Colette Myrtle Dress // Observer Fabric Tour

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You know how you have those patterns on your must make list, but then you keep adding things to said list until it becomes so long and overwhelming you end up feeling a huge amount of guilt and FOMO everytime you look at it? Tell me I'm not alone.

Well, the Myrtle dress from Colette has been on  that list for a long, looong time. I loved it so much when it came out; not many knit dress patterns make me think "glamourous", but Myrtle is the exception;  there is something about a draped cowl neckline that makes me feel like a real fancy lady. So, when April Rhodes asked me to participate in her new Observer Fabrics blog tour, I knew just what to make when this spectacular fabric arrived.

Colette Myrtle dress in cotton spandex // April Rhodes Observer fabric // Closet Core PatternsColette Myrtle dress in cotton spandex // April Rhodes Observer fabric // Closet Core Patterns Colette Myrtle dress in cotton spandex // April Rhodes Observer fabric // Closet Core Patterns

April Rhodes is one of my favorite fabric designers these days; she has a real knack for prints and this fabric is no exception. Paired with this pattern it kind of reminds me of the newsprint dress Carrie wore in Sex and the City, and I will take a SATC fashion reference any day of the week (I am embarrassed by how many times I have seen that show from start to finish, even though I would like to throw the second movie on the ashheap of history where it rightfully belongs).

I've said it before (here, to be more exact), but Art Gallery Fabrics makes the finest cotton spandex, ever. It's extremely soft with a nice amount of body and is an utter delight to sew with. If you're used to paying under $10 a yard for knits, the price may seem a little high but it's absolutely worth it (I actually just bought a few more yards in different colourways off Fabric.com because I can't get enough of it).

Colette Myrtle dress in cotton spandex // April Rhodes Observer fabric // Closet Core Patterns Colette Myrtle dress in cotton spandex // April Rhodes Observer fabric // Closet Core Patterns

Normally I don't wear things until I've photographed them for the blog, but I have to admit I've worn this dress repeatedly before I finally had a chance to take some snaps, praying I wouldn't spill anything on it the whole time. The pattern itself is great, but I made a few changes. I tried on the bodice before sewing on the skirt and found it a little too wide for my narrow shoulders, so I ended up having to pinch out an inch through the center back to get it to fit. Thankfully it's a knit so I just eased the excess of the skirt in, but I'll re-draft the back the next time I make it. I am also quite happy with the flare of the skirt - this fabric has enough body to make it feel nice and full which is satisfying to swish around in. The bodice feels wide enough to easily slip on and off, so I would love to hack the bodice onto my Sallie Jumpsuit at some point or another.

Colette Myrtle dress in cotton spandex // April Rhodes Observer fabric // Closet Core Patterns Colette Myrtle dress in cotton spandex // April Rhodes Observer fabric // Closet Core Patterns

The other change I made was to topstitch the pockets to the front of the dress - they felt a little loosey goosey without it. I might also raise the waist a half inch or so since it's blousing a little more than I prefer.

If you're as smitten with this fabric as I am, you can buy it here. I am also excited to dig into the shibori print voile April sent as well, but it will have to wait till spring since it would make the perfect warm weather dress.

Have you dipped into the Observer collection yet? I've loved everything everyone has been making with it; you can see the entire group on April's blog.

An Animal Print Wren Dress

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I managed to make quite a few things this summer despite my workload and travelling schedule. Most of them have been worn over and over and over again since I've essentially been living out of a suitcase for the past few months, and strangely, rather than getting tired of these repeats I've just grown more attached.

My Wren Dress is definitely on that list of attachments. I made it from an gorgeous animal print rayon knit I bought at Jospehine's Dry Goods in Portland last fall; it matches my skin tone, so it feels like a nude but is broken up with the splotches of black.

I have worn this dress at least once a week for the last two months. It was especially handy when we traveled to Europe this summer, since it didn't wrinkle much and made me feel put together even when I had just jumped out of the shower like I did in Spain when we took these photos.

colette-wren-dress-pattern-4  colette-wren-dress-pattern-6

Ah Barcelona. You have to love a city you can walk around in while drinking a beer.

