Sleep Masks for Everyone: A Free Eye Mask Pattern!

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Whether you're looking for a quick project for yourself or a thoughtful gift for someone you love, nothing beats sewing up a custom eye mask for instant sewing gratification! Using our free eye mask pattern and scraps from your fabric stash, you can easily whip up one (or many!) of these in a jiff.  Our eye mask design is a bit different than the typical ones that secure around your head with elastic. Instead, it wraps all the way around your head and secures with velcro, which means it totally blocks light and also helps to muffle sound. Once you try it we think you'll be a total convert!

To get our eye mask pattern, you can download the PDF from our members-only Sewing Resource Library in the section called "Free Patterns". As with all our pattern freebies, you need to be signed up for our newsletter to get the password to access it. If you've already subscribed and forgot the password, check the footer of any past email from us - we always include the password there as a reminder. Otherwise, sign up using the box below.

We especially love this as a scrap-busting project! You need very little yardage, and it's a fab way to use those precious bits of silk or linen we always feel so bad about throwing away and can never find a use for. We would also encourage you to experiment with fabric combinations, like silk or satin on the inside, and something fun or graphic on the outside. You can also choose to add a layer of quilt batting for padding and ultimate comfort!

You will need: 

  • Eye mask pattern from our Sewing Resource Library
  • 1/4 yard of fabric, or whatever scraps you have at y our disposal (don't be afraid to piece or quilt them together!)
  • 3" hook and loop velcro tape without adhesive (the non-sticky kind won't gum up your needle)
  • Pins or wonder clips
  • Thread
  • Optional: quilt batting (we used the bamboo/cotton blend batting here
  • Optional: piping

For the version in this tutorial,  I am using two different fabrics. The outer fabric is a lovely organic cotton flannel from Core Fabrics, and on the inside I'm using a piece of sandwashed cupro. Cupro is a great silk alternative and feels so lovely on your face! Luxury darlings, luxury!

HOW TO SEW OUR EYE MASK 

Cut your pattern pieces out - note we have a separate piece for the padding since you don't need it to extend all the way around your face.

Once you cut out your pattern pieces, it should look like this:

Place the batting on the wrong side of the front pattern piece. Line up the edges and pin to the back piece, right sides together. 

Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns

Starting at one end of the mask, stitch through all layers, around the edge at 3/8" seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Leave both ends of the mask open, as you will be turning it inside out through these openings.

Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns

Trim the batting all the way to the stitch line, being careful not to snip stitches. Use duckbill scissors if you have them to make this step easier. Trim or grade the other seam allowances depending on the thickness of the fabrics used. In this case I only trimmed the flannel. The cupro can be a bit unravelly so I didn't want to clip it too close to the stitch line and the fabric will sit smoothly inside.

Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns

Turn the mask right side out and press well. If using a delicate fabric like silk or cupro, make sure to use a press cloth.

Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns

Lay your mask back onto the pattern and mark with a removable pen where the topstitching for the batting will go as well as the notches on either end where you will fold the unfinished edges in. Topstitch a straight line between these markings on the four locations of your mask. Press either end in 3/8" wrong sides together. Fold these edges in again, using the topstitched lines as a guide and press well. Topstitch down those edges at 1/8".

Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns

Pin each side of the velcro on the places marked on the pattern. The hooked side of the tape goes on the left (as worn) outside of the mask and the loops go on the inside of the right side. This way when you close your mask, you won't accidentally catch your hair with the little barbed wires. Topstitch the velcro down as close to the edge as you can. I use the hooks as a guide trying to not sew through them but still catching the tape.

Trim your threads, spray with a little lavender oil and get ready to have the best nap of your life!

Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern / Eye Mask / Sleep Mask // Closet Core Patterns

These are a really easy project to batch sew if you want to make them as gifts, and if you are making pajamas for yourself or others (like our Carolyn Pajamas) don't forget to scrap bust a matching mask!

Happy Sewing!

Keep your Pup Warm with our Free Dog Coat Pattern!

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Hello! Amy here. We are so excited to share our latest free pattern with you, especially since it's designed for our furry best friends! The #ClosetCoreDogCoat is a free PDF dog coat pattern available in multiple sizes. We wanted to create a fun project that will result in a cozy n' warm best friend and hopefully use up some of those awkward scraps you have laying around. Heather's pup Harry is basically her familiar, and my Jeanie is an integral member of our family - it's time to treat them with the same attention to style that we apply to ourselves!

