found a pretty meter of patterned crepe in the stash for bias that perfectly complemented the silk. My biggest regret was the width of bias tape I made - it ended up being super narrow at less than a 1/4", so it was super tricky to sew to sew and I ended up having to go over it several times in places to make sure the seam was fully enclosed. Lesson learned: always use the 3/4" bias tape maker, not the dreaded 1/2"!

Let's take a look at dem guts:

Rachel Comey DIY Jumpsuit // pattern Vogue 1546 // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Rachel Comey DIY Jumpsuit // pattern Vogue 1546 // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

I didn't have enough fabric to cut out the armscye facings (it was a real squeaker when I cut it out) so I used a  bit of silk voile. It's a bit janky where it's attaches to the seams but you can't tell from the outside so I'm not going to lose sleep.

The funnest part was making this pretty fabric-covered belt buckle. I've never used one of these buckle kits before but it was pretty easy to do and I love how cohesive it looks with all the hardware in the same colour.

Rachel Comey DIY Jumpsuit // pattern Vogue 1546 // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Rachel Comey DIY Jumpsuit // pattern Vogue 1546 // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

I ended up wearing this on New Years and it somehow managed to survive having white wine poured all over it (by me, ahem). I love wearing silk but I hate the inevitable watermarks; this silk must be woven with some kind of witchy spell because you can't even see the wine damage. I'm also happy it doesn't wrinkle nearly as much as you'd think - must have something to do with the weight, which I suspect is a 4-ply crepe. I'm hoping to wear it next weekend for my birthday, sans bra, since I couldn't find a bra that didn't end up peeking out.

What do you think of this wacky jumpsuit? Anyone have any Rachel Comey sewing tales to share?

 

My Zadie Jumpsuit

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Sometimes a sewing pattern really connects; you'll start seeing it all over your instagram feed, and even if you weren't planning on making it yourself, enough cute versions popping up that you eventually find yourself jumping on the bandwagon. Such was the case with the Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory.

Is it just me, or has The Jumpsuit supplanted The Dress as the no muss-no fuss option when you don't want to think too much about you're going to wear? I love me some separates, but there is something so easy about a great jumpsuit, and Zadie is a lovely option. It can be dressed up or down, and it's deeply comfortable; the adjustable waist tie means you can give yourself some room if you're overdosing on watermelon like I've been lately.

Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsZadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsZadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

I was inspired by Fiona's denim Zadie, so I chose a lovely, drapey hemp-based denim from Blackbird Fabrics (they sold out of the one I used but I think this is similar). I love this fabric - it's light and cozy and doesn't wrinkle much, perfect for packing when you're traveling.

This was a very fun project to sew. The neckline is finished with double-fold bias tape, not a technique I've used in this application before but I like the finished effect. The fit is pretty roomy, so I ended up choosing a size based on my bust and then didn't grade up through the hip since there seemed like there was more than enough ease.

Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsZadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsZadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

The consensus seemed to be that the crotch runs a bit long, so I removed an inch from the rise; I probably could have taken another 1/2" but I'm happy with the fit overall. I love the neckline - wraps ALWAYS gape on me but this has a nice flattish shoulder seam which helps the wrap hug the bust. I found them a touch short, so I lengthened them for my second version (which I started cutting out almost immediately after this version was done).

Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsZadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsZadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

Needless to say, this Zadie has gotten a LOT of wear this summer. It's just easy and comfortable and works for park hangs or first dates. For my second version, I'm using a black cupro after seeing a gorgeous version from Kelli at True Bias. I'm hoping to finish it this weekend.

Have you made Zadie yet? What's your favourite jumpsuit pattern?

A Jumpsuit You Can See From Space: the Sierra Jumpsuit from Papercut Patterns

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Hola! Heather here, sharing one of my recent makes, one in a long line of jumpsuits. I've long been an advocate for jumpsuits (our Sallie and Amy patterns see a lot of daily love from me) so I'm always on board to try a new pattern. Yes, we can all agree, they make going to the bathroom a mild inconvenience, and I've never known terror like the jiggling doorknob in a restaurant bathroom when you're naked from the knees up. One day that door is going to open, and I can imagine myself yelling "I'm wearing a jumpsuit! I don't pee naked!" at some unsuspecting human.

Today's jumpsuit du jour is the Sierra from Papercut Patterns. I purchased this one pretty quickly when their last collection launched, and made it in time for my trip the American South this winter. Itt's been a good pal when I need a jolt of colour to cheer myself up, and it's one of those pieces that gets a ton of compliments whenever I'm wearing it.

Sierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsSierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

I've had this lovely vibrant linen (in what I know consider a signature colour) in the stash for a while and I don't remember where it came from. My feeling is The Fabric Store, but they don't seem to carry this colourway anymore. It's washed into something super soft and cozy, and I can't imagine anything better to wear on a warm day.

I looked a lot of finished versions on Instagram and determined the rise was a bit too long, so when I muslinned it I ended up shortening the front rise about 3/4", although I think the whole rise could come up another 1/2" or so since I find it a touch too long. I also wish I had followed my instincts and taken in the hips a bit. It's not super obvious in these photos, but they are a touch wide for my taste; I need to rip out the pockets at some point and shave down this area. I also raised the arm opening about 3/4" since I found it too low, and shortened the front pieces at the wrap area since wraps ALWAYS gape on me. I can't remember if I took out a wedge or squared off the shoulder, but hot tip: if you have a gapey wrap front, the easiest solution is to remove the angle from the front shoulder seam to shorten and pull the wrap closer to the body.

Sierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

To be honest, this was a bit of a struggle to make. I found the instructions pretty confusing, especially with the wrap front. I think labelling those pieces as left/right would have made it easier to see how everything came together, so I recommend doing so before you get started and then annotating the instructions to save yourself the same headache.

Sierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core PatternsSierra Jumpsuit in yellow linen by Papercut Patterns // Handmade by Closet Core Patterns

Have you made the Sierra yet? What's your favourite jumpsuit pattern these days?

Details: Sierra Jumpsuit by Papercut patterns, Sunglasses from Firmoo, Nisolo sandals (although they seem to be out of stock)

My Amy Jumpsuit in Striped Linen

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I think lightweight linen time is officially over for me... I woke up yesterday to a 4 degree morning (that's 39F to my American neighbors) which required many layers and a few curse words to leave the house. So, looking at pictures of this Amy Jumpsuit in the perfect summer-weight linen makes me already nostalgic for a season that is only barely just over. Maybe it's because of how frequently I wore this number, how attached we became. It's like saying goodbye to that person you became best friends with almost as soon as you met.

I made this jumpsuit midway through our pattern development process. Once a design has been graded I try to make at least one sample in my size; I then wear said sample as often as possible without grossing the people in my life out. I'm testing for fit, comfort, durability, whether our construction techniques will hold up to frequent use and washing. This stage reminds me of my old interior design career; we used to always have samples of furniture and millwork made, which we would then try to beat the crap out of.  Sewing pattern prototypes is the equivalent of jumping on those benches to make sure they didn't fall apart.

I chose linen for this make because I wanted to see how the silhouette would stand up to a more structured fabric. I knew I loved Amy in a drapey rayon, but what does a loose fitting, wide-legged jumpsuit look when it's made with something a little more crisp and defined? Turns out, something good. The shape is more pronounced, the leg more defined, but the ease and comfort remain. My dream is basically to have linen against as much of my body as possible in warmer months, so this make hit all my clothing chakras.

This very pretty linen is from Blackbird Fabrics (sorry, it's sold out!) and I bought it hoping to see how Amy handled stripes. To make it work, I rotated the grainline slightly so it ran parallel to the center front and center back bodice line; this ensured I wasn't creating any weird chevron shapes along the front seams. Shifting the grainline did affect the leg shape a bit; I found they became a bit more triangular, although that could just be the absence of any substantial drape in the fabric. Regardless, I am into the silhouette, and it looks dope af layered under a jean jacket.

I skipped the pockets and topstitched the lining in place since I found it peeking out more than it had it with my other version. This prototype also helped us realize the dart was a bit too low, so we raised it for the final version.

As much as I love my linen Amy, it's getting packed away for the season. I'm excited to layer my rayon challis versions for a while longer yet, but something about rumply linen just says summer to me... I seem to start wearing it as soon as I put away my knitting, and stop wearing it the minute it's chilly enough at night to pull out my knitting from the spring before.

Are you the same way? Is linen "summer only" for you too?

Insano Printo: My First Amy Jumpsuit in Rayon Challis

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At this point my stash is totally out of control. I am pretty helpless in the face of an interesting fabric, and between biz and personal sewing I can always make an excuse to add to the collection, despite my best intentions to rein it in. This insane purple geometric print was acquired during a mad run on rayon challis at a wholesaler's a year or so ago, although if you were to describe it to me I would probably make a big X with my arms (I'm less print inclined these days and purple is not my colour unless I'm listening to Prince). It's why we ended up using it for our first draft of the Amy Jumpsuit; there is no point in using something I like for a test. I was therefore shocked to put it on and discover I actually LOVE this print, especially in the context of a swishy, drapey jumpsuit that is basically like wearing an angel's whisper in clothing form.

This was the first proper sample we made while developing the pattern and it was pretty much love at first wearing. It became my defacto party outfit this summer; somewhere in between a slip dress/caftan/maxi dress, but with the comfort of two legs (I need to wear bike shorts with all dresses because of my #chubrub).  I had another solid blue rayon in a coordinating colour and used that for the straps; a simple but pleasing detail.

Just so you know how I suffer for you... I got stung by a wasp IMMEDIATELY before these photos were taken but the light was fading so I just tried to hide my tears. Amy and I brought up a stack of her namesake jumpsuits up to a rented cottage and we spent the day taking pictures of each other. It was a nice change from the strict schedule of using a photo studio and photographer, but I could have done without the damn wasp.

This was made in our standard 10 sample size, so there is a little less ease through the waist and hip since I'm generally a 10/12 up top and a 14 down below. For this reason I doubt if many of you will have to grade if you're a little more pear shaped like me. If you're a straight size or narrow hipped and like the shape but would like a little less ease/volume, you might want to consider grading to a smaller size from the bust down.  A quick baste fit will be your best guide here; check the final garment measurements to make sure you'll still have enough room to move around.

I love the legs the most. As I've mentioned this design was inspired by a jumpsuit I saw on a woman in London this spring. She was waiting for her coffee while I surreptitiously took pictures of her voluminously cropped legs. We successfully recreated it and I just want to twirl.

How do you feel about this silhouette? Do you like it easy and loose or would you prefer a belt?

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