Pattern Hacks for the Jasika Blazer

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We are all about a good hack over here. Maxing out on the possibilities of a pattern is not only economical (two for the price of one!!) it also builds your skill sets as a sewist and potential pattern drafter. If you can dream it up and sew it, chances are someone already did! The Jasika Blazer and its accompanying Speed Tailoring Course can be merely a jumping off point for whatever kind of jacket you would like to make. Once you have got a handle on the basics of tailoring there are endless variations of bespoke details you can experiment with.  If you are anything like me, this prospect is both a little daunting and very exciting. We thought we would compile a few of the changes you could make to the Jasika Pattern to hack it into the jacket of your dreams. We tell you what pattern pieces will be affected and a rough guideline but the rest is up to you! Sound fun? Let's jump in.

DOUBLE BACK VENTS

(Photo Source)

The double back vent, or the English Style Jacket as it's called in men's tailoring, was created for being on horseback. The range of movement (especially when seated) allows the jacket to spread and lay flat and thereby avoiding creasing and wrinkling. This is a good option for ladies with a little extra on the back (juice in the caboose, junk in the trunk etc.) as it allows your jacket to spread over your curves. Or if you plan on doing a lot of sitting (on a plane, at work) this tends to survive better without creasing. It's a fairly easy adaptation, here is what you need to change:

 

WORKING SLEEVE VENTS/BUTTONS

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The Jasika is designed with optional sleeve buttons that are merely decorative but what if you want to open those sleeves up?? A few intrepid sewists tried this during the #blazerofglory challenge:

@blakandblanca did a beautiful job (that pop of yellow!) on her toile version.

For a detailed tutorial on this, visit this great Threads article on adding a sleeve vent. Here are the adjustments you have to make to your pattern to achieve this:

 

PEAKED LAPEL

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One of the easiest style changes to make to the Jasika is the lapel. A peaked lapel is a typically formal option (a classic tux feature) and really changes the style of the blazer without a lot of fussy pattern drafting. A few sewists did this adjustment while making their jackets.

@MeganFrancine is making a Gucci inspired jacket

How to do the same:

 

TURN IT INTO A COAT

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Lengthening the blazer into a coat is a super easy way to create a whole new piece without changing much on the pattern. Essentially all you have to do is lengthen below the pockets to the hem. The back vent will function the same.

 

DOUBLE BREASTED

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Double breasted suits are having a MOMENT right now. A bit of an 80's throwback, this style makes a great suit as in the case of this window pane example above. Again, there isn't too much you need to change to adapt this, the instructions will be the same and the lining can remain the same. Easy Peasy!

BOXY BLAZER

(Photo Source)

This was probably the most requested adaptation of the blazer that we encountered.  Basically, you want to remove all the shapey curving we added to the pattern. You can try sizing up for a slouchier fit, but you may want to keep the shoulder width the same for your size.

Have some fun! Play designer! As styles and trends change you can adapt your basic pattern to make whatever piece is missing from your wardrobe. And remember: MAKE A MUSLIN! Don't forget to show us your designs using the #jasikablazer hashtag.

Converting Darts to a Princess Seam for the Jasika Blazer

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Hello all! Celine here. I am the in-house pattern maker for Closet Core Patterns and I am here to share a pattern-making tutorial with you. We spent a lot of time in the studio discussing how to make our Jasika Blazer work for larger busts, and while we do have C & D cup options for the pattern, princess seams are one of the best ways to fit a large bust. You might also choose to add princess seams for purely aesthetic reasons - either way, I'm going to walk you through it in this tutorial.

If you think you want a more fitted Jasika Blazer (or any other jacket for that matter), or if you need more shaping around the bust, using the existing darts to draft a princess seam is a good way to go. Waist darts ending in the pocket is a pattern staple for tailored jackets and what’s been done for ages to give a little shaping to an otherwise pretty boxy garment. Tailored jackets in the early days of tailoring were drafted for men exclusively. When tailoring came into fashion for women, designers emphasized the waist and bust a lot, creating an hourglass shape and adding a lot of seams everywhere to make it snug. That’s when the famous princess seams that Dior utilized for blazers became iconic. Later on, menswear became trendy for women as well and boxy made a big come back!

Our Jasika blazer is a good combination of both, with true tailored blazer style and a semi-fitted shape (since the waist dart is relatively small) with a decent amount of shaping. But the good news is, you can shape it and style it some more! Switching from darts to adding a seam to a bodice is actually not that hard and requires just a few steps. Then again if you don’t need more shaping but just want to change the style lines you can do that with a princess seam -- you’re the designer here! I’m going to show you how to add a princess seam to the Jasika regular front, but also on the FBA C cup and the FBA D Cup (with two darts) in the armhole and shoulder.

DESIGN AWAY AND TRACE A LINES ON THE FRONT

How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns

First you have to determine your bust point location. There is a reference point on the pattern already, but you might want to do a quick muslin of the Front to check on yourself if it is really at the apex. Then draw where you want your princess line to be: it can be anywhere in the armhole to the shoulder, as long as it goes through or very near the bust point.

ADD NOTCHES AND CUT ALONG YOUR DRAFT LINES

How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns

You want to have a smooth curve at the bust so make sure your lines are not making any weird shapes. I would recommend getting rid of the bustpocket here as you want to see the nice curved shape of your princess seam.

ADD SEAM ALLOWANCES AND GRAINLINES

How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns

When your pieces are cut, draw your seam allowance (we are using a 5/8” seam allowance) and transfer your notches. At that point you can walk your seams or measure them making sure they all match. If you have a bit of excess on your side panel curve it is no big deal, you can smooth it when sewing and pressing. Decide if you want your princess seam to go all the way down or stop at the pocket. I've shown it both ways here; on the right side I cut the bottom from the center front piece and merged it with the side panel. When your pattern pieces are taped together, check the seams are matching well and add a grainline perpendicular to the pocket opening.

MAKE A MUSLIN

How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns

Make a muslin of the front with your new princess seam! For the example drawn here, the overall shape of the blazer is the exact same, so it should fit the same. If you want to adjust the fit you can do it on your muslin, pinching the extra fabric along the seam and then transderring those adjustments on the pattern.

PRINCESS SEAM IN SHOULDER ON A JASIKA C CUP FRONT

How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns
How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns

For a seam ending in the shoulder, the drafting is pretty much the same. To have a consistent line from shoulder to hem you can draw your line a bit off the bust point and adjust your curves: the amount you take on one side should be added to the other side. In this example, I drew my line 1/4” toward center front and so curved the side panel also 1/4” out. Again, if you want the jacket to be snugger, you can leave a small gap between your drafting lines and adjust later with your muslin. With the princess seam in the shoulder, you could also keep the bust pocket. You may find you need to smooth or adjust the side panel curves to  get a closer fit.

PRINCESS SEAM IN SHOULDER ON A JASIKA D CUP FRONT (WITH TWO BUST DARTS)

How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns

Follow the same steps as for the princess seam in armhole, however, we will also have the option to remove the bust dart. Here's how to do that:

How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns

On your new side panel, before adding your seam allowances, draw your dart so the dart tip touches the seam. Close the dart, folding your paper or cutting one dart leg and taping it to the other dart leg. Your seam is now crooked so you need to smooth it and make it a nice curve, checking the measurement are still matching along the center front panel.

How to Convert a Dart to Princess Seam // Closet Core Patterns

Add seams allowances and adjust.

For more help with making these adjustments, we wrote a fitting tutorial/ebook on princess seams for the Fiona Sundress. The principles are the same for a jacket so if you are having fitting issues, this should help you out.

And there you have it! The challenge with drafting off book is trusting your instincts and enjoying the process. The more you learn how fabric reacts to your adjustments the easier you will be able to troubleshoot and adapt patterns to your own fitting needs. Allow yourself to try things without a perfectionist approach! Make a muslin! Have FUN!

Learn how to tailor a blazer with our online sewing class // Closet Core Patterns

Blazers of Glory!!

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Wow: most uttered word in the studio over the past two months, bar none. We have been so utterly bowled over by the incredible sewing we've been seeing from those participating in the Blazer of Glory challenge, and every day brought a new image of a blazer in progress that knocked our socks off. I was honestly quite nervous about releasing a more advanced pattern like our Jasika Blazer but I was so reassured to discover how many of you are keen to take on a new challenge. I'm not sure how we could get more ambitious after this but at least I know if we do, folks will be down to clown.

This week we picked our winner for our challenge. It was a very tough decision since there were so many incredible entries, but we couldn't stop swooning over this gorgeous blue blazer from @becky_califronia. The fit, fabric and finishing is flawless and we felt it deserved our grand prize: a custom dress from Beatrice Forms! Congrats Becky!

Becky

But of course we can't stop there. There were so so many beautiful jackets and as we all know, this challenge was not a destination, it was a JOURNEY! There are a couple of people that we saw throughout this challenge bringing so much encouragement, support and photos. Beck here, in her Closet Core yellow Jasika won our hearts early on and we so appreciated her process photos and beautiful sewing. So gorgeous.

Beck

Another super trooper was the lovely Blanca. Every time we went to comment on a #blazerofglory picture she had already been there, with a like, a kind word, or helpful suggestion. Thank you Blanca!