Collectively we've tried a lot of different dog coats (Montreal winters are slushy, snowy nightmares) and this one is our favourite style. The top portion is darted around the tush to create a curved shape around the hip (yes, dogs need darts too!) while the harness wraps under and velcros on top to help keep their chests dry while leaving the nether regions free and clear.  I have to be honest: I was dragging my feet on starting this but I don't think I've had this much fun sewing in a long time. Tiny little pieces of quilting, lots of pretty bias binding, and cute fabric choices make this little project just the thing to tackle when you have a few hours to sew. Best of all, it's yet another project for tackling those mounting scraps. It's also a huge money saver since we all know how spendy nice dog clothes are. If you don't have a pup yourself, I'm sure you know someone who would be VERY excited to get this as a holiday present! 

The pattern is drafted to fit dogs with a back length of 8-28", and it's easy to adjust if your dog is longer, shorter, or wider. To download the pattern, you'll have to sign up for our (awesome) newsletter. We'll send you the password to our Resource Library when you get this and ALL our free patterns and resources! You can sign up below.

DOG COAT FABRIC OPTIONS 

There are lots of fabric options for this coat; I'll walk you through the versions I made to give you some ideas. For Jeanie, I made one in some leftover canvas with a cozy lining I cut from a polyester throw blanket I scored at the dollar store. For Harry, I made a wool version with a precious scrap of Pendleton wool leftover from Heather's coat she made a few years ago, lined with some sherpa from this jean jacket (yes, Heather & Harry have matching coats, and yes, they cause quite the scene walking around like this). And finally, for this tutorial, I made a raincoat version in a waterproof goretex leftover from this anorak, lined with a crispy tartan twill we had in the scrap box (I would not recommend trying to make bias tape out of said crispy twill however, live and learn y'all).

As you can see, this pattern works with a wide variety of fabrics; what you need to figure out is if you're going for water-resistant, warmth, or a combo of the two. You can beef up the warmth with your lining fabric (sherpa and fleece are lovely!) or use a regular woven for the lining and use a quilt batting as the middle layer, which will give you the opportunity to do some quilting. Choose your own puppy adventure!

You will need: 

  • The PDF pattern printed out in your pup's size (accessed through the box above; remember you have to be signed up to our newsletter to get access to the Sewing Resource Library, the password can be found in the footer of every email we send out)
  • 1/2 yard-1 yard of outer fabric. We recommend canvas, twill, denim, nylon or goretex and wool
  • 1/2 yard-1 yard of lining fabric: Sherpa, fleece, flannel or quilting cotton
  • Optional: quilt batting for in between outer and lining
  • 1 yard of 1" hook and loop velcro tape without adhesive
  • 2-4 yards of 1" bias tape, handmade or storebought (see our tutorial on making bias tape here)
  • 1" bias tape maker
  • Thread
  • Wonder clips

FINDING THE RIGHT SIZE FOR YOUR DOG

Our free dog coat pattern includes 11 sizes. To find the size for your pup, measure from the base of the neck along the spine to the base of the tail, and then choose a size using the chart below. We've also provided neck and chest girth for reference. Our sizing is approximate - while the length may be good, depending on the size of your dog's chest, you may need to adjust the width through the body. We suggest making a quick muslin to check sizing before sewing up a jacket that may not fit. You can then check length, width, and ensure the straps are long enough to wrap around your pooch's body and still overlap enough in order to close properly. If you need to make any adjustments, we've indicated on the pattern where it's best to lengthen and shorten. 

Our 11 sizes will accommodate everything from a small dog (think Yorkie or Chiahuahua) up to a large lab. If your dog is bigger or smaller, use the lengthen/shorten lines to adjust as needed. For reference, Jeanie is a size 12.

SEWING OUR DOG COAT PATTERN

A quick note: if you are scrap-busting this project, you don't have to cut the harness piece on the fold. I cut it out of two separate scraps (adding a seam allowance) and then topstitched it flat on both sides of the seam.

Once you have all your pieces cut, sew the darts on your outer fabric and lining. Here is a handy tutorial on sewing darts if you need it! The darts allow the back of the jacket to conform to your dogs rear instead of sticking straight out.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

The next step is to sandwich the lining and outer fabric together, for main body and harness . It's best to treat both layers as one piece, so baste them together around the edge inside the 1/4" seam allowance. You may find a walking foot helpful here to keep the pieces from shifting.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

For the sherpa linings, I quilted the outer fabric to the lining using a grid pattern with topstitching thread (use a walking foot for this step if you have one). I started by pinning the fabric together all over and then starting in the middle working my way out. For the Pendleton wool version, I followed the lines in the design with regular thread to quilt the two pieces together. It's really up to you how much you want to do with this step. Remember, you can also insert a layer of quilt batting for extra warmth, and you can try a variety of quilting techniques, from straight lines to free motion quilting.

Once the pieces are attached, the next step is to add velcro and the optional vent or buttonhole. The velcro placement is indicated on the pattern and should be marked with the disappearing marker of choice. If you're having trouble seeing the velcro markings, use the layers feature when you're printing the PDF to make it easier! 

