Hi all! Amy here. I am so excited to share this beautiful studio DIY with you; a custom serger and sewing machine cover using our free pattern! This is a fast and satisfying project, perfect for adding some 'zazz to your sewing space (not to mention a great stash buster for all those awkward random yards you may have hanging around).
Part of the new studio revamp included a plan for matching dust covers for our machines, and Heather was stoked to finally track down the Instagram famous monstera print from Rifle Paper Co and Cotton & Steel; it matches our studio jungle! It was sold out all over but seems to be restocked at Fabric.com. We drafted two patterns for our machines, and we are super excited to share them with you. The sewing machine cover pattern includes two pockets, ideal for storing a machine foot or table extension. The serger cover pattern is sans pocket, but is angled to neatly encase you serger or coverstitch machine. Both can be downloaded using the link below in copyshop or print at home format; you'll need to join our our mailing list to get the password to our Sewing Resource Library (ps. our monthly newsletter is super fun and you get first dibs at new patterns and sales).
MATERIALS NEEDED
- Pattern - get it above
- 1 yard of a sturdy cotton/denim/canvas for each machine
- Piping (1.75 yards for sewing machine, 2 yds for serger)
- two small squares of fusible interfacing (sewing machine cover only)
- polyester thread
- piping foot
- snap or button (sewing machine cover only)
- snap or button setter (sewing machine cover only)
- awl (sewing machine cover only)
- hammer (sewing machine cover only)
CONSTRUCTION PROCESS
Since the process is the exact same for both versions, I am going to walk you through making the sewing machine cover, as it is slightly more complicated with two pockets and a snap. The sewing machine cover will fit a machine with approximate dimensions of 15" long x 12" high x 7" deep, and the serger will fit a machine that is 12” long x 12” high x 14” deep. There is a little wiggle room here so don't fret if your machine is an inch larger in any direction, but if you want to fit your machine exactly, we include lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern so you can adjust accordingly.
Ok, let's get started!
First thing you will want to do is make a whole whack of piping using our piping tutorial. I say the more the merrier with piping since it's almost more annoying to make a small amount, and you can always use it in other projects. We made our piping using our body fabric, but you could also make contrast piping or use the ready-made stuff from the store. No shame in the game! Once that's done, cut out your pieces and give everything a good press.
Next, press the long sides of the pocket (piece C) down by 5/8" twice.
Repeat for the other pocket and topstitch both in place.
Lay the main body (the long one) right side up and pin your pockets to either end, lining up the raw edge along the bottom. Baste these pieces together along the raw edges at 3/8".
Next, you will be creating the double pocket. We have included a notch at the bottom of the pocket piece which is exactly halfway across. If you would like a smaller pocket on one side for your machine foot or stitch guide, simply measure and do your top stitching there. For the middle pocket draw a line from the notch to the top of the pocket piece and topstitch along that line, making sure to backstitch at the top.
If you wanted two double pockets, you could of course repeat this on the other side. We wanted to make a big enough pocket for the machine's table extension, so we will be just leaving the other side for now.
Time to attach the piping; if that's a new skill for you, we have an in-depth tutorial here. Pin your piping on to both side pieces (piece B), lining the raw edge up with the outer edge. You may need to notch it in order to help it lay flat.
Using a piping foot, align the needle as far to the right as you can and baste the piping on. I notched the fabric at this point and ironed everything to get it nice and flat.
Next, match the top notch on piece B with the notch on piece A and pin the pieces together. You are lining up a straight line to a curved line so you may need to ease the fabric around the corners. Move your needle back into the middle still using your piping foot and stitch, making sure you are sewing on the inside of the first row of stitching. Repeat on the other side.
Once done you will want to finish those seams. You can do this with a serger by only trimming off loose threads, or zig-zag to finish the raw edges.
Flip the piece inside out and press the seams towards the body.
At this point, try the cover on your machine to ensure your hem is the right length. We folded up the bottom 1/2" and then 1". Press using a bunch of steam especially at the corners. Topstitch in place.
If you want to add a snap or button to your large pocket you will need a snap setter, hammer and hard surface to work on.
Once you know where you want your snap to be, iron a small square of interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric where both sides of hardware will be. For details on setting snaps, see our tutorial. You can also replace the snap with a regular 'ol button.
And that's it! Don't forget, if you're making the serger cover the process is more or less the same, except you'll be skipping the pockets. You'll also have to be careful and mirror the side panel piece.
Here are some shots of all the ladies in situe. It's a jungle in here!
We hope you get some use from our free pattern! It's one of those projects that doesn't feel do or die necessary, but they really add a little something to our space, and protect our machines from dust when they're not in regular use.
Have you glammed up your studio with some sewing machine tuxedoes?
I have been trying to sign up for your newsletter to get a copy of your sewing machine and serger patterns but I keep getting an error and can’t figure out why https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/64f28e7923092563e2f604cd2548590286288aca1552e591d064d6423ba7762f.jpg . PLEASE HELP!!!
Thank you,
Janet Graham
Hi Janet. We will manually add you! Not sure why you’re having trouble but we’re on it 😉
I just added you and it said the Welcome message was sent. If you don’t recieve check your email or reply with your email address since I may have sent it to the wrong email.
Hello, what cord would you recommend for piping? I mean for this project? 2 mm or 4 mm? 🙂 Thank you! 🙂
Either would work, just depends on how thick you want your piping!
I’m just about done! but I’m trying to figure out how to neatly hem this since it has piped borders, which create a bit of bulk. Any tips?
You can trim down the string inside the piping at the hem fold – that way you don’t have the bulk of the string in your pressed hem.
Will this cover fit a Babylock Evolution?
