Easy Pattern Hacking: My Tapered Leg Jenny Overalls

6 November 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

Sometimes it's the simple things. I made these full-length overalls last spring (using our Jenny Overalls pattern and hip button tutorial), and while I loved them, I found they didn't get pulled out of my closet very often. I made them long enough to wear with heels (for that legs for miles look) but in such thick n' beefy olive twill it felt a little forced. What they wanted to be was more practical, down and dirty overalls, and after seeing these perfectly tapered Jennys on instagram, I decided to grab a pair of scissors and go to town.

The revised leg shape is now giving me a Carhartts vibe, more workwear and less glam. I still love that wide legged look, but this fabric was calling out for a different treatment.

Not that I'll be changing motor oil in red suede clogs and a vintage faux fur leopard coat anytime soon, but that's an irrelevant detail.

If you're feeling this slimmer, more tapered leg, all you need to do is take equal width from the side seam and inseam on the front and back leg. I basted and experimented until I got the shape I wanted, taking about 2.5" off each seam. This is what my pattern looked like after modifications:

A pretty easy change with pretty dramatic results. My favourite kind. So... do you prefer the tapered leg or do you think I made a terrible mistake?

Details: Jenny Overalls in 12oz twill, Kalle shirt in black ikat, Bryr clogs, vintage leopard coat.

Miss Fancy Pants: Jenny Shorts in Marimmeko Linen

30 August 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

Summer is nearing the end (I mean, I know technically it goes till mid-September but the minute Labour Day approaches I basically curl into a ball and have a good, wistful cry) and I still have a few more of my summer sewing projects to show you. These Jenny Shorts are one of my favourite makes this year and have been my very best friend through the worst of the many heat waves we've endured.

They are made from the only fabric I bought on my recent trip to Sweden, a beautiful cotton-linen blend from Marimekko. Normally I'm not a big print person, but how can you resist the weird whimsy of Marimekko? You can't, which is why I found myself spending the most money I have ever spent on fabric in their Stockholm shop, trying not to do the calculation from krona to Canadian. I promised myself I would sew something special with this psychedelic floral, and decided shorts was the best option since I only had a yard and am not keen to put this much fabric party up against my face.

And what shorts they are! I may go as far as to say they are my dream shorts; not too short, not too long, perfectly high waisted and with enough width and flare through the hips to still feel modest-ish. And so, so comfy! I mostly wore them with cropped linen tees, but when it got super hot and sticky I loved pairing them with this backless tank bodysuit (not a Nettie, but I wore it so much I might make a few for next year).

I made one small tweak to the pattern. In order to have a bit more width through the thigh, I graded them out one size from the hip down (I made a 14 and ended up grading to the 16 at the hem). It results in a less straight shape, so I suggest doing the same if you like a bit more flare in your shorts. I just barely had enough fabric so I didn't worry about print placement, but I think with big, wild prints like this you don't really need to fuss much.

Because of the cotton in the blend they don't wrinkle like regular linen, and always made me feel quite cool and collected even after sitting in them all day. Also, how can you not crack a huge-ass smile when you put something this cheerful and fun on your body? I have many more party shorts on my agenda for next year using this pattern, including a fancy pair with French jacquard. Just call me Miss Fancy Pants, I won't mind at all.

Have you sewn with Marimekko fabric before? And have you tried our Jenny shorts yet? I really think it's a fabulous summer short, if I do say so myself.

Details: Jenny Shorts in Marimekko linen/cotton, Everlane bodysuit, Firmoo sunglasses, pink suede Selected mules

How to Install Overall Buckles & Hardware

5 June 2018 by Amy Leave a Comment

Hey guys, Amy here. So, you're trucking along, making your Jenny Overalls and they turned out great! You made a bib! You've installed your jeans buttons! Last step! You go to put on your strap hardware and... "wait a sec" ... "I should know" ... "I've seen these my whole life" ... "How the heck?!" Don't worry! You're not alone, I had to google this, twice. Turns out installing overalls buckles is not 100% intuitive. There are a few little tricks that we learned along the way, so this is a quick little tutorial on how to put the finishing touch (and dare I say the most important touch!) on your new overalls.

This set of hardware is the one we are selling in our Jenny overalls hardware kit and it has three bars along the buckle. We've also seen buckles with only two bars, or those that integrate the slider into the buckle itself; as a result, the following method may differ slightly depending on the style of your buckle.

Once you have attached your straps (and checked the length) slide on the slider bars (as seen in the photo below) over the middle bar. This is easier to do before you have finished the ends of your straps.

Next, slide on the buckle by going under the first bar, over the second bar and under the last bar.

It's easier to do the next step if you give yourself some slack, so pull the fabric through the slider bar and tuck the end through the middle piece; you will be able to adjust everything after.

To finish the strap, fold the raw end under by 1/4" and press well.

Fold under the same amount again. Repeat for the other strap.

Using the same thread as before, topstitch in place at 1/4", backstitching at the beginning and end.

Now for the fun part! Go ahead and try them on and adjust everything the straps as necessary so they are the proper length for you.

Now get out there and milk the cows! (Or go to the grocery store and buy some milk, it's 2018). Hope you feel cute in your new overalls either way!

Save this tutorial to Pinterest:

Button Front Jenny Overalls // Free Pattern Bonus & Tutorial

31 May 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

I'm so tickled by everyone's enthusiasm for our button-front Jenny Overalls hack. The pair I made is one of my most treasured garments and I'm thrilled to share this tutorial and free pattern bonus so you can unbutton your Jenny with similar abandon.

First things first, you will need the modified pattern pieces which you can download from our Sewing Resource Library (you need to enter your email address in the box below to get the password to this members-only area, where you can also download multiple fitting guides and all our free patterns). The only pieces you'll be keeping from the original pattern are the legs (which you will cut out without the pocket opening), the back pockets and the overalls strap. It should also be said that with this pattern bonus, you can now make a pair of button front or fly front Jenny trousers or shorts since we've included a new center front waistband and fly extension. I won't be covering how to do that in this tutorial; see our fly front tutorial or button fly tutorial for more info.