The sticky side of the velcro (the hoops) will be sewn to the lining side of the straps on the harness piece. The soft side of the velcro (the loops) will be sewn across the outer fabric of the main body piece. You'll also need to sew a shorter piece of looped vecro on the fabric side of the halter on one side only. When all is said and done, you should be able to wrap the halter straps around your dog, securing hook and eye on both sides, with a bit of overlap secured by an additional piece of short velcro. Try the coat on your dog before sewing the velcro in to ensure it's in the right spot - you may need to adjust the velcro placement.

Once you've confirmed velcro length and location, secure the velcro by sewing all the way round the perimeter;  an edge or zipper foot may make this easier. Make sure the thread is invisible/matching on the right side of the coat.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

If your dog wears a halter instead of a collar you may want to make a hole for it to pass through. If it is a very small D ring you could probably get away with a buttonhole, but if it is larger, another nice option would be to use the belt loop vent from our Sienna Maker Jacket for a totally clean finish. The pattern piece is included in this PDF and the instructions for how to install it are here.  Once you have the halter on the dog, put the body piece on top and note where the ring will pass and how much space it will need. Once you have that sorted out, we are ready to start sewing things together.

Right sides together, sew the neck hole closed at 5/8". Press this seam open and finish both sides of the seam with bias tape. Alternatively, if you are sewing with fray proof fabric like nylon, trim the lining fabric back and topstitch either side of the seam flat.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

Now it's time to finish the neck hole with bias tape. I started by sewing it in on the inside so that my final pass was on the outside. We have a tutorial on two different ways of installing bias tape here if you need help with that step.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

Finish the harness in bias tape starting on one side of the short straight seam, finishing on the other side. Wonder clips are great at holding many layers of fabric that might be tricky to pin otherwise.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

Once the halter is finished with bias, attach it to the body of the jacket by centering it on the neck seam. Right sides together sew this at 5/8".

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

The last step is to finish the entire body with bias tape. Start and finish the bias tape at the neck seam in one smooth pass. It's a bit bulky where the harness attaches but hopefully you can make it work.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns
Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

To secure the harness in place, press down along the seam where it attaches to the body and stitch in place.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

Once you've tried it on your dog and ensured the velcro is hitting in the right spot, attach the last piece of loop velcro to the side of the strap that will lay on top.

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

Here's what the finished coat should look like:

Free Pattern: Dog Coat // Closet Core Patterns

And that's it!! A cozy, warm and waterproof dog jacket for your best pal! Please let us see your handiwork by using the hashtag #ClosetCoreDogCoat. It is surely going to be the cutest hashtag we've ever created and we can't WAIT to see what you come up with! We're also hoping to make a Jeanie/Harry photoshoot happen soon, so stay tuned!

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DIY Leather Belt Bag // Free Pattern & Tutorial

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Amy here! 2019 is most definitely the year of the belt bag! We have seen them all over, from the runways of fashion week to just about stylish lady on the street. However, if you're a little incredulous at the idea of this trend making a comeback, know this is not the ubiquitous fanny pack of the 80's and 90's. This year's iteration is a little more grown up, often made from leather, with a more dressy belt than a plastic clip. And today, we have a free pattern and tutorial to make your very own belt bag, a chic and functional addition to any me-made wardrobe.

Our belt bag pattern was designed to accompany our latest patterns, the Rome Collection, and we love it layered over the Fiore Skirt & Pietra Pants. We hope you enjoy a hands-free summer with this baby, which is just big enough for a small wallet, passport, iphone and lip balm; feel free to scale it up or down to suit your needs!

DIY Leather Belt Bag // Free sewing pattern from Closet Core Patterns
Model is wearing the Cielo top and Fiore Skirt

The options on this bag are just about endless. You can make it bigger or smaller, use an existing belt or make one from scratch, change the closure, add more pockets... really this is just a jumping off point. This was my first time sewing with thick leather and I have to say, it is very addictive. There are a few basic principles I will share with you here but leatherworking is an in-depth hobby that should you choose to get into in a serious way, will provide you endless opportunity to improve. I will give you the basic tools you need, but again, all you need to do it pick up a Lee Valley catalogue to see that you could spend the rest of your life buying special tools for this purpose and there would still be things you don't have yet... So with that said, let's get started! First step is to download the free pattern in our members-only Sewing Resource Library in the box below. To get access, sign up for our newsletter below and we'll send you the password!

MATERIALS

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

The first thing you need to do is source some leather. We bought a whole hide from a supplier in Montreal but obviously, you don't need that much for this project. You could also use pleather, vinyl, upcycle a thrifted leather skirt or jacket, or this cool paper fabric that works like hide. You want to make sure it is thick enough to hold its shape, but not so thick you can't sew it with your machine. I suggest reading this blog post that Heather wrote a while back about working with and sourcing leather before you get started. Don't be scared! This bag I'm showing you was my first attempt.

