It's no secret that we're a bit obsessed with jeans here at CCP. Our first big pattern was the Ginger Jean way back in 2015, and over the years, we've released a number of jean patterns in a wide variety of styles and fits. What we resolutely believe: everyone deserves jeans that fit and that make them feel great. We also believe that no single silhouette should be off-limits; instead of thinking too much about dumb rules like "what flatters your body" (BOOO!), think about them as something you get to choose based on comfort, style, and how you want to move through your day.
That said, choosing the right jean pattern can feel overwhelming, especially with so many silhouettes, rises, and fits to consider. In this guide, we break down the key differences between Closet Core Patterns’ jean patterns so you can find the style that works best for your body, your comfort, and your everyday wardrobe. Whether you prefer a skinny, straight, wide leg, flare, relaxed, or barrel leg jean, this guide will help you compare the options and choose the right denim pattern with confidence.
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Start with How You’ll Wear Them
The easiest way to narrow down a jean pattern is to think about when and where you’ll wear it. Are you looking for an everyday pair, something more polished for work, or a style that can handle biking, walking, or winter boots? Those questions help you decide whether you want stretch or rigid denim, and a slimmer or looser leg.
It also helps to think about your personal style. If you lean toward classic, modern, or vintage, that can point you toward very different silhouettes. And just as important: comfort matters. If a certain rise or waistband feels uncomfortable when you sit, that’s reason enough to choose something else.
Jeans Silhouettes Explained
One of the biggest differences between jean patterns is the leg shape. Let's take a look at the classic styles:
- Skinny: Close-fitting through the entire leg, designed for stretch denim for comfort and mobility. Skinny jeans are great for playing with proportions, and tuck easily into boots.
- Straight: Creates a clean column from thigh to hem — no tapering, no flare. Feels timeless and works with almost everything.
- Wide leg: More ease through the leg, with a relaxed, sweeping hem. Reads as polished in a darker wash.
- Flare / bootcut: Fitted through the thigh, then opens up below the knee to add volume at the hem. Creates a longer visual line, particularly when worn with a heel or boot. Bootcut jeans are wide enough to accommodate boots (obvs) while flares are wider and more vintage feeling.
- Relaxed / boyfriend: Looser through the seat and upper leg with a slightly dropped feel. Lived-in without being oversized. Great if you want comfort without going full baggy.
- Baggy: Sits farther from the body throughout, with a lower, slouchier silhouette. More of a statement fit.
- Barrel leg: Rounder and fuller through the thigh, then tapers back in at the ankle. The shaping creates a curved, sculptural silhouette that feels distinctly contemporary.
- Tapered: Full or fitted through the seat, depending on the draft, narrowing toward the ankle for a clean, slightly cropped finish. Sits somewhere between straight and skinny, a great option for a more fitted look in non-stretch denim.
How Rise Changes the Fit
Rise is just as important as leg shape, because it affects where the jeans sit on your body. Mid-rise jeans usually sit around the belly button or just below it and are often the most versatile choice. High-rise jeans sit above the belly button and can create a longer visual line, while low-rise jeans sit lower on the body and may feel better for people who prefer less pressure at the waist.
What matters most is how the rise feels when you sit, bend, and move. If you already own a pair of jeans you love, use that as a reference point for the rise that works best for you. And if you’re unsure, a muslin is the best place to test and adjust before cutting into your final fabric.
Comparing our jean patterns
Here’s a quick guide to how some of Closet Core Patterns’ jean styles differ:
| Pattern | Silhouette | Rise | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ginger Jeans | Skinny + stovepipe (straight through calf) | Mid-rise and ultra high-rise | A close fit, designed for stretch denim |
| Morgan Jeans | Relaxed / boyfriend-inspired | Mid rise | A looser seat and a more casual, lived-in feel for non-stretch denim |
| Frank Jeans | Straight, wide leg, barrel legs | Mid and high-rise | Cheeky through the seat, modular "buildable jean" for non-stretch denim |
| Chloe Jeans (Crew exclusive) | Ultra wide leg | Mid-rise | On-trend wide leg with inserted side panels, designed for non-stretch denim |
| Jude Flares | Flare and bootcut legs | Mid-rise and ultra high rise | Mid-rise and ultra high-rise |
Length and Proportion
Hem length can completely change the feel of a pair of jeans. Cropped wide legs can look fresh and work especially well with loafers, while longer hems create a more dramatic line and can look great with heels. The right length often depends on your shoes and how you plan to wear the jeans most often.
One advantage of sewing your own jeans is that you can make these decisions yourself. If you’re unsure, it’s often easier to start a little longer and then hem gradually until the proportion feels right.
Finished Measurements and Fitting
Finished garment measurements are useful, but they shouldn’t be the first thing you obsess over. When you’re choosing a size, trust the pattern maker’s size chart and start with your body measurements, then use a muslin to figure out what needs adjusting.
This is especially important for rise and fit ease. A jean that’s designed to sit close to the body will behave differently from one that’s meant to hang a little farther away, even if the finished measurements look the same.
Choose what feels right
The best jean pattern is not the trendiest one. It’s the one that fits your wardrobe, your body, and your life. If a pair makes you feel confident and comfortable, that’s the pair worth making and wearing.
If you’re still undecided, try on a few silhouettes in a store just to notice what you respond to visually. Sometimes the fastest way to find your ideal jeans is simply to pay attention to what feels good when you see them on your body!
In the Comparing Our Jean Patterns chart, the “Best for” section on Jude Flares is the same as the “Rise” section and needs to be updated.