How to Access Files

To download this free PDF pattern or resource, you will need members-only access to our Sewing Resource Library. To get access, subscribe to our newsletter using the "Sign me up" button below. We will then send you a welcome message with the password and you can download your free goodie!

Sign me up! I AM ALREADY SIGNED UP BUT FORGOT THE PASSWORD Access the Resource Library

Included in the new pattern pieces are a patch utility pocket, revised bib and bib facing, a waistband that opens along center front, a fly shield and a few new interfacing pieces. In addition to your new pattern pieces, you will need 8 button closures. These can be jeans buttons (like the ones in our Jenny kit), regular buttons or snap buttons).

Here's the complete cutting inventory:

ORIGINAL PATTERN

Front and back legs x 2 (do not cut pocket opening on front leg, and do not trim fly extension as directed on the pattern piece)
Back pockets x 2
Overalls strap x 2

PATTERN BONUS

Utility pocket, 2 x fabric, 2 x lining
Bib x 2
Bib facing x 2
Waistband x 2 (one can be cut from lining fabric)
Fly shield x 1
Bib interfacing x 2
Fly interfacing x 2

INSTRUCTIONS

The pattern construction changes quite a bit with this mod, so I am going to try and move through everything relatively quickly. Go ahead and sew the back pockets in place along the back legs. You'll also want to sew the legs together along the back crotch seam with a sturdy stitch, and then finish the seam, with the option to topstitch it in place if you feel like it (see this post in our Ginger sewalong if you need more direction on this). Now, on to the front!

Trim the left bib front (as you wearing it) along the line indicated on the pattern piece; the right front will be slightly wider now. Apply the bib interfacing to either side of your two bib pieces, and finish that straight seam with a serged or zig zag stitch. If you want to ensure the angled side of the bib doesn't stretch out, you can reinforce it with some fusible interfacing or stay stitching; I didn't do it with my heavy denim but this might be a good idea with a lighter weight fabric.

Now fold each side in along the indicated notches.

Fold the bottom edge of the bib facing up at 5/8". Now with right sides together, align the facing at the top of the bib (unfold that bit you pressed earlier). Now stitch the facing in place, along the angled side seam, across the top, and then down, aligned with the line you pressed earlier on the bib. You'll have a little excess on each end.

Trim and grade the seam so it can be turned neatly inside out.

Turn the facing right side out and press. Repeat for the other side. Fold the angled side of the bib under by 5/8" (in line with the top edge of the facing), and then fold the raw edge under.

Finish these pieces off for the time being with some topstitching! Stitch the angled sides at 1/4" and the top at 1". Now topstitch center front in place with one row at 1/8" from the edge, and another at 1 1/2" from the edge. Repeat for the other side.

Put the fronts aside for the time being and grab your two pocket pieces and two pocket linings. I forgot to snap this pic, but you'll want to trim the pocket linings down by 1/8" at the side, bottom and along the curved edge. This will help conceal the lining once it's sewn together. Interface the fabric along the curved edge to prevent this seam from stretching out. Now line up pocket lining to pocket, right sides together, and stitch along side, bottom and curved edge at 5/8".

Trim and grade seams so pocket can be turned neatly right side out. The lining should pull to the inside a little bit since it's slightly smaller. Press thoroughly.

Topstitch curved pocket opening at 1/2" from the edge.

Line up pockets on front leg and pin in place.

Topstitch pocket in place, 1/8" from the edge on the straight side and bottom. Baste remaining sides in place inside seam allowance along side and waist seam.

Once both pockets have been sewn on, prepare the front legs. Serge the fly extension of the left leg, and trim 7/8" from the fly extension of the right leg.

Line up the legs, right sides together. Now draw a straight line from the center front notch along the waist to the circle mark on your pattern piece. This is your stitching guideline. I forgot to snap this pic, but using that line as your guide, use a long basting stitch and sew front legs together from waist to circle mark. Once you hit the circle mark, backstitch, switch to a shorter stitch length and continue sewing down the crotch seam at 5/8".

Finish the bottom crotch seam and trim by about 1/4"; use a serged or zig zag stitch here. Press fly extension open.

From the right side of the pants, topstitch the left fly extension and crotch seam to the left leg of the pants, 1/8" from center front.

Using the fly topstitching guide, draw in your fly topstitching with a removable marking tool. Line up the left bib with the waist seam so you ensure that vertical line of topstitching is a consistent width along the front of your overalls.

Topstitch the left fly extension in place.

Press the fly shield in half, right sides together. Stitch bottom edge at 5/8" and turn right side out and press. Line up with the trimmed edge of the right fly extension on the wrong side of the pants and pin into place.

Stitch the shield to the right extension using a 1/4" seam, and then serge or finish with bias tape.

Flip open fly shield to expose the right fly extension. Press in place.

Topstitch the right fly extension to the fly shield, about 1/8" away from the fly shield seam. Ensure you are not sewing through the legs!

Fold the shield over to the left leg along the center front seam.

Stitch a few bar tacks through the front pants and fly shield. The most important one is where the fly stitching meets center front.

Now that the front is done, stitch the front and back legs together along the inseam and side seams. If you need more direction on that, see this post. Topstitch the side seams in place the length of the pocket, and finish with a bar tack at the end of the stitch line.

Rip out the basting stitches along the fly.

On to the waistband! Make sure it's interfaced and pin it in place along the waist seam.

Stitch in place - note there will be extra along the left leg. Press seam up.

Draw a straight line along the waistband to mark the edge of the fly.

Line up the bib face down along this guideline. The goal is to line things up so the center front leg, waistband and bib form one continuous line.

Repeat for the other bib.

Pin the straps in place at the back as directed in the instructions.

Stitch bibs and straps in place just inside seam allowance.

Fold one edge of waistband facing up 5/8". Now align facing with waistband, sandwiching bibs and straps in between. Stitch along entire waistband at 5/8".

Now square off the waistband corners on either by stitching a straight line directly in line with edge of fly.

Trim so it can be turned right side out.

Turn the waistband right side out and press all the way around. Grade seams to reduce bulk.