You'll also need:

  • Leather needles
  • Teflon foot to glide over the hide. If you don't have one, adding frosted scotch tape to the bottom of your foot will work in a pinch.
  • Nylon thread. This is super thick, durable thread generally used for leather work, but a beefy topstitching thread will work as well.
  • Sharp, heavy-duty exacto knife
  • Pencil or ballpoint pen to mark your leather
  • Awl or hole punch
  • Hammer
  • Anvil (you can use the bottom of a cast iron frying pan)
  • Self-healing cutting mat
  • Thick hand sewing needle
  • Depending on what you want to use for your closure (we used a snap) you will also need the tools for snap setting. If you have extra Kelly Anorak snaps you are all set!

Start by printing out your pattern. You will want to figure out how to lay it out to waste the least amount of leather. Once you like your layout, trace around each piece with a pencil or ballpoint pen. We tried sharpie but it leaves a mess if you don't cut the entire line off. From there you will cut carefully through your trace lines.

Make sure you use a fresh blade and that you are keeping it 90 degrees to the mat. If your leather if very thick you can create a bevelled edge if you're not careful.

If you want a credit card holder, align it on the bag body at the suggested location marked on the pattern. Mark the corners with a pen so when you get to your sewing machine you can adjust it in place. Lower your needle through the corner and sew 1/8th" from the edge, leaving the top side free. Leave long thread tails on both ends and don't back stitch!

A tip for sewing with leather: to help the leather glide under your foot, use a teflon foot or cover your foot with a piece of frosted scotch tape. Read this blog post for a refresher on leather sewing tips.

Pull the thread tails to the outside of the bag and either knot together and clip or using your hand sewing needle, weave the tail back through the holes you already made. The picture I am using of that step is of the outer edge, but you get the idea.

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Next, mark the slits for your bag - we've marked the pattern with a suggested location. Align the top of the slit with the top of the pocket and make the slits approx. 3/4" apart. You will make these slits as wide as your belt. If you are using a ready made belt, simply measure that, or if you are making a custom belt, decide your width based on your buckle.

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

If you are using a snap closure as we did here, you will also want to attach your snap parts now. In order to mark the location I just pushed it really hard into the leather where the snap front looked good.

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Using your awl, make a hole where your mark is.

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

If you have a hole punch tool (which comes with our Kelly Anorak kits!), it's easier than using the awl since it removes a piece of leather rather than just pushing it out of the way. I used our hand press to install the snap parts - hole punch removes just the right amount to get the cap post in.

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Next up: installing the snaps!  It's best to do this step now; it's tricky to do when the bag is sewn together.

Install the top of the snap on the flap of the bag body. In order to line up the snaps on each side of the bag, align the two parts of your bag, fold over the flap and mark where the snap on the bag body hits the front piece. Next, install the bottom of the snap on the bag front. Need help installing snaps? We have a tutorial for that!

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core PatternsFree Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Now it's time to sew the bag front to the bag body. Wonder clips are an awesome pinless way of holding everything in place but be careful - they have teeth on one side so just test a piece first to make sure they don't mark your leather. Sew your bag edge at 1/8", leaving long tails at both the beginning and end of your stitching. Don't backstitch since you want to reduce the amount of times you puncture the leather.

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Pull the thread tails to the back and tie them off.

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

On to the belt! If you are choosing to make your belt from scratch, measure your waist where you think you'll want to wear the bag. Allow for a little extra for the sewn end and then give yourself 6-8 " of overlap since you might want to wear your bag over a coat or lower on your hips. I suggest cutting it extra long and then trimming down if necessary. When cutting, try to cut as cleanly and smoothly as possible - a quilting ruler is your friend!

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

There are lots of buckles out there and they are all installed a little differently. For the buckle below, I wrapped the end of the leather around the end and stitched it in place.

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Almost done! Time to add belt holes. The hole punch is the best way to make professional looking holes in your belt. I hammered mine on an anvil, but the back of a cast iron frying pan will work in a pinch!

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Moment of truth! Lace your belt through the slits at the back and try her on!!

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

Free Pattern // DIY Leather Belt Bag // Closet Core Patterns

How are you going to wear your belt bag??!! Show us by using the hashtag #closetcasebeltbag!!

Free Pattern: Shoulder Pads and Sleeve Heads

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Hello! Alexis here. I'm here today with a quick tutorial to show you how to make your own sleeve heads and shoulder pads for our Jasika Blazer (or any tailored jacket for that matter!) If you're having trouble sourcing high-quality shoulder pads and sleeveheads or simply enjoy DIYing as much as possible, we have a free pattern for you.  This pattern can be downloaded in print at home format in our sewing resource library, which is exclusive to our newsletter subscribers. Get the password by signing up to our newsletter in the box below.