Blanca

So many gorgeous blazers made over the course of this challenge... I think we could officially start a Blazer Army.

Round up of Blazers of Glory // Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: one // two // three // four // five // six

 

Round up of Blazers of Glory // Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: one // two // three // four // five // six

 

Round up of Blazers of Glory // Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: one // two // three // four // five // six

 

Round up of Blazers of Glory // Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: one // two // three // four // five // six

 

Round up of Blazers of Glory // Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: one // two // three // four // five // six

 

Round up of Blazers of Glory // Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: one // two // three // four // five // six

 

Round up of Blazers of Glory // Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: one // two // three // four // five // six

 

Round up of Blazers of Glory // Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: one // two // three // four // five //six

Thank you so much to everyone who participated! You made this one of the most fun patterns we've ever launched, and seeing how you put your own creative spin on such a classic design really blew our minds. We love you. Hard.

Learn how to tailor a blazer with our online sewing class // Closet Core Patterns

A Jasika Blazer for ME!

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All this talk about our Jasika Blazer this year and I realized I haven't shared a personal make yet! I was in a blazer making fury last year; a few are in various stages of completion, and two are in permanent rotation (although thankfully I also fit in the samples we made, so luckily I get to wear those too). Today I'm sharing a beautiful brown check Jasika I've worn almost weekly since the fall; it's got a tweedy, "let's walk through the misty moors with the hounds" vibe I've quite enjoyed.

I think this was the third Jasika I made (I've lost track; last year was a blur of wool and interfacing). It's an early iteration of the pattern; we took in the shoulders for the final pattern and I think they look a touch wide for my frame here. I found this gorgeous wool check at M&M Textiles here in Montreal. It's nice and thick, and warm enough to wear as outerwear on cooler days. The nice thing about a great blazer is that double duty factor; with a scarf you're truly good to go, and then you look profesh as hell once you get wherever you're going.

I lined it with a red bemburg, and added some wool felt to the under the collar for that little pop of something something. I love the buttons; I sewed them with a contrasting thread in an X pattern and I like how thoughtful such a small detail can be.

 

I'm kind of obsessed with belt bags right now (this one is from Madewell) and I love how it looks over a blazer. It really says "I am such a busy working woman I need to be hands-free at ALL TIMES!". It's a fun, modern way to style such a classic piece.

I kind of need to take a much-needed break from tailoring for the time being, but I'm kinda excited to tackle some of the plans I have for the fall. I'm dying to make a full suit with our Sasha trousers in a crazy colour like our brand yellow, and have some plans for hacking it into a longer, boxier double breasted baby in navy or black. Now that I have a few more classic blazers in my closet, it's hard to imagine a world without them!

Free Pattern: Shoulder Pads and Sleeve Heads

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Hello! Alexis here. I'm here today with a quick tutorial to show you how to make your own sleeve heads and shoulder pads for our Jasika Blazer (or any tailored jacket for that matter!) If you're having trouble sourcing high-quality shoulder pads and sleeveheads or simply enjoy DIYing as much as possible, we have a free pattern for you.  This pattern can be downloaded in print at home format in our sewing resource library, which is exclusive to our newsletter subscribers. Get the password by signing up to our newsletter in the box below.

We've seen a few shoulder pad patterns out there, especially in vintage coat patterns. There are a few different styles you can make - you may see DIY shoulder pads that are made from cotton wadding or stuffing that is inserted into a nylon or cotton sack and stitched closed. The style we have drafted for you here is comparable to the high-quality ready-made shoulder pads found at many professional tailoring shops and is designed to gradually taper in width so they are invisible from the right side of the garment (we include these high-quality pads in our tailoring kits if you don't feel like making them yourself). The nice thing about the way these have been drafted is that you can totally customize the height of your pad, which is especially helpful if you have especially sloped or uneven shoulders. No need to rely on a commercially available pair when you can make these fit your body exactly, right?

While our free sleevehead and shoulder pad pattern was drafted for the Jasika Blazer, you can use these for other projects too. You may need to adapt the pattern depending on the garment you are making, but this is easy to do. Generally, the shoulder pad should cover almost the entire shoulder, and the curved edge should stop about 1" from the neckline of the jacket. Reshape the pattern pieces as needed to suit your garment.

MATERIALS & SUPPLIES NEEDED

  • Free Sleevehead & Shoulder Pad pattern (available in our sewing resource library, get the password when you sign up to our newsletter, see above)
  • A small scrap of horsehair canvas (a 5" x 7" piece will do, you may also substitute with heavy cotton muslin)
  • A quarter yard of your choice of lambswool, cotton batting or fleece (for the sleevehead and shoulder pad middle). This is basically what you would use to line a quilt with.
  • A quarter yard of your choice of lightweight felt or fleece (for the outer layers of the shoulder pads). You can also use lambswool or cotton batting in a pinch.
  • Polyester thread, hand sewing needle & thimble
  • Pins and/or Wonder Clips
  • Optional: temporary fabric spray adhesive

A quick note about felt... it varies a lot in colour, thickness and stiffness. You want something that has a little bit of structure so your shoulder pad will serve its purpose in the jacket, but if it is too stiff, it won't have the nice curve you need to shape the shoulder. We found this black felt at our local craft supply store, and it was about 2mm thick. If your felt doesn't have enough structure to it, you might consider lining it with some cotton muslin. Once you've gathered your supplies, it's time to cut out your pieces! When your pattern piece instructs you to cut in pairs, be sure you are cutting mirrored pieces, so you will have both a right and left shoulder when you are done.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

How to Make Sleeveheads

We cut our main sleevehead pieces in a soft cotton batting, and our sleevehead canvas from horsehair canvas. Pin the sleevehead canvas to the sleeve head, matching the front single notch. You want the canvas on the front of the sleeve, because it is meant to prevent the front part of your sleeve from collapsing. If you don't have any canvas, these sleeveheads will still work - you just want have the additional structure at the front. We've cut exaggerated notches in our pieces so it is clear which end to sew in the photo below.

Machine stitch the pieces together with a 3/8" (10mm) seam allowance. And you're done! Moving on to the shoulder pads...

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

How to Make Shoulder Pads

For each shoulder pad, you will need one top layer cut from felt, one bottom layer cut from felt, and a few middle layers cut from your batting. The pattern piece for the middle layer indicates to cut four- two for each shoulder. Depending on the thickness of your batting, you may need more or less. Ensure you cut mirrored pieces for both right and left shoulder! Below, we have our pieces cut for the right shoulder.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

The Jasika Blazer pattern calls for shoulder pads that are 1/4" thick. To test how thick your finished shoulder pad will be, sandwich the layers together and measure with a ruler or seam gauge. Keep in mind, you may need to add more or less layers to accommodate the slope of your shoulder.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Once you know how many batting pieces you will need for your middle layer, it's time to get going. We took a shortcut, and used our temporary fabric spray adhesive to glue baste our pieces together.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Sandwich the middle batting layers in between the top and bottom layers of felt, matching the notches on the straight side of the shoulder pad. If the layers are too thick for pins, clothespins or Wonder Clips will do the trick!

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Thread your hand sewing needle and knot the end. Sew through all layers using a long running stitch. Do not pull your stitches too tightly, or the finished pad will not be thick enough. While you're sewing, hold the pad so there is a gentle curve along the center notch, with the longer top layer curving down. Sew back and forth from one end of the shoulder pad to the end, so the layers are secured all over the pad.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Here is the left shoulder pad all finished. When our stitching reached the end of the middle layer, we followed the edge of the batting with our stitching.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

A finished pair of DIY shoulder pads, ready to be installed in our jacket!

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

And that's it! These handmade sleeveheads and shoulder pads are relatively simple and inexpensive to make, and 100% customizable. We hope you enjoy our free pattern!

SAVE TO PINTEREST:

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Bespoke Tailoring Details for the Jasika Blazer

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Hey guys, Amy here. One of the greatest joys of sewing (in my opinion) is the endless customization, personalization, and tiny details you can obsess over while the rest of the RTW world has to TAKE WHAT THEY GET. From beginning to end, sewing is a series of little choices that add up to a totally, 100%, one of a kind, article of clothing. In a tailoring context, this is even more enviable. To have a custom suit jacket made on Savile Row is beyond most people's budgets. And even then, you would probably have to settle on just one. With the Jasika Blazer pattern we are bringing those bespoke, tailoring details to your finger tips! Our hope is, as you become comfortable with the techniques you feel free to add all those little custom touches that truly elevate clothing to the next level.

Today we're sharing some details you can apply to your very own Jasika. Obviously, these are mostly menswear images; it is only fairly recently the tailored jacket even entered the sphere of women's wear. But we are used to stealing from the boys! So don't let the man hands throw you off, in the right context all these dandyish details can be applied to a natty lady jacket. So get inspired! Let's take a look.

COLLARS & LAPELS

Bespoke Tailoring Details // Closet Core Patterns
one //two // three // four // five// six //seven // eight

Customizing your collar is a great way to add instant personality to your blazer. Think about materials - what about switching the top collar or under collar fabric to something with texture or colour? Adding ribbon or trim can help define the shape, and adding a secret embroidered message under the collar is about as bespoke as it gets.