Topstitch in place all the way around at 1/8", starting and stopping at center back. See this post for guidance if you need it.

You're almost done! Now to identify the location of your buttons. I used my buttonhole gauge here but you can also just measure the area and divide in equal amounts. I suggest four on the bib, one on the waistband and three along the fly. See our post on sewing jeans buttonholes for help with this. Our hardware kits for Jenny include enough buttons for this modification. Alternatively, you could install a spring or ring snap to make these even easier to get on and off.

Once your buttonholes are sewn and cut open, install your jeans button using this video tutorial. AND BOB'S YOUR UNCLE!

Phew! Hope this tutorial helps you make the button-front Jenny of your dreams!

DOWNLOAD FREE PATTERN BONUS

My Jenny Overalls with Center Front Buttons

29 May 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

Whenever I design a new pattern it's always an effort on my end to whittle down the ideas. My brain goes a hundred miles an hour and I can always think of a dozen variations we could add. For our Jenny Overalls it was especially hard; when I drew up the technical drawings I had pages and pages of options, but in the end, we are limited to the number of pattern pieces we can fit on a tissue sheet and also not making the instruction booklet like a hundred pages long. All of this to say, I really considered making these center button front overalls one of the options until I reined myself in at the last minute. I couldn't get the idea out of my head though, so when I made myself a pair and realized how deeeeeelightful they were, we decided to create a free pattern bonus for you to do the same. Today I'm going to talk about the pair I made myself, and on Thursday we'll be sharing the pattern pieces and tutorial.

Okay, so how are these different from the original pattern? First of all, I split the bib in half and added a fold over facing to act as a button band. The fly becomes fully functional, the waistband opens in the front, and then the overalls can be taken on and off by unbuttoning the buttons. In lieu of the curved slash pockets, I drafted a patch pocket instead, which gives these a bit more of a utility vibe. Alex asked me yesterday if it was annoying to go pee while wearing them and honestly the answer is no. Once the buttonholes get worked in a little bit it takes 3 seconds to just unbutton the whole thing in one go, although you could also replace buttons with snaps, and then it would be even faster and you could feel like a basketball player in tearaway pants. Or a male stripper in a handyman uniform. Whatever floats your boat.

I made these in a heavy-ish denim leftover from our last round of denim kits. I think it was a 12 oz? I love how structured they are - they make the wide leg feel very jaunty and intentional. I used a contrast gold topstitching, and antique brass buttons to match the overalls buckle (our hardware kits for Jenny include enough buttons for this version if you add the little button bonus). It occurs to me that you could also skip the buckle for a cleaner look and just sew the straps directly to the bib; I think that would make these feel more jumpsuit-y. Size-wise I made a 14 through the hip and leg, graded to a 12 at the waist/bust.

Also, it's very important to note that I LOVE THESE FIERCELY AND WITHOUT RESERVATION. I brought them to Europe and they were my most worn garment while I was gone. They feel very on-fashion, so it's what I wore when I was shopping in fancy stores in Stockholm and wanted to look like I had money to spend and they shouldn't get nervous about me pawing all the merchandise (does anyone else get sweaty in nice shops? Like, they will see through you and know you're just there to take pictures of everything in the dressing room and have no intention of buying anything? I've learned over the years that wearing a cute outfit really helps with this fake shopping anxiety). I brought a few close fitting tees I would interchange, and dressed them up with wedge sandals or down with my Chuck Taylor hightops. I taught in them, went out in them, lazed around in the park in them. They are my favourite me-made garment right now and I'm excited to just beat them up and try to get a good fade going on the denim.

Stay tuned on Thursday for the full tutorial and the free pattern bonus! I'm excited to give you another way to make this pattern your own.

Details: Jenny Overalls in Cone Denim with antique brass hardware, vintage tee suede mules, tassel earrings

Adding Hip Buttons to the Jenny Overalls & Trousers

24 May 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

This week I shared Jenny Overalls with a hip button closure, and in today's post I'm going to show you how to do the same, should you be feeling an itch to sub out the hip zippers called for in the pattern.

To start with, you'll need six buttons, three for each side. Our overall buckle hardware kits include an add-on for extra buttons specifically for this mod, so if you'd like to skip sourcing that many jean buttons I suggest you pick up a kit. Of course, you can just use regular ol' buttons here too, although in this tutorial I'm using the antique brass ones we carry in the shop. In the example I'll be showing you today, I didn't make any modifications to the pattern, and as a result the buttonholes extend a little past our seam allowance on the wrong side of the pants. This doesn't bother me since I interfaced the buttonhole location and it was also stabilized by the pocket lining, but if you want the buttonholes to fall within the seam allowance on the wrong side, you'll want to add a half inch or so to the seam allowance of the front leg only, or make sure the buttonholes are vertical and perpendicular to the seam.

If you want to do horizontal buttonholes and feel like modifying the pattern, the length of this extension you add should be about 3/4" shorter than the fly shield. You'll also want to add 1/2" to each side of the fly shield; this ensures that the seam allowance extension is completely concealed by the shield once all is said and done. If you've already cut out your pieces, don't worry about this step - you'll see below it doesn't make that much of a difference.

Now onto the sewing part! Assemble the front and back legs as directed in the instructions and finish each side seam with a zig zag or serged stitch. Match the front and back right leg together along the side seam and stitch together at the 1" seam allowance. Use a basting stitch until just below the edge of the pocket (about 4-5") - we will be ripping this out shortly so make it easy to do so with a long stitch length. Press the seam open.

Now lay the pant leg open on your work surface and identify where you'd like to put the buttons. In the below picture, I am using my ruler to represent the waistband, lined up along the stitch line. This helps me evenly space the buttonholes. You'll want to add two to each pant hip; if you're adding pockets the buttons will fall along the facing. If not, the buttons should still be located within that facing area so they're not spaced too far apart. I wanted the edge of the buttonhole to start 1/4" from the seam; the final width should be the length of your button plus about 1/8" on each side (although I generally add a bit more when I'm sewing heavier fabrics).