We've seen a few shoulder pad patterns out there, especially in vintage coat patterns. There are a few different styles you can make - you may see DIY shoulder pads that are made from cotton wadding or stuffing that is inserted into a nylon or cotton sack and stitched closed. The style we have drafted for you here is comparable to the high-quality ready-made shoulder pads found at many professional tailoring shops and is designed to gradually taper in width so they are invisible from the right side of the garment (we include these high-quality pads in our tailoring kits if you don't feel like making them yourself). The nice thing about the way these have been drafted is that you can totally customize the height of your pad, which is especially helpful if you have especially sloped or uneven shoulders. No need to rely on a commercially available pair when you can make these fit your body exactly, right?

While our free sleevehead and shoulder pad pattern was drafted for the Jasika Blazer, you can use these for other projects too. You may need to adapt the pattern depending on the garment you are making, but this is easy to do. Generally, the shoulder pad should cover almost the entire shoulder, and the curved edge should stop about 1" from the neckline of the jacket. Reshape the pattern pieces as needed to suit your garment.

MATERIALS & SUPPLIES NEEDED

  • Free Sleevehead & Shoulder Pad pattern (available in our sewing resource library, get the password when you sign up to our newsletter, see above)
  • A small scrap of horsehair canvas (a 5" x 7" piece will do, you may also substitute with heavy cotton muslin)
  • A quarter yard of your choice of lambswool, cotton batting or fleece (for the sleevehead and shoulder pad middle). This is basically what you would use to line a quilt with.
  • A quarter yard of your choice of lightweight felt or fleece (for the outer layers of the shoulder pads). You can also use lambswool or cotton batting in a pinch.
  • Polyester thread, hand sewing needle & thimble
  • Pins and/or Wonder Clips
  • Optional: temporary fabric spray adhesive

A quick note about felt... it varies a lot in colour, thickness and stiffness. You want something that has a little bit of structure so your shoulder pad will serve its purpose in the jacket, but if it is too stiff, it won't have the nice curve you need to shape the shoulder. We found this black felt at our local craft supply store, and it was about 2mm thick. If your felt doesn't have enough structure to it, you might consider lining it with some cotton muslin. Once you've gathered your supplies, it's time to cut out your pieces! When your pattern piece instructs you to cut in pairs, be sure you are cutting mirrored pieces, so you will have both a right and left shoulder when you are done.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

How to Make Sleeveheads

We cut our main sleevehead pieces in a soft cotton batting, and our sleevehead canvas from horsehair canvas. Pin the sleevehead canvas to the sleeve head, matching the front single notch. You want the canvas on the front of the sleeve, because it is meant to prevent the front part of your sleeve from collapsing. If you don't have any canvas, these sleeveheads will still work - you just want have the additional structure at the front. We've cut exaggerated notches in our pieces so it is clear which end to sew in the photo below.

Machine stitch the pieces together with a 3/8" (10mm) seam allowance. And you're done! Moving on to the shoulder pads...

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

How to Make Shoulder Pads

For each shoulder pad, you will need one top layer cut from felt, one bottom layer cut from felt, and a few middle layers cut from your batting. The pattern piece for the middle layer indicates to cut four- two for each shoulder. Depending on the thickness of your batting, you may need more or less. Ensure you cut mirrored pieces for both right and left shoulder! Below, we have our pieces cut for the right shoulder.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

The Jasika Blazer pattern calls for shoulder pads that are 1/4" thick. To test how thick your finished shoulder pad will be, sandwich the layers together and measure with a ruler or seam gauge. Keep in mind, you may need to add more or less layers to accommodate the slope of your shoulder.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Once you know how many batting pieces you will need for your middle layer, it's time to get going. We took a shortcut, and used our temporary fabric spray adhesive to glue baste our pieces together.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Sandwich the middle batting layers in between the top and bottom layers of felt, matching the notches on the straight side of the shoulder pad. If the layers are too thick for pins, clothespins or Wonder Clips will do the trick!

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Thread your hand sewing needle and knot the end. Sew through all layers using a long running stitch. Do not pull your stitches too tightly, or the finished pad will not be thick enough. While you're sewing, hold the pad so there is a gentle curve along the center notch, with the longer top layer curving down. Sew back and forth from one end of the shoulder pad to the end, so the layers are secured all over the pad.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

Here is the left shoulder pad all finished. When our stitching reached the end of the middle layer, we followed the edge of the batting with our stitching.

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

A finished pair of DIY shoulder pads, ready to be installed in our jacket!