PRETTY GUTS

Bespoke Tailoring Details // Closet Core Patterns
one //two //three //four// five //six //seven // eight // nine // ten

We love the idea of making the insides just as pretty at the outsides (Heather has been known to sing the song Pretty Guts to the tune of Adelweiss around the office). Adding piping or flat trim to your lining is one way; adding a secret breast pocket or hidden label is another. Thankfully we have tutorials for both these ideas coming your way shortly.

BUTTONS & BUTTONHOLES

Bespoke Tailoring Details for the Jasika Blazer // Closet Core Patterns
one // two // three // four // five // six // seven //eight //nine

Just because something is functional doesn't mean it can't be bee-yoo-tee-ful. Buttons and buttonholes are an area where you can really express yourself. Experimenting with thread colour, buttonhole shape or even making a gorgeous bound buttonhole will all add instant personality to your jacket.

POCKETS (WITH A TWIST)

Bespoke Tailoring Details // Closet Core Patterns
one // two // three // four // five // six // seven // eight // nine

Our Jasika has two classic pocket styles; an angled breast welt and double welt pocket with our without a flap. Don't let this hold you back though! You can add stacked pockets, change the shape or angle of your welts, add patch pockets or personalize further with topstitching and piped details. The world is your pocket oyster.

Hope you find these details as inspiring as we do!

Learn how to tailor a blazer with our online sewing class // Closet Core Patterns

Interview with a Tailor: Wisdom from Maimu

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I've been really lucky over the years to find some incredible pattern testers. Pattern making and development happens in a sort of bubble, so it's wonderful to be able to get another set of eyes on our designs, especially if our testers are as skilled and knowledgable as Maimu. She's been pattern testing for us for a few years, and I always love getting feedback from her; it's always filled with insightful suggestions and constructive criticism.  Maimu is a trained tailor and all around sewing genius and she was invaluable while we were working on the Jasika Blazer. Today we're sharing some of her wisdom with you. If you'd like to keep in touch, you can follow her blog here and her instagram here.

Interview with a Tailor // Closet Core Patterns
Kalle Shirtdress (TOPSTITCHING ON POINT)

Where did you go to school and what did you study?

First, I studied fashion in a school that no longer exists. I lasted for two years. Then I studied tailoring at Tallinn Industrial Education Center. Since the start, I made it clear to my two very lovely teachers, that I wanted to focus mainly on menswear and outerwear. The two year course covered both women's and menswear, everything from shirt and dress making to tailoring suits and outerwear. I graduated in 2006 as tailor/cutter; meaning that besides tailoring I had also learnt the skill of cutting. In bespoke tailoring, a cutter may measure the client, advise them on style choices and eventually cuts out the actual garment. After learning my trade, I worked for few years both as a menswear tailor and in RTW manufacturing and in (God knows what year) I decided to go to Tallinn College of Engineering and learn Technical Design of Apparel and Manufacturing.

How long have you been tailoring?  

On and off since 2006. Nowadays, it's really more a hobby of mine. Living in a small town doesn't help either since there aren’t that many clients who are interested in bespoke garments.

Interview with a Tailor // Closet Core Patterns
Ginger Jeans with the perfect fit

What is your favourite part of the tailoring process?  

Removing all the basting stitches at the end. So satisfactory.

What fabrics do you especially like to work with?

Anything thick and heavy really, but especially melton. I absolutely love coat making.

Interview with a Tailor // Closet Core Patterns
Burda Long Coat with Sash

What skills should people try to master when tailoring blazers?

Sewing straight is always a must. But, get those pockets right! They should be at equal height, equal in length and width. So, before you cut your pocket open, measure everything from the left side to be sure. You don't have to dive right in, sew a few pockets as a practice run first.  Secondly, how to press and shape a garment. Pressing is something that people fear, since one can very easily ruin a garment. Again - test first. Some fabrics do bruise more easily, some don't like a lot of moisture. It's also very important to let the garment parts set and dry after the pressing.

Interview with a Tailor // Closet Core Patterns
Morgan Jeans with a fun waistband detail

Do you have any designers or instagram accounts you like to follow for inspiration?  

For style inspiration:

Blazer style inspo // Closet Core Patterns
Clockwise from L: Guillaume Bo, Alexis Foreman, Tracey Lea Sayer, Shuhei Nishiguchi

For all the basting thread glory :

Jihae An

Do you have any fitting advice?  

First, get to know your body and posture. Maybe your one shoulder is lower than the other one? Maybe one of your arms is longer than the other one. Do you slouch? Knowing that in advance will help your fitting go a bit smoother. During the fitting, try to keep your posture as natural as possible, standing erect during the fitting will result in an ill fitting garment. Secondly, get the balance right. Make sure that the bottom hem and the waistline are parallel to the ground. And thirdly, don't over do it! You have to be able to move comfortably in your clothes.

Any other other tips, tricks or insight you'd like to share?  

PRESS. YOUR. SLEEVES. Those tubular trunk-like things really bother me. (Heather here: There is a special pad tailors use to shape and mold sleeves to the natural shape of the arm. Maimu explained how to do this and I demonstrate in our online tailoring workshop). Also, facings on any coat that goes past your knees should be attached to the main body. Same goes for double breasted coats, and coats or jackets without a closure. Those facings will start to roll out at some point, and that is just...a no. Oh, and clip your threads!

Interview with a Tailor // Closet Core Patterns
Burda Peacoat

Thank you Maimu! We love you!

Jasika Blazer Tester Round-up

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Hey y'all! Just popping in to show you some of our tester makes for the Jasika Blazer. This was an extensive testing process for us and as always, we are indebted to the amazing makers who help us refine and tweak our patterns. They make alllllll the difference.

As always Carolyn made a beautiful version and wrote about it on her blog:

 

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

The lovely Grace made a very pretty plaid.

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Yavanna's sturdy wool check has already become a staple.

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Tiffany wrote a blog post about her glorious leopard version.

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Tessa added a velvet collar to her wool blazer. LOVE!

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

A lovely linen version from Sierra.

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Renay made an awesome 3D textured version that somehow looks both sleek and cozy!

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Melinda didn't let her baby bump get in the way of making a gorgeous velvet Jasika.

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Judith achieved fit perfection with her pretty floral version.

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Dana went with classic black for a timeless look.

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Though not technically "testers" these sewists whipped up their Jasika Blazers so quickly they practically were ahead of the launch!

Love this floral version by Kat who somehow managed to make this in a single weekend (to be fair she is a VERY accomplished sewist!)

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

And finally this super clean, minimal linen jacket by the lovely Karen (a sample made for our pals at Stylemaker Fabrics). This truly is the perfect spring/summer blazer!

Jasika Blazer // Tester Round up // Closet Core Patterns

Sewist Spotlight and Pattern Muse: Jasika Nicole

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The internet can be a wonderful place. How I else would I get to meet the ebullient, charming and hilarious ball of maker energy that is Jasika Nicole? As you know, we name all our patterns after people in our community we find inspiring, and it was only a matter of time before we named something after this lovely woman. When we started working on our blazer pattern, Jasika was the person I thought of the most. She is a brave, bold, courageous sewist. Nothing seems to scare her or slow her down. Whether it's making her own shoes, tackling vintage patterns, churning out macaroons in her adorable kitchen or simply spending her off time exploring new ideas with fabric and silhouette, she has been a constant source of delight, and a ceaseless champion of our patterns (I think she's made nearly all of them at this point!) Our blazer could not have a better muse.

This year we've started highlighting sewists we think you should know, and this month we are turning our eyes to Jasika. I hope you enjoy getting to know her a bit better, and highly suggest you add her blog and instagram to your must-follow list.

A sunny pair of Sasha Trousers in a gorgeous yellow ponte.

How long have you been sewing?

19 years, but only obsessively for about 4.

How often do you spend time do you spend on your sewing practice a week (including planning, researching, sewing etc).

This is embarrassing ….but probably about up to 30 hours a week if work is slow and I have nothing else on my plate!

What is your home sewing set-up like?

I turned the detached basement in our home into a craft room where I spend the bulk of my making time. The space is mine alone and is filled with sewing machines, fabric, patterns, shoe making supplies and yarn, and although it’s messy and definitely needs more storage, I’m crazy about it. I love being able to leave my projects out in the open and not have to put them away every time I’m done for the day.

Did you have a gateway person or experience that brought you to sewing?

I was introduced to sewing when I took a costume design class in college for my studio art minor. I wasn’t particularly gifted at designing for the stage, but I fell in love with the rules and regulations of construction and having such a tactile experience with the fabrics. I spent more weekends than I can remember hanging out in the costume shop playing with the dress forms and machines and that year my mom bought me my first sewing machine for Christmas.

What was the first thing you remember wanting to sew?

Dresses! DRESSES DRESSES DRESSES!

How would you define your style?

Grandma chic! I am relatively conservative and I love dressing up and looking put together but I’m also a fan of comfort- I gravitate towards colorful, unique garments that are relaxed and easy. I used to exclusively sew vintage and vintage inspired garments from the 50’s era, but as my skill set has expanded and I’ve learned how to adjust sewing patterns to my body, it has opened up a whole new world of options for me- so many styles and designs that I thought didn’t work for my body were actually just clothes that didn’t fit me well, and once I started making my own clothes I realized I could look good in anything when I could make it fit well.

What is your favourite thing you’ve made? 

This is tough! Most of my favorites are first-time projects: my first pair of Ginger jeans, first time I made a lined coat, first time I made a pair of wearable heels.