I really like this pattern. It's a simple, classic silhouette with some nice details: I love the slightly lower curve at the back of the neck, the empire waist that drops as it wraps around the body and the light ruching at the shoulder. It's feminine and flattering and a little vintage feeling; classic Colette.

colette-wren-dress-pattern-7colette-wren-dress-pattern

The wrap depth is perfect on me - enough to not show too much cleave without being overly modest, and I didn't have to adjust the skirt length at all (I generally find things too long or too short....)

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It came together very quickly on my machine, and I even got to hem it using my new coverstitch (more on that to come). The only thing I'm not crazy about is the joint where the wrap portions meet at the clear elastic waistband. There are a few  opposing forces at work there so it creates a weird little pulling above my belly button. It's also possible it's my sewing . I had to sew the elastic in several times - my serger was not enjoying all the layers and gathering and I think things got strangely stretched out down there. I'll have to make another version at some point so I can see - I think it would be delicious in a merino wool knit for fall.

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Making Wren reminds me how much I love a good knit dress, so I've been making some hard decisions about what to do with the knits that survived the vicious stash purge of 2016.

Have you made Wren? What's your favourite knit dress pattern?

Details: Wren dress by Colette, handmade leather sandals from Etsy, vintage Coach purse (similar here)

Colette Mabel in Ikat

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I've been sewing pretty much non-stop for the last month, just not stuff I can talk about yet (wink, wink). I was kind of desperate to do some selfish sewing though, but it had to be achievable in a few hours so I wouldn't feel guilty about making pretties for myself on a Tuesday afternoon instead of working. What better thing to make than a Colette Mabel? I picked up the PDF a few months ago and I'd been waiting for a window when I could crank one out.

This is a FAST make! Like, two podcasts and you're done fast. And instant gratification is always more satisfying when it's something you know you'll wear ALL THE TIME. Because FYI, nothing is more comfortable or functional for someone who works from home than a comfy knit skirt. Having a wardrobe full of these babies basically makes my pajama dressing unconscionable.

Closet Core Patterns: Colette Mabel Closet Core Patterns: Colette Mabel Closet Core Patterns: Colette Mabel

It's a simple design but the details are really well thought out. I made version 2 because I loved the little button placket detail and I wanted to practice my pattern matching skills. Didn't even see the two center seams there, did you? * Brushes imaginary dust off shoulders in display of pride *

Closet Core Patterns: Colette Mabel

I used a thin, drapey ponte from Girl Charlee. I ordered it a few months ago so it's no longer available, which is just as well. It's already started pilling after a few wears: thankfully the business of the ikat print conceals it. I've yet to find a ponte that doesn't pill at some point, which is enraging since it so close to being a perfect fabric. When I'm in NY next week I'll be stalking Mood for high quality double knits so I can knock out about 8 more of these.

The most time consuming thing about this project was laying out my fabric for maximum ikat  pattern match perfection, and agonizing over what buttons to choose. I am blessed with a few cookie tins of buttons that I purchased at a seamstress' estate sale a few years ago, but finding a set of matching ones took over an hour (I finally organized the stash in mason jars according to colour based on the instagram suggestion of Annessa.) I used these slightly iridescent cream buttons  that pick up the cream in the fabric, but I only had 4 instead of the recommend 5. I will survive.

Closet Core Patterns-Colette Mabel Skirt-detail

Closet Core Patterns: Colette Mabel

Couldn't be simpler construction wise. All serged seams with a double needle finish on the center placket and hem. The waistband is a stretch knit from my stash. I paired it with my favourite self drafted tee, which I really need to make many more of since this one is getting pretty dingy. I've also been wearing it with my summer staple, oversized men's oxford shirts. Doesn't get easier in the morning.

So, a big thumbs up for this pattern! It's actually my first Colette make which is pretty shocking, but I think their new knit designs are a little more my speed these days. If you do buy the PDF and want to get it copied at a professional printer, make sure they have a roll that is at least 38" wide - I printed mine on a 36" wide roll and it got cut off.

Incidentally, I've had a few requests asking about the shoes I'm wearing here (and in pretty much every post this summer). I finally caved and bought a pair of Hasbeens this year and they are all that they say they are. Super comfy, and these gold ones
kind of go with EVERYTHING. The braiding needs to be worn in, which is why I suggest wearing them with a pair of damp socks for a day or two to soften them up. I little spendy, but I only buy a few pairs of shoes a year these days, and I'm trying to buy the best I can afford.

Enjoy August my friends! I hope you're sun kissed and swimming in as many bodies of water as possible.

 

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