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

And that's it! These handmade sleeveheads and shoulder pads are relatively simple and inexpensive to make, and 100% customizable. We hope you enjoy our free pattern!

SAVE TO PINTEREST:

How to make Shoulder Pads and Sleeveheads // Free Pattern // Closet Core Patterns

The Ultimate Scrap Busting Project: DIY Pouf Pattern!

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Hi all, Amy here! If you are a regular on this blog you know we did a series of scrap busting tutorials this year. We used up fabric that you might have had kicking around to make little snack bags, beeswax wraps and produce bags, and this time, we saved the best for last. Call it our Christmas gift to you: a free sewing pattern for a gorgeous, Moroccan inspired floor pouf.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core PatternsFree Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

It's a fun and easy quilting project that also makes additional seating or a nice rest for your tired feet. For this DIY pouf we will be using up lots of those beautiful fabric scraps you love and want to look at, BUT.... we will also be using up a whole whack of scraps/thread/batting/sheets/towels/old clothes that you don't want to look at EVER AGAIN. Can you imagine? You will finally have a useful resting place for all the ugliest fabric in your stash, all the tiniest bits of fluff and uselessness, all the tiny scraps that are too small to do with anything with and that make you feel like garbage when you have to throw out. If you are anything like me, it's a thrilling idea. You mean I can clean out my rag bin AND get a new piece of furniture?! Yes. I know. Here we go!

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Materials + Supplies

  • Free pouf pattern (available in our sewing resource library - the password is sent to you when you sign up to our newsletter - see the box above for access)
  • 2 x piece A, 12 x piece B, 12 x piece C  (use a sturdy, medium to heavyweight fabric; you can use lighter weight fabric if you interface them first)
  • 1 x 22" zipper (we used an invisible zipper but a regular one is fine too)
  • Heavy duty needle (size 16-18)
  • Polyester thread
  • Invisible zipper foot or zipper foot
  • Light weight mesh fabric for inner bag (old curtain sheers work well for this)
  • Drawstring cord (can be same as piping cord)
  • Fabric for piping (optional)
  • Piping cord (optional)

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

To begin, choose an array of scrap fabrics you find pleasing together. For our sample, I chose a mix of light to dark in a palette of greys and blues. Heavier weight denim, linen and other wovens should be fine on their own, but lighter weight fabrics or anything loosely woven should be interfaced with a non-stretch medium weight interfacing.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

If you need to interface your pieces, cut them out first. Arrange them on the interfacing, cut away the excess and then block fuse them all at once (use a press cloth to protect your iron).  Once you have them fused you can cut them apart again.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

To make your pouf washable (and stand the test of time) finish all 24 pieces (triangles and rectangles) with a serger or zig zag stitch on both sides. I chain-pieced this step, feeding them through in batches and cutting them apart after. Don't finish the short ends of the side pieces - we'll do that in one go at a later stage.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Once you have your pieces ready, you can lay out the triangles in a circle and arrange the colours as you like. That's a nice pizza!

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Next, arrange the triangles in pairs and sew the seams at 3/8"(1omm). Press the seams open. If you are chain-piecing these, make sure to keep track of which pieces are next to which by returning to your circle after each step.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Now sew three pairs together (half the circle) twice, pressing seams open between each step.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns
Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns
Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core PatternsFree Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

At this point you may have to trim and adjust your half circles. Keep in mind if you are using thick fabric you need to press both sides WELL in order to maintain the circle.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Sew the two half circles together. Press middle seam open.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

I suggest making piping for your edges; for a tutorial on how to make piping you can look here. We used leftover Kelly Anorak cord and fabric from Heather's gold Sasha trousers (scrap-busting people!!) that has a thickness of 3/16th. Remember, for this project we are using 10mm  seam allowances so make sure to adjust your piping seam allowance as needed.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns
Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Pin your piping to the circle top, and trim at the end, leaving a 2" tail of overlap.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Open up the seam on your piping and trim the cord back so that it butts up against itself. Fold the extra piping fabric inside and pin down. Sew the piping in place all the way around the circle.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Serge or zig-zag the entire circumference of the circle including all fabric.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns
Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

We are now going to install the zipper on our pouf bottom. Start by serging or zig-zagging the straight edges (I did it after I installed the zipper but it's probably easier to do it now).