She MADE these heels. Yep.

What is your favourite Closet Core Pattern?

THIS IS ALSO TOUGH. Closet Core is one of the first indie companies I started sewing with, and I reserve a special place in my heart for the brand since so much of my sewing learning curve was drawn while working on their patterns. I’ll have to say the Ginger jeans is my favourite though, because it set the foundation for me for good pants fitting techniques, and has opened the door to success with so many other patterns. This was the first pattern I ever used a sewalong with, and it was a revelation. Ever since I made my first pair of Ginger jeans, I have not  been afraid or daunted by a sewing pattern since. This pattern put me into Bad B*tch status, from which I will never return!

Sewist Spotlight // Jasika Nicole // Closet Core Patterns
Ginger Jeans with a fit to die for

How does sewing affect your relationship to shopping and RTW?

Aside from a few necessary replacement items and random things like gym socks, I don’t buy RTW clothing anymore and haven’t in about three years. I’m not against RTW at all, but shopping in stores just doesn’t bring me the joy it once did. I occasionally window shop for design inspiration and I definitely still buy things like shoes, but for the most part, wearing all memade gives me a thrill that nothing else can quite match.

How does sewing relate to your body image?

It has taught me that when clothing doesn’t look good or fit me well, it has nothing to do with my body and everything to do with the garment. It has reminded me that by their very nature, bodies can’t be “wrong” or “bad”, and to frame them as such is to be complicit in body-shaming behavior, which hurts me and everyone in earshot of my words. Finally, it has shown me how much privilege I have as an able-bodied, straight size, cis gender woman in the world of fashion and home sewing, and made me more aware of the struggles other people face that I so often take for granted.

Sewist Spotlight // Jasika Nicole // Closet Core Patterns
The Sophie Swimsuit in the most amazing peacock print

What are your go-to fabric stores?

The Fabric Store is a personal favorite, and I also love stopping by Michael Levine’s in the fabric district in downtown LA when I need some inspiration. For online stores I love blackbirdfabrics and FABSCRAP.

What are the tools you can’t live without?

Rotary cutter and tailors ham!

What was the best lesson or skill that took your sewing to the next level?

French seams- I rarely make a nice, professional looking high quality garment without them!

Sewist Spotlight // Jasika Nicole // Closet Core Patterns
The coziest Kelly Anorak in the game

What pattern release would you not be able to resist? (aka what type of garment would automatically jump your queue).

A well drafted jumpsuit!

What are your sewing goals? What would you like to learn how to do to push your practice forward?

I’m super excited about the...ahem….JASIKA BLAZER! I’ve never made a proper blazer with all the bits, bobs, doo dads and shoulder pads so I am super super excited for the challenge!

What’s the next thing you want to make?

Aside from the Jasika Blazer, I want to work on creating a good pattern for some zippered booties and I want to make a dress with piping on it. I am also about to make my wife a Rigel bomber jacket!

A tale of two Kalles (cropped and shirtdress)

Where else do you turn when you need inspiration?

Pinterest is my fav place to find inspiration, and I love the challenge of finding a comparable pattern to hack to recreate a look I feel very drawn to.

What was your biggest sewing fail?

Wow, so many bad patterns and ill advised fitting adjustments to consider! But a fail for me is when I do screw something up without any help at all from poor drafting or bad instructions, so mine is probably when I first got into pants fitting and decided to try a simple pair of high waisted trousers. I made them in a printed stretch denim adorned with paisley and I worked really hard on finishing the inside seams so they would look nice and professional. When it was time to try them on, I stuck my feet through each leg and tried to pull them up, but they wouldn’t budge past my thighs and hips. I was dumbfounded cause I knew I had made the right size! Turns out that I cut my pieces on the wrong grain line and the stretch of the denim ran vertically down my legs instead of across them so I couldn't pull them over my body. I have an infamous pic somewhere on Instagram of me standing helplessly with a pair of extraordinarily tight pants strangling my hips, my buttcheeks literally stacked on top of itself and spilling out from the top of the trousers.

Sewist Spotlight // Jasika Nicole // Closet Core Patterns
The heavily modified Fiona Sundress

Was there ever something you tried (sewing/ craft) that you would never do again?

When we had our bathroom renovated in our home I couldn't find the vanity I wanted in stores so I built it, which came out great and is something I’m really proud of. Our contractor assumed that since I built the vanity I would want to tile the countertop and splash guard as well, and I figured I would just go ahead and do it even though I had no experience in it- because hey, I’m trycurious! It was actually AWFUL, by the time I was done with the grout and tile I had three fever blisters on my face from all the stress!

A slightly adapted pair of Morgan Jeans

What is something you haven’t tried yet that you would like to in the future?

Sewing wise, I’ve never sewn a garment with piping and I would really like to. I would also love to start drafting and designing my own garments.

Where does your courage to try new things come from? Is there anything that scares you??

I grew up poor and I am also an introvert, so when I was younger I spent a lot of time entertaining myself, both because I was more creative and fulfilled when left to my own devices and because we couldn’t afford any classes for me to take. I always yearned for classroom settings and environments where I could learn and experience new things, so teaching myself how to do stuff (whether I actually knew how to do it or not) has always been a big part of my life. I guess the courage came from not feeling like I had any alternatives- I had wishes and dreams and goals like everyone else but I knew no person and no circumstance would ever make them come true for me, the responsibility rested fully in my hands. I’m honestly not scared of anything in terms of making/crafting/creating. The worst case scenario in trying something new is that I won’t be very good at it, and I have been on this earth too long to think that perfection is an achievable goal for anyone, much less myself. I know how to enjoy the process of learning!

*******

We love you Jasika! Thank you for bringing us constant joy with your sewing practice.

How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustments for the Jasika Blazer

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Today we are going to talk fitting for your Jasika Blazer! This is often the most intimidating part of sewing a new style of garment, so we wanted to make it as simple as possible for you to diagnose and correct any fit issues without having to consult a million books (we did that for you!)

We created a fitting ebook for our online speed tailoring course and decided to make it available to anyone not enrolled, or to anyone making a tailored jacket of any kind. This blog post is a summary of that content, although you may want to save the ebook we created for later reference. First step is to download the free ebook in our members-only Sewing Resource Library in the box below. To get access, sign up for our newsletter below and we'll send you the password!

The first step in this process is to MAKE A MUSLIN. Please for the love of all that is holy, do not skip this step. A tailored jacket is a big investment of your time and energy, and I would hate for you to cut into your lovely fabric and do all this work only to find you should have made a few simple adjustments first. Having said that, I also want to caution against over-fitting. Unless you enjoy obsessively tweaking every drag line, I think getting fixated on minor flaws you would never look askance at with ready-to-wear garments can really suck the fun out of sewing. My motto: good enough is good enough. Our blazer is meant to be semi-fitted which means we built in ease at various key points. To allow our blazer to be easily layered over other garments and give you a good range of movement, it is broader in the back, waist, and shoulders than a very fitted garment. Try not to go overboard nipping in these areas or you may find you can't move as freely as you would like. Having said that, you can quite easily take in the waist along the side seams if you'd like a closer fit.

HOW TO MAKE A MUSLIN

  • A jacket muslin does not need to include all pieces. For a simple and fast test garment, cut and assemble the front, side panel, back, sleeves and under collar. Baste everything together to make it easier to take apart if necessary.
  • To make assessing fit easier, mark all relevant construction symbols.
  • Mark roll line on lapel.
  • Mark button location on both fronts so you know where to pin jacket closed.
  • Mark center front with a vertical line perpendicular to grainline on jacket front.
  • Mark bust, waist and hip line on all pattern pieces. Draw a horizontal line perpendicular to grainline across all pieces. They will help identify any balance issues (ie. a swayback issue may cause the lines in back to curve or bend).
  • Mark lengthwise and cross grain on sleeve with horizontal and vertical lines.
  • Press hem of sleeve and jacket up. You can also press in seam allowances of collar and lapel if you wish, although this is not mandatory.
  • Make sure you try the muslin on with the shoulder pad in!

STUDYING FIT

The hardest thing about fitting a jacket is doing it on your own. If you have a fit buddy to help, it will make the process go by faster. If not, take well lit photos (daylight is best) of front, back and side while you're standing normally with arms hanging naturally at your sides and use those to diagnose issues. Once you have pictures, use this blog post or the ebook to identify what the problem is (we also include a Blazer Fitting Checklist in the ebook that you can work through). We have shown 23 adjustments here and it should cover the majority of fit issues. If you're still struggling, the Palmer Pletsch Guide to Complete Fitting is an invaluable resource. Now, let's get started! Each adjustment belows illustrates how drag lines or fit issues will appear on your muslin, with the proper correction shown on the pattern pieces affected.

DART IN WRONG PLACE

Dart in the wrong place // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixesSYMPTOM: 

The dart should line up with the apex/fullest part of the bust. If it doesn’t, the shaping and fullness created by the dart for the bust will not happen in the right place. This will cause tightness or restriction across the bust and may create excess fabric along the side.

SOLUTION:

To correct, simply shift the dart over the necessary amount and redraw the dart on the pattern piece at the correct place.