Once you have your location marked, go ahead and sew the two buttonholes (see our tutorial on sewing perfect buttonholes if you need help with this step). If you're using a lightweight or loosely woven fabric, you may want to interface the location where they'll be sewn. Ensure you are sewing through the front leg and folded seam allowance, along with the pocket bag if you're sewing the pockets. You can see that buttonhole extends past the 1" seam allowance in the picture below (I photographed this at a later stage so your side seam should still be in place); if you extend the seam allowance as I directed in the pattern mod above, the buttonhole should be contained within the extended seam.

Here's what it will look like from the front.

Press the fly shield in half right sides together and sew the bottom at 5/8". Turn inside out and finish with a zig zag, serged or bias bound seam. Pin into place so that the raw edge aligns with the edge of the back leg seam allowance.

Stitch the shield to the seam allowance at 1/4" and rip out basting stitch.

Turn the pants over and press the seam flat where it joins to the shield.

To anchor everything in place and stabilize the bottom of the pocket, sew a bar tack at the bottom edge of the pocket, through the fly shield below; I tried to follow the line of my topstitching. If you don't have front pockets, stitch a short bar tack perpendicular to the seam an inch or so below the bottom buttonhole.

Here's what it will look like on the wrong side.

Repeat this process for the other side and assemble the legs as directed in the instructions. Once you're ready to attach the waistband, follow the steps we outlined in our waistband tutorial post, with one important change. We are eliminating the pointed tab so the waistband edge aligns perfectly with the front waist seam. Simply square off the corner of the waistband so it lines up with the pocket edge.

Stitch the edge of the waistband, trim and turn right side out.

Finish sewing the waistband and add a buttonhole in line with the ones along the hip. Use a fray check product on each side of the button, and a seam ripper or buttonhole chisel to open the buttonholes. Close the pants so that everything lines up along the side seam and use a pencil to mark the location of the buttons. They should be inserted at the far outside edge of the buttonhole (if you center them your pants will end up being too big). Install your buttons on the fly shield and the underside of the waistband and you're good to go!

You now have a classic pair of overalls with button closures on each hip. I also love the idea of doing this type of closure on the pants or shorts for a sailorish vibe. Any questions?

My Jenny Overalls with Side Buttons

22 May 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

Hola! Last week I got back from a teaching trip to London (and a side trip to Stockholm which was all my dreams realized) and now I'm trying to get caught up with the blog (side note: are you interested in any travel posts from me? Happy to share about my trip if you're curious about it). Today I want to show you one of the first pairs of the Jenny Overalls I made for myself. They are special because I skipped the side zippers and used buttons at the hip instead - later this week I'll be sharing a tutorial post so you can do the same. Now, more about these babies...

The goal with these was basically a riff on iconic Carhartt overalls, but you know, glamorous. Like what Patricia Field would have put Carrie in if she ever dated a mechanic. I used a super heavy duty cotton twill from my stash, and it's absolutely sturdy enough for actual workwear. I would 100% garden or do home improvements in these, but first I'd have to hem them to wear with flats; I made them long enough to wear with heels and clogs, and while I love how long my legs look, they might actually be more practical for actual errands if I rehem them.

I made these with an earlier draft of the pattern so the legs are a touch wider than they are in the final version. I made a straight size 14, but could have graded to a 12 at the waist - they aren't quite as defined in that area as my next pair, which I don't mind so much since they give more of that Carhartt vibe.

As I mentioned, these have buttons at the hip instead of zippers, which is the closure we most associate with overalls. I debated endlessly about whether or not we should include this as an option in the pattern but I thought it would be too much in the end; our instructions tend to be pretty exhaustive (and long as a result), and adding too many variations just gets confusing. It's a super simple mod so I decided to show you how to do it in an actual tutorial. I love the detail of the buttons at the hip; it' just adds a little something something to that pocket, and they are super easy to get on and off.

I used regular polyester thread for the topstitching and all the hardware is from our new kits. The main kit has the buckles and sliders and a few buttons, but if you want to add the hip buttons like I did here, we have a little extra button kit you can add on. Also you're not hallucinating; I shot these twice since I forgot to get details the first time, hence the shirt and lipstick change. How cute do these look with an oxford shirt?!

I am actually wearing these as a I type, and when I dropped the dogs off today at the therapy center the director was like "WHOA I LOVE YOUR OVERALLS!" in French, but I didn't know what the word for overalls was and we launched at my Anglo stupidity, and when I told him I made them he was like "PLEASE MAKE ME A PAIR!" and I laughed and laughed because we all know that's never going to happen.

I'm going to Home Depot this afternoon to get a bunch of stuff for some home improvement projects and feel like I really dressed perfectly for the day. I want to like, put a measuring tape on my hip and stick pencils and tools in the bib pocket while I walk around nodding appraisingly at deck screws and power tools. I was very inspired by how damn beautiful EVERYTHING is in Sweden so I have a long list of things I want to do around my apartment; I have realized I have a lot of mildly anxious, newly single energy that needs an outlet. These overalls are basically the Ms. Single, Handy & Fabulous outfit I need so badly right now.

So that's it for these Jennys. Stay tuned for the upcoming hip button tutorial!

Details: Jenny Overalls pattern in olive twill (similar here) with antique brass hardware, Nisolo wedge sandals, RTW tshirt, lipstick: Glossier Generation G in Zip)

How to sew a tabbed waistband // Jenny Overalls

17 May 2018 by Alexis Leave a Comment

This week we covered sewing a lapped zipper for our new pattern, the Jenny Overalls & Trousers. Today we'll be showing you how to sew the tabbed waistband, since it's a new construction method for us and has a bit of a choose your own adventure vibe with all the options (ie. one hip zipper or two, with a bib or without). Let's get into it!

SINGLE ZIPPER WAISTBAND

In this example we're showing you the waistband without the bib and one hip zipper; you may want to skip down to the section on sewing two zippers to see how the waistband works with the bib. As we discussed in the fitting post, you'll want to make a quick muslin to figure out if one or two zippers is necessary to make your Jenny's easy to get on and off. Most people can get away with one zipper, and this is the waistband method you'll use.