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

On the right side of the fabric draw a chalk line 3/8" (10mm)  from the edge of both half circles. Line the teeth of your invisible zipper up with this line and sew (right sides together) on both sides of the zipper. I used an invisible zipper foot, which is lovely. If you have one, now is your chance to use it! You can also use a regular zipper if that's what you have on hand.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Press well, but use a press cloth to protect your zipper from melting.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Pin piping to top of circle and sew at 3/8" (10mm) repeating steps above. Trim the zipper teeth if necessary.Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Let's assemble the sides.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

For the sides of the pouf you will want to arrange your rectangles in a pleasing pattern. To do this I split the 12 pieces into a repeating pattern of dark, grey, white. Depending on how many different fabrics your using you can figure out a similar rationale.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Chain piece these rectangles together on the long sides at 3/8" (10mm). Press seams open.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Finish the top and bottom edge with a serger or zig zag. Sew the edges of both ends of your pieces right sides together in order to create a large loop. Press this last seam open.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Pin the top and sides right sides together. Sew at 3/8" (10mm), using the piping or zipper foot, getting as close to the piping cord as you can. Sew on the top side so you can see the thread attaching the piping. Open the zipper on the bottom and repeat the above step to attach the bottom to the sides. Turn right side out.

Bonus points if you wear your pouf like that episode of Friends where Joey gets his head stuck in the turkey.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

For the last step we are going to stuff this baby! I made a super easy drawstring bag out of old curtain sheers using this tutorial as a basic guide. Obviously this is about ten times the size and is a rough estimation but as long as it is bigger than the pouf it will do the job of holding the scraps. You don't need to make this bag, but we found it much easier to create a lining if you want to wash your pouf - saves you from having to deal with re-stuffing all the tiny scraps.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Now is the time to use up every little odd and end you have in your scrap bag; thread, bits of interfacing, trimmings from the serger, old towels, stained clothing not appropriate for the thrift store - EVERYTHING! It doesn't get any more Reduce, Reuse and Recycle then this.

I stuffed the bag about halfway, placed it in the pouf and then kept stuffing until full. To cram as much as you can in there, push really hard on the bag to try and compress your scraps. Pull the drawstring, tie it in a knot and tuck inside. Now you can zip up your pouf and get ready to lounge!

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Heather brought the poof home and apparently it's been seeing a lot of action.

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

We love this project because it's a beautiful object that not only uses up those odd shaped fabric scraps you may not be able to find a use for otherwise, but it's also a lovely reminder of past sewing projects. This pouf uses up scraps from our Jenny Overalls samples, this dress, this Kalle shirt, these shorts and a few different pairs of jeans, and is stuffed with a lot of stuff that might have instead ended up in the landfill (we do try and make frequent visits to H&M to recycle our fabric scraps but this saved us a trip!)

Hope you like this free pouf pattern! We saved it for the end of the year as a sort of Christmas gift to everyone. Once again, you can get the pattern for free in our sewing resource library. The password is sent in our welcome email. Go forth and pouf!

Save for later:

Free Sewing Pattern // Scrap Busting Pouf // Closet Core Patterns

Supplies You'll Need

  • A quilting ruler is an excellent tool for planning out your grid
  • A walking foot with a stitch guide helps to keep your quilt layers feeding evenly together, ina addition to providing a guide for repeating widely spaced lines
  • No walking foot guide? Use painter's tape to mark straight lines without damaging fabric
  • Spray adhesive, quilt basting pins, or safety pins
  • Sticky gloves like rubber or latex or these fancy quilting gloves to help you easily move your fabric around

Free Pattern Alert! Make our Serger & Sewing Machine Cover

by Leave a Comment

Hi all! Amy here. I am so excited to share this beautiful studio DIY with you; a custom serger and sewing machine cover using our free pattern! This is a fast and satisfying project, perfect for adding some 'zazz to your sewing space (not to mention a great stash buster for all those awkward random yards you may have hanging around).

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Part of the new studio revamp included a plan for matching dust covers for our machines, and Heather was stoked to finally track down the Instagram famous monstera print from Rifle Paper Co and Cotton & Steel; it matches our studio jungle! It was sold out all over but seems to be restocked at Fabric.com. We drafted two patterns for our machines, and we are super excited to share them with you. The sewing machine cover pattern includes two pockets, ideal for storing a machine foot or table extension. The serger cover pattern is sans pocket, but is angled to neatly encase you serger or coverstitch machine. Both can be downloaded using the link below in copyshop or print at home format; you'll need to join our our mailing list to get the password to our Sewing Resource Library (ps. our monthly newsletter is super fun and you get first dibs at new patterns and sales).

MATERIALS NEEDED

  • Free sewing machinge cover pattern (available in our sewing resource library, get the password when you sign up to our newsletter, see above)
  • 1 yard of a sturdy cotton/denim/canvas for each machine (you can also use a linen/cotton blend like our monstera print or Essex linen)
  • Piping (1.75 yards for sewing machine, 2 yds for serger)
  • two small squares of fusible interfacing (sewing machine cover only)
  • polyester thread
  • piping foot
  • snap or button (sewing machine cover only)
  • snap or button setter (sewing machine cover only)
  • awl (sewing machine cover only)
  • hammer (sewing machine cover only)

CONSTRUCTION PROCESS

Since the process is the exact same for both versions, I am going to walk you through making the sewing machine cover, as it is slightly more complicated with two pockets and a snap. The sewing machine cover will fit a machine with approximate dimensions of 15" long x 12" high x 7" deep, and the serger will fit a machine that is 12” long x 12” high x 14” deep. There is a little wiggle room here so don't fret if your machine is an inch larger in any direction, but if you want to fit your machine exactly, we include lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern so you can adjust accordingly.