DART TOO LONG

Dart too long // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

The purpose of the bust dart is to shape the bodice of the jacket to conform to the shape of your body. It should create volume where you need it, at the fullest point of the bust. Ideally the dart will end 1/2” - 1” below the apex of the bust.

If the dart is too long, it will extend past the apex of the bust, releasing volume where you don’t need it. Signs of a dart that is too long are drag lines or pulling at the apex of the bust.

SOLUTION:

To correct, drop the point of the dart the amount needed and taper the lines of the new point to the existing dart.

DART TOO SHORT

Dart too short // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

The purpose of the bust dart is to shape the bodice of the jacket to conform to the shape of your body. It should create volume where you need it, at the fullest point of the bust. Ideally the dart will end 1/2” - 1” below the apex of the bust.

If the dart is too short, it will release volume where you don’t need it, lower on the chest. Sign of a too-short dart is excess fullness below the apex of the bust.

SOLUTION:

To correct, extend the point of the dart the amount needed and taper the lines of the new point to the existing dart.

SMALL BUST / TOO LOOSE ABOVE WAIST

Small bust adjustment // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If you have a small bust, you may find the jacket has too much volume through the front. This will result in vertical drag lines or excess fabric through the bust.

SOLUTION:

The simplest fix is to remove width through the front, side panel and back at bust level. Start with the front and side panel; additional width may be removed from the back if necessary. Shift the armhole shape in as needed, ensuring you maintain seam allowances.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

LARGE BUST

Large bust adjustment // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

Very full busts (3” or more difference between full and high bust) should use our C or D cup pattern pieces. However, if the bust of the jacket is only slightly too small (indicated by pulling across the bust and/or gaping at lapel) you may find you are able to add a little width through the side seams without needing to do a full bust adjustment.

SOLUTION:

Add additional width through along the side seam of side panel and front jacket. Amount added should not exceed 3/4”-1”. Shift the armhole shape out as needed, ensuring you maintain seam allowances.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

LAPELS TOO WIDE OR NARROW

Lapels too wide or Loose // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

Lapel width is a personal preference. If you find the lapel too wide or narrow for your frame, you may add or subtract width as needed.

SOLUTION:

To adjust, extend or reduce lapel edge and taper to meet notch at lapel break.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to front facing.

GAPING LAPEL

Gaping lapel // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the jacket fits well through the bust but the lapel is too long, it will gape or break across the bust. Check to make sure neck fits correctly first (see next adjustment).

If the neckline fits well, try pinching out the gape with pins; if it is less than 1/2” the gaping can likely be corrected by easing in stay tape during the construction of the front jacket. For larger gaping issues, follow our suggested solution.

SOLUTION:

Pin out a tuck with pins, tapering to nothing at the armhole. Measure the amount reduced at the lapel. Draw a line on the pattern piece at the same area you removed the tuck. Cut the pattern at the lapel across to the armhole and rotate the top portion down at the armhole until you have removed the same amount. True the lapel with a straight line.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to front facing and lining.

NECKLINE TOO LOOSE

Neckline too loose // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the neckline is too loose, the collar and neckline seam will sit away from the back of the neck. The shoulder seam may sit in front of the center of your shoulder, and you may see drag lines or excess fabric behind the neck. The lapel may gape.

SOLUTION:

Before making a change, assess if the back of the jacket is too wide overall. If so, remove the necessary width from the center back seam, tapering to nothing at center back.

If the back fits well, remove the necessary width along the back shoulder, tapering to nothing at the armscye. Note that you should remove the same amount of width from both collars and stands so the collar matches the new neckline.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to back lining and neck facing.

NECKLINE TOO TIGHT

Jacket too tight in back // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the neckline is too tight, there may be drag lines or creases on the front shoulder radiating from the neckline to the shoulder. The armhole may show signs of tension as well. The shoulder seam will not align with the center of your shoulder.

SOLUTION:

Remove the collar from the neckline and open the shoulder and center back seams. Position the seams so they settle naturally along the neckline, and make sure the amount added is evenly distributed between shoulder and center back seam. Since you have lengthened the neckline, add the same amount to both collars and stands.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to back lining and neck facing.

TOO TIGHT ABOVE WAIST

Jacket too tight above waist // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

This adjustment is similar to our Full Bust adjustment,  but adds width across upper body. You will see wrinkles/drag lines along bust and mid back and perhaps feel tightness beneath armhole.

SOLUTION:

Add additional width along the side seams at upper back.  Shift the armhole shape out as needed, ensuring you maintain proportion of seam allowances.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

TOO LOOSE THROUGH HIPS

Jacket too loose below waist // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

The jacket should lay flat against the lower body. If there are vertical wrinkles or excess fabric, you need to remove width through the hip.

SOLUTION:

Simply take in the hip along front, side panel and back. Pin your muslin along the seams to determine the amount needed, ensuring the back vent remains closed after adjusting. Taper the new seam line into the side seam just below the waist.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

SWAY BACK

Sway back adjustment // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

Jacket is slightly too long through mid back, causing the vent to swing open. Ensure the jacket fits correctly through the hips before attempting this adjustment.

SOLUTION:

While wearing the muslin, pin out a tuck above vent along back and side panels, tapering to nothing at front side seam. This should cause the vent to lay straight and the hem to hang straight. Measure the amount removed. Draw a line on the back and side panel at the same area you removed the tuck. Cut the pattern across the line and rotate the bottom pieces in until you have removed the same amount. True the grain line and side seams.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

UPPER BACK TOO LONG

Long upper back // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the jacket is too long through the upper back, horizontal drag lines/wrinkles will appear between the shoulders.

SOLUTION:

While wearing the muslin, pin out a tuck at upper back, tapering to nothing at armhole until the wrinkles disappear. Measure the amount removed. Draw a line across the upper back at the same area you removed the tuck. Cut the pattern across the line and rotate the  upper back down at the armhole until you have removed the same amount. True the center back seam.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

UPPER BACK TOO SHORT

Upper back too short // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the jacket is too short through the upper back, the jacket will feel too tight and will ride up over shoulders. The hem may hike up as a result.

SOLUTION:

While wearing the muslin, cut across the upper back and release the tension. Fill in the wedge you’ve created with a piece of fabric and pin in place until the jacket feels comfortable and the wrinkles disappear.

Measure the amount added. Draw a line across the upper back at the same area you added the fabric. Cut the pattern across the line and rotate the  upper back up at the armhole until you have added the same amount. True the center back seam.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

BACK TOO LOOSE

Jacket too loose in back // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the back of the jacket is too loose, vertical drag lines/wrinkles will appear above the waist. Some width is necessary here to make it comfortable to bend over and move your arms so be careful not to over fit.

SOLUTION:

Remove the collar from the muslin and start by taking in center back with pins, tapering towards the waist. If you still need to remove more width, take in the seam side on the back piece in a gentle curve. Measure the amounts removed and transfer to the back pattern piece. Note that if you take in center back seam, collars and stands will need to be adjusted as well.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

BACK TOO TIGHT

Jacket too tight in back // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the back of the jacket is too tight, diagonal drag lines/wrinkles will appear radiating out from center back and the jacket will feel too snug from the neckline to the waist.

SOLUTION:

Remove the collar from the muslin and let out the center back seam, tapering towards the waist. You may or may not need to let out the neckline seam. If you do widen the jacket at the neck, note you will need to add the same amount of width to collars and stands.

Measure the amount added and transfer to the back pattern piece.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

SQUARE SHOULDERS

Square shoulder adjustment // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

Ensure you are trying the muslin on with the shoulder pads. If you have square shoulders, you may notice wrinkles at the base of the collar across the back and towards the front. Alternatively, you may see diagonal drag lines radiating up from the armhole. This may be caused by using a shoulder pad that is too thick; if possible try a narrower shoulder pad to see if that helps.

SOLUTION:

Remove the sleeves from the muslin and let out the shoulder seam as needed. You need to make the shoulder seam less angled for this adjustment.

This adjustment adds length to the armscye; to keep the sleeve and arm opening the same, measure the amount of depth you added to the shoulder seam. Mark this amount above the armscye curve on the side panel and redraw the armscye with a higher curve so that the length of the arm opening does not change. If this makes the armhole too tight under your arm, leave the original armscye curve. To make up the added width, split the lower sleeve at the bottom notch and add the same amount of width you added to shoulder seam.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

SLOPED SHOULDERS

Sloped shoulder adjustment // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

Ensure you are trying the muslin on with the shoulder pad in. If your shoulders are more sloped than the pattern, the shoulder seam and sleeve cap may stand higher than your actual shoulder. This will cause wrinkles/draglines below the shoulder and at the underarm.

SOLUTION:

The simplest fix for this is to use a thicker shoulder pad. If that does not correct the problem, remove the sleeve from the muslin and take in the shoulder seams as needed, tapering to nothing at neckline.

This adjustment shortens the armscye; to keep the sleeve and arm opening the same, measure the amount of depth you removed from the shoulder seam. Mark this amount below the armscye curve on the side panel and redraw the armscye with a lower curve so that the length of the arm opening does not change.

* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.

SHOULDERS TOO WIDE

Wide shoulder adjustment // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the shoulders are too wide for your frame, the sleeve seam will end too far from the natural end point of your shoulder. Vertical drag lines may appear at the shoulder area in front and back.

