In this post we'll show you how to assemble the pocket sleeves and how to set in the two piece sleeve for the Sienna Maker Jacket. Note that the sleeved pocket can be added to any view! It's fun having a place to put a pen, like on a delivery person's jacket! If you would like to use the sleeve pocket to hold something like a phone, you may need to deepen the pocket bag depending on size - cell phones keep getting bigger and bigger these days, don't they? If you do decide to make adjustments to the pocket bag or to the position of the sleeve pocket, keep the elbow of the sleeve in mind. When we were developing this pattern we sewed a few samples before realizing the pocket would open every time the elbow was bent since it was too low. Another option would be to sew one sleeve with a pocket, and one regular sleeve. If you are right handed, you would probably want the pocket on the left sleeve, or vice versa if you are a lefty.
ASSEMBLING SLEEVE POCKET (VIEW C)
Below we have the pieces to make the left top sleeve, with fabric right side up. The double notches indicated the back of the sleeve. We have marked in all the notches in red since they were hard to see in the photo. This is important because at first glance it can be a little confusing which side of the pocket lining attaches to which part of the sleeve. We've designed the pocket to have the right side of the fabric on the inside of the pocket.
Use a scrap of interfacing to stabilize the buttonhole location on the lower top sleeve (L2). We've also marked the buttonhole location with red thread.
Right sides together, pin the pocket lining to the lower top sleeve. There are two notches that should match.
Sew the seam at 5/8". Finish the seam with either a serged or zig zag stitch if you like, and press towards the lining.
Understitch the seam allowance to the lining, and press the pocket down along the seam towards the lower top pocket.
Pin the upper top sleeve to the other side of the pocket lining, with right sides together. There is one notch that should match.
Stitch together at 5/8", finish the seam with either a serged or zig zag stitch if you like, and press the seam allowance towards the pocket lining. Understitch the seam allowance to the lining.
Sew a line of topstitching 1/4" from the folded edge of the lower top sleeve and lining. Fold the pocket bag closed along the pocket bag fold line, as indicated on the pattern piece. The finished edge of the pocket opening will match the single notches on either side of the upper top pocket.
It's a good idea to sew the buttonhole on the lower top sleeve now before the rest of the sleeve is attached. Sew a horizontal buttonhole at the location indicated on your pattern piece. It should be relatively centered on the sleeve. Once the buttonhole has been sewn, pin the sleeve pieces together along the pocket bag edges and baste together within the 5/8" seam allowance. This is now the top sleeve.
ASSEMBLING SLEEVES (ALL VIEWS)
Right sides together, match the top sleeve and bottom sleeve along the side with the double notches.
Sew the length of the seam at 5/8". Finish the sleeve with either a serged or zig zag stitch. You may also choose to flat fell this seam, if your fabric is not too thick. Press the seam towards the bottom sleeve.
Right sides together, match the top and bottom sleeve along the other seam, matching the single notch. Sew together at 5/8". Finish the seam and press towards the bottom sleeve. A flat fell seam is not recommended here, as it can be difficult to topstitch the seam in place once the sleeve is sewed into a tube. (We were able to do this for our sleeves for the Kelly Anorak, but with the addition of a pocket lining, it may be too bulky.)
Sew two rows of basting stitches within the 5/8″ seam allowance between the front and back sleeve notches. Pull on the basting stitches to gather the sleevehead.
If you are sewing the sleeves without pockets, the previous steps for sewing the top and bottom sleeve together apply.
SETTING IN SLEEVES (ALL VIEWS)
Right sides together, align the sleeve to the sleeve opening of the jacket, matching all notches. Ensure the you are sewing the left sleeve to the left arm and the right sleeve to the right arm! The single notch indicates the front of the sleeve and the double notch indicates the back of the sleeve. Use lots of pins and ensure the gathering on the sleeve head is evenly distributed.
Sew the sleeves in with a basting stitch first to ensure the sleeve is set in smoothly without any puckers (we love hand basting for this step - it takes a few more minutes but gives you total control over distributing the ease!) Once you've checked the sleeves are set in properly, sew again with a shorter stitch length at 5/8".
Finish the seam with your preferred method (serged or zig zag stitch, flat fell seam, or bias tape). Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. We used a serged stitch to finish our green sample.
To hem the sleeves, press the raw edges under by 5/8" twice. To reduce bulk at the seams, you can trim away some of the seam allowance at the first fold.
Topstitch the sleeve hems in place at 1/2".
Your Sienna Maker Jacket is near the finish line. All that is left are the finishing details!