Ok, let's get started!

First thing you will want to do is make a whole whack of piping using our piping tutorial. I say the more the merrier with piping since it's almost more annoying to make a small amount, and you can always use it in other projects. We made our piping using our body fabric, but you could also make contrast piping or use the ready-made stuff from the store. No shame in the game! Once that's done, cut out your pieces and give everything a good press.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Next, press the long sides of the pocket (piece C) down by 5/8" twice.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Repeat for the other pocket and topstitch both in place.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Lay the main body (the long one) right side up and pin your pockets to either end, lining up the raw edge along the bottom. Baste these pieces together along the raw edges  at 3/8".

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Next, you will be creating the double pocket. We have included a notch at the bottom of the pocket piece which is exactly halfway across. If you would like a smaller pocket on one side for your machine foot or stitch guide, simply measure and do your top stitching there. For the middle pocket draw a line from the notch to the top of the pocket piece and topstitch along that line, making sure to backstitch at the top.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

If you wanted two double pockets, you could of course repeat this on the other side. We wanted to make a big enough pocket for the machine's table extension, so we will be just leaving the other side for now.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Time to attach the piping; if that's a new skill for you, we have an in-depth tutorial here. Pin your piping on to both side pieces (piece B), lining the raw edge up with the outer edge. You may need to notch it in order to help it lay flat.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Using a piping foot, align the needle as far to the right as you can and baste the piping on. I notched the fabric at this point and ironed everything to get it nice and flat.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Next,  match the top notch on piece B with the notch on piece A and pin the pieces together. You are lining up a straight line to a curved line so you may need to ease the fabric around the corners. Move your needle back into the middle still using your piping foot and stitch, making sure you are sewing on the inside of the first row of stitching. Repeat on the other side.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Once done you will want to finish those seams. You can do this with a serger by only trimming off loose threads, or zig-zag to finish the raw edges.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Flip the piece inside out and press the seams towards the body.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

At this point, try the cover on your machine to ensure your hem is the right length. We folded up the bottom 1/2" and then 1". Press using a bunch of steam especially at the corners. Topstitch in place.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

If you want to add a snap or button to your large pocket you will need a snap setter, hammer and hard surface to work on.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Once you know where you want your snap to be, iron a small square of interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric where both sides of hardware will be. For details on setting snaps, see our tutorial. You can also replace the snap with a regular 'ol button.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

And that's it! Don't forget, if you're making the serger cover the process is more or less the same, except you'll be skipping the pockets.

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Here are some shots of all the ladies in situe. It's a jungle in here!

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

Free Pattern // Sewing Machine Cover // Closet Core Patterns

We hope you get some use from our free pattern! It's one of those projects that doesn't feel do or die necessary, but they really add a little something to our space, and protect our machines from dust when they're not in regular use.

Have you glammed up your studio with some sewing machine tuxedoes?

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GET FREE SEWING MACHINE COVER PATTERN

Pattern Bonus! Waterproof Pocket Variation

by Leave a Comment

If you are sewing a waterproof Kelly Anorak, we've created a free pattern bonus for you! While we love the roomy design of our gussetted pockets, they may collect water on very rainy days. For our blue sample in this sewalong, we added an exterior flap to the pocket to create a completely sealed and waterproof pocket. If you'd like to do the same, you can download the modified pattern pieces and instructions below. While we don't have step by step photos for this pocket, much of the construction is the same as the regular gusseted pocket, so please refer to that post if you need a little extra help.

First step is to download the free pattern bonus in our members-only in the box below. To get access, sign up for our newsletter below and we'll send you the password!

Free Downloadable! 33 Back Pocket Designs!

by 25 Comments

Happy Hump Day everyone! Today I'm excited to finally share this nifty free downloadable we've been working for the last few months. Over the years I've done a lot of hunting, researching and people/butt watching, trying to find interesting designs for the back pockets of my Morgan and Ginger Jeans. I thought I'd gather all those ideas up into one package for you; next time you're making a pair of jeans you can just print out one of our templates and use it to topstitch some fun back pockets! This PDF includes 33 back pocket design templates, along with instructions for transferring the design to your denim. Download them in our Sewing Resource Library below! You'll need to sign up for our newsletter to get the password, but you can access all our free patterns, fitting guides and downloadables there.

 

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