SOLUTION:

This is a simple adjustment. Simply remove the necessary width from the shoulder seam at front and back, tapering to nothing along the armscye. This should not substantially affect the length of the overall armscye, which means you should not have to adjust the sleeve after making this adjustment.

SHOULDERS TOO NARROW

Shoulders too narrow // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the shoulders are too narrow for your frame, the sleeve seam will sit too far in from the natural end point of your shoulder. The sleeves may feel uncomfortably tight at the top of the shoulders.

SOLUTION:

This is a simple adjustment. Simply add the necessary width along the shoulder seam at front and back, tapering to nothing along the armscye. This should not substantially affect the length of the overall armscye, which means you should not have to adjust the sleeve after making this adjustment.

FORWARD SHOULDER

Forward shoulder adjustment // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If you have forward thrusting shoulders, the shoulder seam will pull towards the back at the top of the arm and diagonal wrinkles on the sleeve will point towards the front of the arm. You may see wrinkles at the back of the neck curving towards the shoulder seam. The sleeve will feel too tight at the top of the arm.

SOLUTION:

To correct this, you need to push the shoulder seam forward so that it hits at the center of your shoulder. Remove the sleeve from your muslin and release the shoulder seam. Take in the front shoulder tapering to nothing at neckline. Add the same amount you subtracted from the front shoulder to the back shoulder, shifting the width from front to back.

You may need to rotate the sleeve slightly so that the center notch of the top sleeve matches the new shoulder location.

SLEEVE WRINKLES

Sleeve wrinkles // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

If the curve of your upper arm and upper back does not match the pattern sleeve, diagonal wrinkles will appear on the front or back of the sleeve.

SOLUTION:

This is the simplest adjustment! Simply rotate the sleeve slightly in the armscye. You will need to redraw the center top notch on the sleeve and adjust the remaining sleeve notches accordingly.

FULL BICEP

Full bicep adjustment on two piece sleeve // How to fit a Tailored jacket or Blazer // Fit adjustment issues and fixes

SYMPTOM: 

Ideally you should have at least 1 1/2” of ease in the bicep. If the sleeve is too tight across the bicep, horizontal wrinkles will appear in between elbow and shoulder.

SOLUTION:

1. To add with through the bicep, draw two vertical lines parallel to grainline, dividing the sleeve into approximate thirds. Now draw a horizontal line across bicep area, perpendicular to grainline.

2. Cut up across the vertical lines, and across horizontal lines at the left and right side, leaving a small hinge on the outer seam and at the top of the sleeve.

3. Leaving the center portion where it is, rotate the top outer sections out until you have added the necessary width. Now rotate the lower outer portions in until the hems match at the bottom of the center portion. Tape pieces in place, fill in area with paper and true sleeve hem.

Sourcing Interfacing and Supplies for the Jasika Blazer

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This week we're talking provisions for your Jasika Blazer, and after discussing fabric, it's time to move on to interfacing and supplies! This part might feel intimidating if you've never done any kind of tailoring before, but I promise everything is relatively easy to source.

First up, interfacing! Because Jasika is designed for speed tailoring methods, we'll be using fusible interfacings to build up the structure and shape of our jackets. The main benefit of this is obviously speed (hence the name!) Traditionally tailored jackets create structure with many layers of sew-in interfacing and tons of hand stitching, and while I have nothing but respect for these methods (I bow down to all bespoke tailors) it makes for a much more laborious and time-consuming project. If you get the taste for tailoring, learning those techniques would definitely be the next stage in your sewing journey. Here's what we'll be using instead.

INTERFACING & SUPPLIES

The Jasika blazer calls for three types of interfacing, all of which *should* be available at a well-stocked fabric store. If not, we'll include lots of online sources in this post, or you can purchase one of our speed tailoring kits that includes all the interfacings you'll need in addition to sleeveheads, shoulder pads and twill tape.

  1. Weft Interfacing: This is knit like interfacing with threads running throughout that is stable on crosswise and lengthwise grain but stretches on the bias. It gives the drape/suppleness of a knit interfacing with more stability. It is what you will use for interfacing the body of the coat. It generally comes in white or black.
  2. Knit Interfacing: Drapeable, soft, lightweight. This is used on the lapel facing and top collar and the flexibility lets it drape nicely over collar and lapel break. It should stretch on crosswise grain (4way stretch works well too). I'm not too fussy about what you use here as long as it is stretchy and flexible.
  3. Horsehair Canvas: This type of interfacing is traditionally made from the mane of horses (no  horses are hurt!) but you can also find synthetic varieties. It is firm and supple interfacing we'll be using to create stability at the front shoulder. You only need a very small amount, about 1/4 yard.
  4. Cotton Twill Tape/Stay tape: This will be used to stabilize a few key seams and help us create a beautiful roll line at the lapel. Look for it in widths of 1/4" to 3/8". It should be preshrunk by soaking in warm water and pressed until dry. Similar to this. If you can't find you can try subbing in for cotton ribbon.
  5. Shoulder pads: These are necessary to create the proper shape and structure at the shoulder. We are suggesting pads with a thickness of 1/4" - 3/8" thick, but you can also use 1/2" if that is all you can find. Just note you *may* need to adjust the pitch or angle of the shoulder for a thicker pad. I prefer this professional style of shoulder pad (felt layered with batting and the kind we include in our kit) but these foam pads will also work. Please note you can also use our free shoulder pad pattern to make your own (pattern coming in a week or so, but it is included in our course now).
  6. Sleeveheads: These are critical - they help cushion the armscye seam and create a lovely shape at the shoulder. They can be hard to find commercially, so in a pinch use a 2" strip of lambswool or cotton quilt batting cut on the bias. Or use our free pattern to make one yourself (again pattern coming soon!) Sleeveheads are available on Amazon here.
  7. Lapel button: 1 x 3/4" (19mm). You can use a button with holes or a shank, your choice.
  8. Clear button: This will be used to protect your jacket on the other side of the lapel when you sew on your button.
  9. Two 1 x 15" strips of lightweight cutton or muslin (not shown). These will be used to reinforce the corners of your welt pockets.
  10. Sleeve buttons (optional): 6 x 5/8" (16mm). These are merely decorative so feel free to skip them if you want.
  11. Leather or suede elbow patches (optional): We have pre-cut elbow patches available in our shop or you can cut your own using the included pattern piece. If you use real or faux leather, you should use a leather needle to sew to the sleeve. You can find tips on sewing with leather here.
  12. Polyester thread: High quality only please! I recommend Gutermann or Mettler brands.
  13. Topstitching thread (optional): If you want to add a topstitched detail to your lapel, you can use topstitching thread or just use two spools to thread your needle twice.
  14. Silk thread: For basting and temporary construction, similar to this. This is very smooth thread that does not leave marks on fabric but regular poly thread can be used in a pinch.

TOOLS NEEDED

To get good results tailoring, you need a few key tools. Most of these you probably also have, but you should definitely think about investing in a tailor's ham, seam roll and clapper or point presser if you don't already have it in your toolkit. I promise these are tools you will use again and again!

  1. Sewing machine: The average domestic sewing machine is all you need to sew a tailored blazer - no serger necessary!
  2. Quality iron with good steam: I recommend the Rowenta Focus or a gravity feed like the Silver Star.
  3. Dressmaking shears or rotary cutter: I like these scissors and this rotary cutter.
  4. Pinking shears: These are very important! They will help soften the line of interfacing on partially interfaced pieces so it doesn't show on the right side of the fabric. Something like this.
  5. Pattern weights or pins if you prefer to pin your pattern to fabric. These flat head pins are my favourite because they are easy to pull out while you're sewing.
  6. Sewing machine needles: Choose an appropriate weight for your fabric (I generally go with a 80/12 or 90/14 needle). You should have a finer needle like a 60/8 or 70/10 for your lining. If you are sewing leather elbow patches, you may want to use a leather needle.
  7. Marking tool like a Chaco liner or Tailor's chalk.
  8. Point turner: to help turn the lapel and collar like this.
  9. Hand sewing needles and a thimble: I like these Japanese needles. Running your thread through this wax and then pressing it between paper towels to remove excess wax helps prevent thread snarls. This leather thimble is the best.
  10. Wood clapper for crisp seams or an all in one clapper/point presser for pressing open the small seams around the collar and lapel. This is a vital tool; it is hard to get truly professional looking seams without using a wood clapper to help flatten and "lock" seams in place.
  11. Tailor's ham and seam roll. You can probably get by with just a tailor's ham but I find the seam roll invaluable for pressing open seams without the seam making an impression on the right side of the fabric.
  12. Press cloth: I prefer using silk organza because I can see through, but lightweight cotton or linen also works. You can find inexpensive silk organza at Dharma Trading Company.

INTERFACING & TAILORING SUPPLY SOURCES

Again, our kits include all the interfacing & supplies you need, but you can also find it at the following online stores. I had trouble finding European shops but if you know of more European tailoring supply sources please let me know!

So that's it! Later this week we'll be covering fitting and making a muslin. Any questions about tools and supplies?

Learn to Sew A Classic Blazer // Modern Speed Tailoring Course from Closet Core Patterns

Sourcing Fabric for Your Jasika Blazer

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This week for our #blazerofglory challenge we're focusing on gathering fabrics, supplies and making a muslin. To help you on your way, we'll be sharing posts this week on all three of these subjects, starting with today's post on sourcing fabric for your Jasika Blazer.