First, cut two single zipper waistbands (pattern piece P); the outer waistband will be interfaced. We are demonstrating how to sew this waistband when the lapped zipper is installed on the right hip but it's not a problem if you decided to install your zipper closure on the left hip instead. The same instructions apply, you will just flip the waistband so the tab is on the left side of the pants.

Press the bottom raw edge of the waistband facing in by 5/8". This will make finishing the inside facing easier at a later step. Pin the facing to the outer waistband along the other long edge and sew together along this top seam at 5/8".

Open the waistband and pin the interfaced outer waistband along the waist of the pants with right sides together. Start by aligning the notch next to the pointed tab to the right front side seam, and continue along the waist matching the center front, left side seam, and center back notches. The single zipper waistband is drafted a little longer than necessary in case you need a little extra length. The end of the waistband should extend past the fly extension at the back right side seam. Sew the waistband to the pants at 5/8" and press the seam allowance up towards the waistband.

Turn the waistband inside out and pin it closed along the short sides. You may find it helpful to draw in your stitch line around the pointed tab so you know when to turn your work. We used a seam gauge to draw our stitch guide along the seam allowance of the point of the waistband. To sew around the pointed tab, you will need to unfold the folded seam allowance of the facing and outer waistband. Pin the seam allowance to keep it in place.

You can also draw in your stitch line on the other end of the waistband. The pressed seam allowance of the facing and waistband will be folded up and you will sew a straight line perpendicular to the waistband lining up with the edge of the fly shield.

To sew around the front waistband tab, start at the top edge of the waistband and sew along your guideline. Keep your needle down when you reach a corner and carefully turn your work.

Stop sewing when you reach the edge of the front leg and backstitch to secure.

When both ends of the waistband have been sewn closed, trim down your corners around the pointed edge of the waistband tab and grade your seams.

Using a point turner, turn the waistband right side out and press well.

Pin the facing in place around the inside of the waistband so that the seam is concealed.

To secure the waistband facing in place, you can either topstitch around the entire perimeter of the waistband from the right side of the pants, or you can slipstitch the facing to the waist from the inside of the pants. For our denim shorts sample, we used a white topstitching thread and a longer stitch length to match the rest of the topstitching on the garment. We started the topstitching just above the zipper on the back leg so the beginning and end of the stitch line would be concealed by the front waistband tab.

Keep your needle down when you need to turn a corner.

And voila, a cute tabbed waistband for a single zipper closure!

To finish, sew a buttonhole on the tab of the waistband, and either install a jeans button or sew a button in the corresponding end of the waistband.

DOUBLE ZIPPER WAISTBAND (WITH OVERALLS BIB)

If you installed a lapped zipper at both the right and the left hip, you will use the front and back double zipper waistbands (pattern pieces Qa and Qb). You will cut two of each waistband piece from your main fabric. The outer waistband pieces will be interfaced and the non-interfaced pieces will be the facings.

We'll start with the front waistband. With right sides together, pin the outer front waistband to the front of the pants, matching the side seam and center front notches. The pointed tabs on either end of the front waistband will extend past the side seams. Sew and press the seam allowance up.

Pin the overalls bib to the top edge of the waistband, matching the center of the bib to center front. When you are pinning the sides of the overalls bib, keep your stitch line in mind- the sides of the bib should not extend past the side seam notches. Baste the overalls bib in place along the top edge of the outer waistband within the seam allowance.

Fold and press one long raw edge of the front waistband facing in by 5/8".

Pin the waistband facing to the outer front waistband along the top and sides, sandwiching the overalls bib between the layers. At this point you may find it helpful to draw a stitch guideline around both tabs of the front waistband so you know when to turn your corners. This is particularly helpful making sure the tabs look symmetrical when you are sewing a double zipper waistband! To sew around the tabs, the seam allowances of the outer waistband and facing will need to be folded down.

Sew the facing to the waistband, starting at the right front side seam. Keep your needle down to turn the corners, then sew the top edge of the waistband. Sew around the left tab and backstitch just before the edge of the left front leg to secure.

Trim around each of the pointed front waistband tabs and grade your seams. Turn the front waistband right side out with the help of a point turner and press well. The overalls bib and straps will be pressed up and away from the waistband.

You can secure the facing in place by either topstitching around the perimeter of the front waistband, or by slip-stitching the bottom folded edge in place from the inside. For our striped overalls sample we wanted a clean finish to balance the stripes, so we slip-stitched the facings by hand.

We will repeat the same steps for the back waistband. Pin the interfaced outer waistband to the back of the pants, matching the notch at center back. The sides of the back waistband should extend past the fly shields at either side seam. Sew at 5/8" and press the seam allowance up.

With right sides together, pin the overalls straps to the top seam of the back outer waistband. The angled edge of the strap should be parallel with the waistband, and the straps should be centered over the back dart of each leg. Baste in place and try on your overalls to confirm the angle and placement of the straps.

Press the bottom edge of the back waistband facing in by 5/8", and pin the back facing to the back outer waistband with right sides together. The overalls straps will be sandwiched between the layers.

To sew the facing to the outer waistband, start stitching at the edge of the fly shield on one side. The pressed seam allowances of the outer waistband and facing will remain folded up.

Trim the corner of either end of the waistband and grade your seams before turning the back waistband right side out. Press and secure the facing in place using the same method you applied for the front waistband.

Sew a button hole on each tab of the front waistband and either install a jeans button or sew a button on each side of the back waistband.

And that's it! We love this tabbed waistband for adding a little something extra at the waist area. Any questions? Let us know!

How to Sew a Lapped Zipper for the Jenny Overalls

15 May 2018 by Alexis Leave a Comment

Over the next few posts, we'll be covering some of the trickier construction steps in our Jenny Overalls & Trousers, in addition to a few fun pattern hacks (including free new pattern pieces!) Today, we want to show you show our method for installing a lapped zipper. This method is used to insert a sturdy zipper along a side seam with a pocket, but you can use the same method for any lapped zipper application.