You would have to download the files and measure it against your machine. It’;s easy to modify by adding length or width where you need it.
Thank you, Heather. Are the pattern pieces cut along the solid lines or along the broken lines?
If you’re using fabric that has a wrong side, shouldn’t the side pieces be cut on the wrong side? I ended up with one side that had the wrong side showing once I sewed it.
I’d like a download for this sewing pattern please. I’m on the mailing list but wasn’t sent a password
The file can be downloaded directly from the “download” button that appears once you have entered your email address. A pop-up blocker may prevent the button from displaying correctly. We recommend that you disable it.
This was great! I loved the piping technique with the parallelogram. Now I want to make the serger cover but wondering what to do about the thread spools and cage thing that sticks out ( I have the portable Juki.) Since the cover seems to assume those are either put away or don’t exist. Ideas?
The serger cover we made was for the Juki too! We designed it to cover the thread spools and retractable cage since you don’t want those getting dusty if you’re not using it for a while. You can just push the cage down and keep it threaded while the cover is on.
Would a normal quilting cotton be too flimsy for this? I have some awesome fabric that I’d love to use for a sewing machine cover, but I’m not sure if I’d be better off with thicker fabric (or stabilizing it somehow?).
A quilted one would be perfect! If you quilted the cotton to some light batting before you cut it out it would really hold its shape!
Not sure if I am doing something wrong but when I download the pattern there is only the pattern for the Serger Cover not Sewing Machine Cover and when I check out the tutorial there is only instructions for the Sewing Machine cover not the Serger Cover.
Would you mind emailing support@closetcorepatterns.com and they will be able to help troubleshoot this!
Hi, I’m brand brand BRAND new to sewing, in fact this is the very first time I’m using a pattern and I’m already confused! I’m taking the online lessons with you and after lesson 8 you suggest we make one of these 2 patterns as our homework so I’m making the sewing machine cover and terrified but here goes! First question is, and don’t laugh… when cutting out the pattern, am I cutting along the solid line or the broken line that’s inside the solid line? If it’s the solid line then what’s the broken line for? I’m sure this is just the first of many questions…
The solid line is for cutting and the dotted line is where you will be sewing! You’re doing great! Keep it up!
Great, thanks! The other question I now have is do I pin the pattern to the right side or the wrong side of the fabric? Heather doesn’t specifically mention that in the lessons and there are varying opinions on the interweb so I’m at a bit of a loss!
We tend to pin (or weight) patterns to the right side of the fabric but if you are cutting two layers at once it’s sort of the same thing. Happy Sewing!
I’m having the same problem, only serger pattern shows up, no sewing machine pattern.
Ya, really messed me up as well. I can’t begin to tell you the amount of times trying to figure out how the pattern pices also lined up as they didn’t look right for a serger I’m only getting pattern I think for the sewing machine and unable to get serger. 12 pages for serger pattern? I’ll figure it out I’m sure. I have to admit was looking for lazy way to put a pattern together.
I just want the serger pattern
No instructions
Can’t seem to download anything
Hi Wilma,
We’re sorry for this problem. Can you contact us at support@closetcorepatterns.com , please? We’ll find a solution.
I have been trying to get access to your free serger sewing pattern. I’ve subscribed to your newsletter and get updates but not this pattern. Can you help?
Thank you
Daphne
Hi Daphne,
You should be able to download the pattern directly from this post, unless you have a pop-up blocker.
I put in my email address so that i could get the serger cover pattern. I never received it. I am getting emails from you.
Hi Susan,
Once you’ve entered your email address and clicked on the download button, the download should automatically start, unless you have a pop-up blocker.
(the files are not sent by email)
Bonjour,
À mon grand désespoir, et malgré plusieurs tentatives, impossible de recevoir le patron que vous proposez pour le protège surjeteuse dans ma boîte mail…
Je vous remercie par avance pour votre aide.
Belle journée à vous,
Karen
Bonjour Karen,
Le fichier se télécharge directement à partir du bouton “download” qui s’affiche une fois que vous avez renseigné votre adresse email. Il est possible qu’un bloqueur de pop-up empêche le bouton de s’afficher correctement. Nous vous conseillons de le désactiver.
Where is the free pattern? I signed up and never received anything?
never mind I got it. you have to view in a desktop computer not mobile device.
The file can be downloaded directly from the “download” button that appears once you have entered your email address. A pop-up blocker may prevent the button from displaying correctly. We recommend that you disable it.
I adjusted the side pattern piece to fit my Featherweight. I don’t want to print out and tape all the pages, since the main piece is just a rectangle. Would you mind providing the dimensions for this pattern piece?
I did it!!! Had some fat quarters I needed to use, so it’s a bit patchwork-y, but I love it! Wish I could add pics to show it off. Thank you for the pattern and beautiful instructions for the sewing machine cover. I love it!
Can’t seem to download the free sewing machine cover pattern.
Hi Carol,
Once you’ve entered your email address and clicked on the download button, the download should automatically start, unless you have a pop-up blocker.
(the files are not sent by email)
Thank you so much for the sewing machine cover pattern! You simplified it, relative to what others have done, and it looks great! I’m going to make one for each of my machines.
I just finished making this!!!! Aaaah I love it so much!!! Your instructions were great, I used the one for making piping as well. I did the serger version and added a side pocket to hold my pedal. I used a big fun black and white floraly graphic print and bright yellow piping, plus added a fuschia lining just for fun! I also used some lightweight interfacing to give it a bit more structure. Definitely made sewing it a little trickier with all those layers but I LOVE how it turned out. Definitely a huge upgrade from the old pillowcase I was using just draped over it, ha! Thank you for a fun fast sew!!!