Choosing the right fabric for this project is probably the most important decision you'll make. Since blazers can be styled and worn SO many ways (as we showed in our styling post) I think it's worth the time to think about what you want out of your jacket. Do you want something for a fancy event? Something professional for work? A casual blazer you can throw on top of jeans? A bright or patterned statement piece? This can help narrow down what type of fabric you want to look for.

Before I break down the best fabrics to work with (and where to get them!) I want to take a minute to really stress how important it is to follow our fabric guidelines. We suggest medium to heavyweight suitings or lightweight coatings with surface texture such as wool melton, wool flannel, crepe and tweed, or velvet, medium-heavy weight cotton, seersucker and linen. When you think "suit" you probably visualize a very finely woven suiting fabric like wool gabardine and this is NOT suggested. Here's why: these types of very fine suitings have a very flat, smooth surface which makes it very difficult to properly fuse with a home iron. In an industrial setting they these use special fusing machines that precisely calibrate pressure, heat and steam to permanently interface the fabric. In my experience, it can be very tricky to do this at home with an iron. The more finely milled suitings have a tendency to bubble. In and of itself this isn't a catastrophe, but since these fabrics are so fine you can clearly see the bubbling. If a tweed or melton bubbles slightly, you won't see it on the right side of the fabric (it doesn't necessarily compromise the structure of the jacket, but it is rather unsightly when it's visible). If you're unsure about your fabric, I highly suggest fusing a sample piece and then try to press it with steam once it's cooled to see if any bubbling occurs, and to test the steadfastness of the fusible. If it very easily pulls away you may have trouble down the line.

I'll also say that those lovely Italian suitings don't always suit women's curves as well as something with a little more give and flexibility, and they are a little trickier to work with, especially setting in the sleeve. My first blazer was made with a very fine gabardine as a test and it ended up bubbling and I couldn't finish it. I just want you to have the best experience possible, so unless you have a tailor in your city who can industrially fuse your pieces for you (a service I can have done at M&M Textiles here in Montreal), stick to the suggested fabrics! They are much friendlier for first-time tailors.

In case you need a visual aid, here is ane example of a lightweight wool gabardine I would avoid at all costs. Hopefully it gives you a sense of how smooth and fine the weave is.

SUGGESTED FABRICS

Wool: Choose medium to heavyweight suitings or lightweight coatings with surface texture such as wool melton, wool flannel, crepe and tweed. There are SO many gorgeous fabrics in this category so feel free to go wild! We suggest lightweight coatings and I think this is worth a try. Many coatings I encounter feel too lightweight for a Montreal winter, but would make a super cozy blazer. What you want to avoid is anything too thick or beefy. Since we're doing a lot of fine, detail sewing, you want something that won't be too bulky or tricky to work with when it's time to sew those welt pockets and collars.

Many suitings have a small amount of stretch. I've never used these to make a Jasika but I think they can work as well -- if that's your intention I would make a muslin with a fabric with similar stretch. A comment on weight: fabric is weighed by grams per meter and some fabric shops will list the GSM. For a wool jacket I would not go any lighter than 210 GSM. You may see suiting fabrics with numbers attached, ie Super 120. That refers to the thinness of the fiber used when weaving it rather than the weight. If you want to nerd out over that, there is a good blog post explaining that here.

Here are some examples of solid wools I think could work well.

one // two // three // four // five // six // seven // eight // nine

Looking for something a little more graphic? Try a wool check, plaid or print.

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Cotton: Crisp cottons with body will work well for this pattern. Think seersucker, twills, brocades etc. I am dying to make a cotton jacquard Jasika at some point, and cottons will work better for warm weather.

Linen: Choose a medium to heavy-weight linen. Anything too lightweight will not have the necessary body. These make the loveliest blazers for spring and summer if you don't mind a slightly rumpled look.

Silk: There are many gorgeous silk suitings out there all though they tend to be pricer. They are often blended with wool if that is a concern.

Here are some lovely suitings in the linen, cotton and silk family:

one // two // three // four // five // six // seven // eight // nine

Velvet: Nothing is more glam than a velvet blazer but they are quite tricky to sew with. I recommend finding a cotton velvet with a low pile, almost an upholstery weight. This is what we used for our velvet sample and it took the fusible well. Note that anything with a deep pile will be hard to interface since the velvet will show the mark of the iron. Try interfacing a sample with low pressure on a towel underneath the velvet to protect the nap to test.

Synthetic suitings: There are lots of synthetic suitings on the market. Choose something with a bit of surface texture so it will adhere with the fusible. Protect your fabric with a press cloth at every stage since synthetics show heat marks from the iron quite easily.

Here are some examples of poly and synthetic fiber suitings appropriate for our pattern:

one // two // three // four // five // six // seven // eight // nine

FABRIC SOURCES

Most well-stocked fabric shops will carry fabrics appropriate for this pattern. The following list is not exhaustive (see our online fabric store post for that!) but these particular stores stood out to us because of the variety they offer. Here in Montreal I love M&M Textiles (a tailoring specific shop with TONS of fabric and supplies) and Goodman Textiles (they have an enormous room in the back with hundreds of bolts of wool).

FABRIC SOURCES - NORTH AMERICA

INTERNATIONAL FABRIC SOURCES

  • MyFabrics.co.uk (UK) - wide variety
  • Dugbale Bros & Co (UK) - incredible selection of wools, supplier to Saville Row. You need to set up an account but I'm not sure about minimum orders.
  • Ditto Fabric (UK) - lots of wool and designer fabrics
  • Fabric Dreams (UK) - lots of wool options
  • Joel and Sons Fabrics (UK) - gorgeous haute couture and designer fabrics
  • Truro Fabrics (UK) - wide variety of quality fabrics
  • MacCulloch & Wallis (UK) - high end fabrics and tailoring supplies
  • M. Recht (AUS) - great source for shoulder pads!
  • Tessuti (AUS) - lovely, wide selection. They also stock interfacing.
  • Dress Fabrics (Ireland) - curated selection with wool, linen & cotton options
  • Fabworks (UK) - tons of wool fabrics!
  • The Fabric Store (NZ) - amazing selection of linens and specialty fabrics, curated selection of wools

** Feel free to let us know of any other online shops with great tailoring fabrics!

LINING FABRICS

In addition to your body fabric, you'll want to source a nice lining. My personal preference is for rayon bemberg (breathable and it comes in tons of colours) or something a bit more luxe like silk charmeuse. You're welcome to use synthetic fibers, but note that they don't breathe as well and I find, particularly in the case of acetates, that they shred and tear more easily. You can also use smooth, fine cottons like voile or batiste, ideal for a summer weight linen or cotton blazer.

Rayon bemberg is wonderful but can be a bit tricky to work with. There are some great suggestions for working with it here, but my biggest piece of advice is to use a very small needle (ie. 60/8 or 70/10) to avoid pulled threads. It can be tricky to ease (especially around the sleeve cap) so I always hand basted my sleeves in place first to reduce puckers. A walking foot definitely helps, and cutting it with a rotary cutter rather than using pins and scissors is also suggested.

So that's it for my fabric suggestions today. All this fabric research has me hungry to make a dozen more blazers. Let us know what fabric you'll be using for your Jasika or any questions you might have!

Learn to Sew A Classic Blazer // Modern Speed Tailoring Course from Closet Core Patterns

Styling Inspiration for the Jasika Blazer

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Hey guys, Amy here! We have been all blazers all the time for a while prepping for the launch of the Jasika Blazer pattern, but just when I think I've seen all the ways you could possibly wear a tailored jacket, there is a little tweak, a new colour or a styling trick that gives us fresh ideas. We thought we would share with you some of our favourite Pinterest inspiration with you today; that board has been getting thicker and thicker over the last year and hopefully this will get you inspired about adding this versatile piece to your wardrobe. Let's get pinning!

A NIGHT ON THE TOWN

How to Style a Formal or Evening Blazer // Blazer outfits ideas for Jasika Blazer from Closet Core Patterns
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In 1966, when YSL unleashed Le Smoking the world was ready for a change. Women were being liberated in more ways than one, and what better way to claim their independence than taking over the power of tuxedo dressing? (With a twist of course.) Flash forward to 2019 at the Oscars, we saw a lot more ladies than usual rocking a suit. Is it time for another female liberation? Evening doesn't need to be only for gowns and tight dresses. Claim your power in a perfectly cut suit (perhaps paired with our Sasha Trousers?) or style your blazer with a slip dress a la Carrie Bradshaw. So inspired!

STAND OUT IN A CROWD

How to Style a Casual Blazer // Blazer outfits ideas for Jasika Blazer from Closet Core Patterns
1/ 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6 // 7 // 8 // 9

Fashion week in NY was ALL about blazers styled in unconventional ways this year. Belts and fanny packs on top, hoodies underneath... I didn't even pick the kooky ones for this! That said, you don't have to go this far to stand out in a crowd. For this look, we are trying out ways to make the suit jacket your style. So often we feel intimidated by pieces in our closet that we deem too formal to wear every day. WHY?! It's just a jacket. Throw a dress underneath it, a belt on top; consider your blazer just another layer and just watch those heads turn. Where did she get all that style???