In this tutorial, we will demonstrate how to install the zipper on the right side. I know that women's pants traditionally open on the left, but this is an archaic tradition (leftover from when women were dressed by servants) and a right side zipper is actually much easier to do up if you are right-handed, which the majority of us are (sorry lefties). If you prefer a left side closure, or if are installing a zipper on both sides of your Jenny Overalls or Trousers, mirror these instructions for the left side.

The front pockets need to be constructed before installing the lapped zipper (if you are not adding front pockets you can skip ahead). The front pocket construction for the Jenny Overalls pattern is very similar to our slanted pockets tutorial for the Sasha Trousers pattern. The top pocket facing (H) should be interfaced. Finish the long curved edge of the top pocket facing and bottom pocket facing (G) with either a serged or zig-zag stitch. Position the facings on the top and bottom pocket lining pieces (E and F) with wrong sides together, and stitch around each facing 1/4" from the edge.

With wrong sides together, match the top and bottom pocket linings along the curved seam. Sew together at 5/8" seam allowance, and finish the raw edge with a serged stitch. If you do not have a serger, trim the seam allowance down to 3/8" and finish the raw edge with either a zig zag stitch or by using pinking shears. You could also finish this using a french seam.

Open the pocket bag and with right sides together, match the top pocket facing to the curved pocket opening on the front leg. Stitch together with a 5/8" seam allowance.

Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side of the front leg and press along the curved seam.

To finish the edge of the pocket opening, you can either understitch the top pocket facing to the seam allowance, or you can topstitch along the pocket opening. For this sample we topstitched 1/8" from the pocket edge using white topstitching thread. Align the top and bottom pocket linings with the waist and side seams, matching notches, and baste in place.

For our sample we also wanted to add some additional topstitching detail to the front pockets by sewing along the curved edge of the pocket bag. To prevent the pocket bag from shifting and to provide a stitching guideline, we basted the pocket bag in place using a contrasting thread.

From the right side of the front leg, we shifted our needle and sewed a first line of topstitching along the inside of our basted guideline.

Then we sewed a second line of topstitching 1/4" inside the first line.

Gently remove the contrasting basting thread and give your front leg a final press. We are ready to install the lapped zipper!

It is very important to note that the side seam allowances for our Jenny Overalls pattern are one inch! As one of our wonderful testers pointed out during development, a larger seam allowance can be really helpful when installing a lapped zipper, since you'll have a little more room to play with when you are flipping your zipper over the seam line, especially if you are using a zipper with wider tape or teeth. The side seam where the lapped zipper will be installed will ultimately be pressed open. You may choose to finish your raw edges now with a serged or zig zag stitch, or you may choose to finish them after installation so you can trim them down. We sewed this sample for our model and knew we might have to make some fitting adjustments, so we serged these edges before installing the zipper.

Pin the front and back right legs together along the side seam, matching notches. With the right front leg facing wrong side up, determine the position of your zipper. The top of the zipper teeth will start just below the 5/8" waistband seam allowance. We recommend a 7" zipper for the Jenny Overalls pattern. With a removable marking tool, mark the position of the top zipper teeth and bottom zipper stop.

Starting at the waist of the leg, sew the side seam at the 1" seam allowance using a long basting stitch. It can be helpful to backstitch a few stitches when you start sewing so the basting stitches don't come undone when you press this seam open at the next step. When you reach the marking you made to indicate the placement for the bottom zipper stop, switch to a regular length stitch and continue sewing. Backstitch to the marking a few times to secure, and finish sewing the right side seam all the way to the hem.

Press the side seam open and ensure the zipper placement markings you made are still visible. A tailor's ham will help press the curve of the hip seam.

With the back leg folded out of the way, position the zipper face down over the side seam between the top teeth and bottom stop markings. Pin the zipper to the seam allowance of the back leg only.

The edge of the zipper teeth should be aligned precisely to the right of the seam.

Using a zipper foot, sew the zipper to the back leg seam allowance only, keeping the right leg out of the way. Stitch as close as you can to the zipper teeth. Sometimes it can be hard to sew a straight line because the zipper pull gets in the way. If this is difficult, try starting the stitch line with the pull down. When you reach the pull, keep your needle down, raise the presser foot, and carefully pull the zipper stop back up.

Fold the seam allowance and zipper under along this stitch line and press.

Sew a line of topstitching to the left of the zipper along this fold to secure.

Flip the zipper over the side seam so that the other side of the zipper tape is resting flat along the right front leg seam allowance. Pin in place.

Sew the zipper to the right front leg seam allowance only. Stitch close to the teeth and keep the right leg out of the way.

It's time to topstitch the zipper in place from the right side of the pants. Determine the bottom zipper stop placement by pushing a pin from the wrong side into the pocket bag.

Draw a topstitching guideline with a removable marking tool. Depending on the width of your zipper, this line may be 3/8"-1/2" away from the side seam on the right front leg. Use your fingers or a few pins to make sure the line is not overlapping with the zipper teeth. We used a jeans zipper instead of a traditional pants zipper for this denim sample, so we found a 1/2" distance worked best. Your guideline will extend into the inside of the pocket since the zipper extends past the pocket opening. The guideline will end just below the bottom zipper stop.

Sew along the marked guideline starting from the waist. Go slowly and make sure the layers of fabric are resting nice and flat, and that you are sewing to the right of the zipper teeth.

When you reach the inside of the pocket bag, carefully open the pocket and continue sewing. It may help to undo the basting stitches keeping the pocket lining in place along the waist of the leg.

When you reach the bottom zipper stop, keep your needle down and carefully turn the corner. Sew to the side seam and backstitch. If you are unable to turn the corner, backstitch at the end of your straight line of stitching.

Sew a sturdy bar tack through the pocket opening and pocket bag. The bar tack should continue along the topstitching line you just stitched, and will help secure the pocket opening. You may remove the basting stitches from the side seam now and test out your zipper!

Prepare the fly shield for installation. Fold the fly shield (I) in half with right sides together and sew one short edge closed at 5/8". Trim the seam allowance, clip the corner, and press right side out.

If you have already finished the raw edge of your right leg seam allowances, finish the seam allowance of the long raw edge of the fly shield.

Pin the fly shield to the back leg seam allowance only so that the top of the fly shield matched the waist of the pants, and the zipper is concealed. Sew the fly shield in place. If you haven't finished your seam allowances, you may trim them down now and finish them separately with either a serged or zig zag stitch.

Et voila! A sturdy hidden zipper for all your pants wearing needs!

We'll be back later this week with our tutorial on sewing a tabbed waistband, and then next week we'll show you how to replace the zippers entirely with a pretty button closure!

Pants Fitting Tips & Tricks for the Jenny Overalls & Trousers

10 May 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

Pants fitting can cause a lot of anxiety, so this post is here to mitigate any stess you may have about fitting our Jenny Overalls & Trousers. Since the cut is so generous through the leg, you really only need to worry about getting things right in the rise and crotch area, and in today's post, I'll be walking you through crotch fitting, grading between sizes and a few other changes you can make to tweak the fit to your liking.

My number one piece of advice is to make a quick muslin and to confirm your measurements before cutting out your size. This pattern is based off a new block, so adjustments you've made to past patterns of ours may be different here. Making a muslin will help you figure out if you need to make any adjustments to the rise, crotch or width or length of leg, in addition to whether or not you would like to use a single or double hip zipper. Basically, you want to quickly test the bottom half of the pattern with the waistband designed for one zipper. Cut out the legs without any of the pockets, and either leave the zipper off and simply pin closed, or baste in a zipper along the center of the side seam to test whether you can easily get them on and off. If they feel a bit tight getting on, for your final pair you should switch to the other waistband and prepare to sew zippers at each hip.

I also suggest downloading our pants fitting ebook if you need more help. We wrote that for our Sasha trousers but the principles are the same for any pant pattern, and I am not going to exhaustively cover all fitting issues here since I've done it in that post.

FITTING THE RISE

I would say the rise of this pattern is generous. In development and testing, we decided it was important that the crotch not be too restricting; you want to be able to wear these all day without feeling anything digging into you, or the need to constantly be pulling things down. Ideally, the crotch seam will sit a little below your pelvis, giving you enough room to move, walk and sit down in comfort.

If you are short or have a shorter torso, you may find the overall rise too long. If it feels too loose or baggy in the crotch, you'll want to cut the front and back legs along the indicated line and overlap them the desired amount. Making a muslin is very helpful here because you can experiment with pinching and pinning out the fabric you want to remove all the way around before adjusting your pattern piece.

The opposite is true if the overall rise feels too short - you will cut and spread your pieces along the indicated line and fill in with a scrap of paper to lengthen the rise.

ADJUSTING CROTCH FIT

You may find that the overall rise works for you, but the front crotch is too long, which will be indicated by frown lines at the bottom of the crotch pointing towards your leg (more details on that in our pants fitting ebook). In that case, you will want to shorten the front rise only, either along the top waistband seam, or along the inseam as shown below (please note you will likely only need to adjust the pants in one place).

MAKING LEGS LESS WIDE

Jenny has a lovely wide leg, but if you'd like to take them in a bit for something a little more straight, it's an easy mod. You'll want to try and take an even amount from front and back; if you are removing 1/2" from the front side seam, that much should come off the back leg as well (this helps retain the balance of the leg). Same goes for inseam. The easiest way to determine how much to remove can be done at the muslin stage, with pins or by basting experimental new seams until you get to something you like. Then those adjustments will be transferred to your pattern pieces.

GRADING BETWEEN SIZES

It's important to grade between sizes for this pattern. The pants should have about 1" of ease in the waistband and 2" of ease through the hips to fit as they were designed. Note that if you have to grade between 3 sizes or more, you may find the hip seam too curvy to install the zipper. If that's the case, I suggest moving the zipper to center back or replacing the zipper with hip buttons, which I'll be explaining how to do in an upcoming post.

In the below example, I am grading in between two sizes, 10 at the waist and 12 at the hip. First, draw a line from the side seam of the size 10, gradually curving it till it meets the size 12 around the hip notch. For the front pocket, trace the size 10 opening and then extend it till it touches your new hip line. You will also have to modify the pocket pieces and facings to reflect this new pocket shape.

And that's it for todays fitting post! Let me know if you have any questions below.

Styling & Outfit Inspiration for Jenny Overalls & Trousers

8 May 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

Thank you kindly for the enthusiastic response to our latest pattern, the Jenny Overalls & Trousers pattern! I'm excited about this release since they are so many darn views, with hopefully a little something for everyone. Today I'll be sharing some images for styling and outfit inspiration; there are a million ways to wear Jenny, and I'm hoping this post will help you figure out how.

WIDE LEG OVERALL OUTFITS & STYLING

Overalls outfit & styling inspiration // Jenny Overalls & Trouser Pattern // Closet Core Patterns — one. two.three. four. five. six. seven. eight. nine. ten. eleven.

Most overall designs skew more functional than aesthetic, but I think the high waist and wide legs of Jenny feels a little more glammed up than your typical workman's Dickies. I really encourage you to think about fabric. For a structured (and durable) look, choose medium to heavy weight denim. A lighter weight, drapier fabric like linen is also an option, and makes the leg feel softer and floatier. The cropped length feels the most modern, but I love the drama and formality of the full length leg, especially with a heel; it makes your legs look about a million miles long.

I favour this high waisted style with a shirt that can be tucked in; an oxford button down or closer fitting tee are ideal, but I also like wearing my Jenny overalls with a longer, drapey tee with a bit of volume.

SHORTS OVERALLS OUTFITS & STYLING

Shorts overalls // Overalls outfit & styling inspiration // Jenny Overalls & Trouser Pattern // Closet Core Patterns — one. two.three. four. five. six. seven. eight.

Shorty overalls tend to feel more youthful to me (I am a teenager of the 90s, after all) but I think they can feel more sophisticated with the right fabric; velvet, suede or even just basic black grow them up a little bit. In denim with a striped shirt, they are an outfit you can take straight through to September.

CROPPED WIDE LEGGED PANTS & FULL-LENGTH TROUSERS

Cropped wide leg trousers // Jenny Overalls & Trouser Pattern // Closet Core Patterns — one. two.three. four. five. six. seven. eight. nine.