CHILL & CASUAL

How to Style a Casual Blazer // Blazer outfits ideas for Jasika Blazer from Closet Core Patterns
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The principle at work here is much the same as above but with even less... trying. Sneakers, ripped jeans, well-worn t-shirts; you are really wearing your comfiest, laziest, errand running clothes, but you know, with a blazer. Any time you would normally reach for a jean jacket, instead throw on a perfectly tailored blazer. But like, NO BIG DEAL. Now muss up your hair, put on some sunglasses and head to the grocery store. THERE IS NO COOLER LOOK.

COLOUR STATEMENT

How to Style a Colourful suit // Blazer outfits ideas for Jasika Blazer from Closet Core Patterns
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Mark my words, 2019 is the year of the colorful suit. Now that's all fine and good if you are a millionaire celebrity with a stylist and money to burn. You can wear a floral Gucci suit once and then throw it in the archives. The traditional wisdom goes that if you are investing in a tailored suit you should go with a traditional color (black, navy, grey) for maximum use and timelessness. But, my friend, YOU are a sewist. You must not heed this conventional wisdom, for you can have ALL of the suits because YOU CAN SEW THEM. Treat yourself this season to a beautiful suit in the perfect shade of marigold, fuschia, cobalt. You can wear the pieces separately or on the days when you want to stand out, wear that suit in all its glory. (And then wear it with sneakers and watch people's brains melt.)

BIZNESS

How to Style a Blazer for work // Blazer outfits ideas for Jasika Blazer from Closet Core Patterns
1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6 // 7 // 8 // 9

Business= blazer. But not so fast. There is no business drone dowdiness happening here. Pair your blazer with a flowy skirt, or make a skirt suit in a fun color. Add piping and flowy pants to create a  pajama dressing look, but still polished. When you are coming in with a beautifully tailored jacket you can get a bit creative with the rest of your look because your jacket is screaming GIVE ME ALL THE MONEY AND RESPONSIBILITY BECAUSE I SEWED MY OWN BLAZER FOR THIS MEETING. You see? Boss lady.

I don't know about you but I am going to shop for fabric now. The hard part will be picking one to start with...which look inspires you the most?

Introducing the Jasika Blazer Pattern + Our New Online Tailoring Course

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Guys. GUYS. GUUUUUUYS. Today marks the culmination of almost two years of work, the single biggest challenge this business has taken on since we started releasing patterns six years ago. It's been a wild ride, but I couldn't be happier or more proud of the result of all that tinkering, obsessing, lost sleep, countless muslins, endless research and long days: this is the Jasika Blazer and she was worth every.single.minute.

The idea for this pattern came to me when I had a meeting to attend and nothing that felt appropriately polished. I realized I didn't own a single blazer, which seems CRAZY to me now since I think they are easily one of the most foundational things you can have in your closet. I sketched out the idea about two years ago and it was one of the first things Celine (our now full-time patternmaker) drafted for us. We worked on it for a while but there has been so much going on with Closet Core that I kept putting the deep development work aside until I had the brain power to focus on it for a few months straight, which is what happened this summer and fall. I didn't know much about tailoring when I really got into it, so I spent months reading every book written on the subject, practicing every second I got and talking to as many tailors as I possibly could (thankfully one of my favorite all-time pattern testers is a tailor in real life so she humoured me with all of my questions).

The result is, I think, the best pattern we've ever released. I am really, really proud of our instructions, which are hand holdy without being annoying, and filled with great techniques to make the construction of this downright pleasing. This is a speed tailored project, meaning most of the structure comes from fusible interfacings rather than padstitching and sew in interfacings. That means you can make a gorgeous tailored blazer made just for you in a fraction of the time of a traditionally tailored jacket.

Here she is, my baby.

This grey check sample (made with a fabric that actually made me cry tears of joy when I found it here in Montreal) is View A. It's a little sportier with the contrast under collar and elbow patches. We include a pattern piece for the patches if you want to cut your own from leather or suede, but we're also stocking a limited supply of fusible faux suede patches in our shop if you'd like to skip that step.

One really important thing I want to point out is to please pay careful attention to the fabric we suggest for this pattern. In the course of developing our blazer, we discovered that lightweight suitings like wool gabardine (likely the fabrics you think of when you think "suit") don't like being fused with a home iron. They have a tendency to bubble since the texture is so smooth and fine and it's hard for the interfacing to adhere. There are tons of other options out there, so unless you have access to a local tailor who can fuse your pieces with an industrial press (luckily something we have here in Montreal at M&M Textiles in St. Leonard) stick to fabric with a little surface texture like melton, tweed, wool flannel etc.

For a more formal look, I was inspired by Yves St. Laurent's iconic "Le Smoking" suit, so I made up View B with a lovely cotton velvet (available here from Mood) with contrast satin details. Tailoring velvet has its challenges, but this look can also be achieved with a matte black wool.

The cut of this blazer was something we spent A LOT of time thinking about. I wanted a super timeless shape, one that would look equally stylish today, ten years from now or thirty years in the past. It's semi-fitted, meaning it skims the body rather than hugging it, but it's easy to shape it more to your bod through the side seams if you're into a more snug fit. It features a classic notched lapel, welt pockets at the breast and hip, a center back vent for movement and a beautiful two-piece sleeve. Oh and we've created FBA pieces too! If you get the PDF you can download C & D cup pieces there, or if you have the print copy you can download them from our sewing resource library (password:sewjo).

This is a style you can easily dress up or down, making it perfect for a casual Sunday brunch, a glamourous evening event or the office. I've made myself a few beauts I'm looking forward to sharing with you, and I kind of can't believe it took me this long to get on board. I am now the full-blown conductor for the Blazer Train, and I hope you'll feel confident climbing aboard, knowing the full support you can get from us on your tailoring journey.

ONLINE COURSE

To accompany this pattern, we have filmed a comprehensive online course that walks you through each step of the process from fabric selection to sewing professional looking buttonholes. While our instructions are great (if I do say so myself!) the course is far more intensive and is filled with tips, tricks and techniques that are much easier to demonstrate on camera. I highly suggest taking the course if tailoring is something you're apprehensive about, especially since it includes the Jasika pattern with enrollment in addition to lots of extras like a downloadable fit guide and free patterns for shoulder pads and sleeveheads. It's currently 15% off until March 21. We are still waiting on our videographer to export the final lessons so you should be able to watch all the lessons as of Saturday, although if you enroll now you can access the included pattern and fit guide.

Here's the trailer to give you an idea of what you'll be learning:


If you're feeling nervous, it's normal. Tailoring is next level sewing. I procrastinated for over a year getting started on this project because of my own nerves but... you probably know what I'm going to say here... it's not as hard as you think! Especially since we've done alllll the hard work of figuring out the most accessible way to construct it, all you've got to do is commit the time. It is a more time intensive project (even with our speed tailoring methods) but I've found making these blazers to be very meditative and fun. I have so much more confidence in my sewing abilities because frankly, if you can make a blazer, you can pretty much make ANYTHING, and that's kinda the best feeling on earth.

TAILORINGS KITS

Our timing couldn't be better. I can't open a magazine without getting bonked on the head with tailoring EVERYWHERE so I can't think of a better time to dive into this fun new skill. To make it even easier, we've sourced some pretty special tailoring kits as well. While you should be able to find almost everything you need at a well-stocked fabric store (and we'll be sharing a blog post in a week or two with lots of sources!) we wanted to offer almost everything you'll need in one place. After months of research, I finally tracked down a great tailoring supply wholesaler here in Montreal (still blows my mind about the fate of that discovery!) and our kits have gorgeous, industry quality interfacings milled in Italy, and professional sleeveheads and shoulder pads made in Montreal, just like what the ones real tailors use. We have them in black (good for most applications and what I used for every sample I made) and a smaller quantity of white, which I suggest getting if you're using a light coloured and thin fabric.

We are really excited about this pattern and what it will do for your lifelong sewing practice, so to encourage you and support our community we will be hosting a Blazer challenge in March and April. Each week will have a different prompt (so you can take your sweet time sewing it) with amazing weekly sponsors and prizes. My team and I will be sewing right alongside you every step of the way, which should be especially fun since Amy has never sewn a blazer before either. I'll speak more about this challenge on Monday, but just know you'll have a community sewing right alongside you!

Finally, I could not end this post without giving a very big shout out to our muse, Jasika Nicole. If you read her blog or follow her on Instagram (and if you're not, get on it!) you know she is one of the most fearless, bold makers out there. SHE MAKES HER OWN SHOES! I know, because she taught me how the last time I was in LA, and if I wasn't a little bit in love with her before that sandal making adventure in her adorable backyard studio, it's now morphed into a full-blown love affair. This woman is an inspiration. If she wants to make something, she makes it, no matter how difficult or intimidating it might be. She's honest about her mistakes and is just enjoying her sewing journey for wherever it takes her, and that energy is something I hope you tap into if you want to push yourself to learn something new, and maybe make something fabulous along the way.

Phew! So, this is the story of our Jasika. I am thrilled to have this wonderful pattern enter our catalogue, and absolutely cannot wait to see what you do it with it.

To Summarise:

Jasika Blazer as PDF

Jasika Blazer in Print

Tailoring Course (including a free PDF copy of the pattern)

Tailoring Supplies Kits

Faux Suede Elbow Patches

 

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