Cropped wide-leg pants are having a serious moment, and I don't think it will end anytime soon. After so many years of skinny jeans and slim fitting pants, the silhouette feels fresh and modern even a couple of years into the trend, and pairing these pants with a cropped shirt is hands down my favourite look right now (I wear some variation on this look almost every day). The full-length trousers are more formal and put together; paired with heels they are supremely elegant for evening and make those legs go on forever. Hemmed to wear with flats, they can add a little polish to a more casual outfit.

HIGH WAISTED SHORTS OUTFITS & STYLING

Tailored high waisted shorts outfit & styling inspiration // Jenny Overalls & Trouser Pattern // Closet Core Patterns — one. two .three. four. five. six. seven. eight. nine.

I love high waisted shorts but I find they tend to ride up; I think the more generous crotch of Jenny makes these a super comfortable summer option. When it's hot you need room to breathe. Since the shorts are tailored and chic, I think some of you could pull them off for work, or dress them up with a simple pair of heels. I know I'll be wearing mine with flat leather sandals and silk camisoles all summer long.

Later this week I'll be back with a fitting post. How are you planning to style Jenny?

Introducing our latest pattern: Meet the Jenny Overalls & Trousers

2 May 2018 by Heather Lou Leave a Comment

I know I have a yen for hyperbole, an over-abundance of enthusiasm and a tendency to love all of my children more than the last, but I think I can honestly say our latest pattern, the Jenny Overalls and Trousers, is my favorite Closet Core Pattern yet. It hits all my hot spots; wearable, comfortable and chic, with enough variations to almost create a capsule wardrobe. It makes me very, very happy, and I hope it makes you feel the same way.

The genesis for this pattern happened in France last year. I found a vintage pair of overalls at a Paris flea market and found myself wearing them nearly non-stop, even though they were a size or two too small; they were just so damn fun to wear that I tried to ignore how uncomfortable they were after a few hours. I started thinking a lot about what my dream pair of overalls would look like. I found lots of inspiration in mid-century women's workwear, and came around to a style that would be chic instead of childish, a kinda glam wardrobe workhorse that I (and we) could wear just about anywhere, at any age. What that means is an ultra high rise, a wide leg, and enough classic, tailored details to keep it planted squarely in the "appropriate just about anywhere" section of your closet. I like to think of our patterns as unexpected staples you didn't realize you couldn't live without, and Jenny is very much that kind of design for me. Whether you make the trouser, shorts or add the bib and go for the full overalls/dungarees, I know whatever you make will be a garment you reach for again and again.

This pattern has a lot of views, and would have had even more if I didn't seriously rein myself in (there are so many opportunities for different closures and construction methods, which is why you should stay tuned for all the SUPER fun content we have coming your way to hack and customize these babies even further). You can choose between shorts and cropped or full-length wide leg trousers, all of which can be worn alone or with our well-proportioned bib. If overalls or dungarees aren't your thing, the pants alone are worthy of your consideration. I fought hard with the crotch of these, aiming for something with a little room to breathe. Our rise is ultra high, meaning your front bits and behind will never know the shackles of a rigid crotch seam, with enough shaping to still make your heiny look fabulous. The legs are roomy and dramatic and can go either way: drapey and floaty in linen, structured and polished in a heavier weight canvas or denim.

Let's take a look at the overalls, shall we? Our pink linen sample has all the bells and whistles: deep curved front pockets (seriously, these pockets are a dream), utility pocket, curved patch pockets in the back and a faux fly. While I don't always love a non-functional detail, I think the faux fly does a nice job of breaking up that rise, and I'll be showing you how to make it fully functional in an upcoming blog post.

All views close with a tabbed waistband and a sturdy lapped zipper at the hip since I wanted these to be sleek but fairly hard wearing. You can choose between a single zipper, or adding a second one at each hip, depending on your size and waist to hip ratio. In testing some folks found a single 7" zipper a little hard to get on and off, so we added a second waistband option in case you want extra room. AND, if zippers aren't your thing, we have a blog post coming up that lets you replace them entirely with a classic overalls button closure at the hip.

If a fast, speedy make is your get-down, you can skip the pockets and the topstitching for something a little more minimal and clean. We made our shorts overalls with a Kaufman striped denim and I love how keeping the details simple lets the fabric shine.

If overalls aren't your thing, Jenny may be the wide-legged trouser of your dreams. I'm partial to the cropped length for everyday, but would be hard-pressed to find a more dramatic statement than our full-length pants in a swoon-worthy fabric. We made our sample in a luscious French jacquard and the final result is full-on Chanel glamour.

Finally, you can also make a sleek and tailored high-waisted short. Here we've had fun with contrasting topstitching, and I love how it elevates a casual summer staple.

Finally, we have a beautiful hardware kit for this pattern! Our kits for Jenny come in a silver and antique bronze finish, and include two overall buckles and sliders, along with five jeans buttons (two for the buckles, two for the hip, and one extra for practice). If you want to sub in hip buttons for the lapped zipper, you can add extra buttons to your kit purchase. A tutorial on how to do that is forthcoming.

We've got so many great blog post tutorials coming your way, along with a few posts showing you how to customize and hack this pattern into a lot of looks, which gives me an excuse to make myself a few more pairs. I'm also going to cover fitting, grading and basic pattern mods since I know pants fitting makes some of you nervous, and I want you to feel super confident making and wearing these babies.

So, what do you think of Jenny? What's your favourite view?

GET JENNY OVERALLS PATTERN

ps. This pattern was named after Jenny, the lovely lady behind the German sewing blog Rat & Naht (a German play on the words "Seam + Advice"). I fell in love with Jenny on Instagram where I discovered her beautiful, innovative takes on our patterns. Every garment she makes perfectly captures her creative spirit, and we admire her quiet, confident energy and skillful execution. She's also a trained tailor; I highly suggest you keep up with her!

pps. Our fabric choices: light blue denim, railroad striped denim, pink linen from the LA Fabric Store (sadly closing), print jacquard from Elliott Berman.