Hi all, Amy here. Last week we had one of our biggest launches to date, our Chez Moi Collection: with four new patterns a course and kits and fabrics from Core Fabrics! The response has been overwhelming and we are so happy to have these things out in the world, after being worked on for over six months. Today we wanted to dig a little deeper into our offerings by focusing on the stars of the show: our new bralette and undies patterns. The heart of any lingerie collection has got to be the lingerie so we’ll show you how these patterns can be made in a variety of fabrics and notions to get the most out of these designs.
The Céline Bralette is a soft cup bralette with light support and a dart for shaping. Designed for everyday wear and casual lounging, create a wardrobe of unique bralettes by playing with fabric and construction combinations.
Unlike underwired bras that depend on non-stretch fabrics to create structure, this design relies on knit fabrics with good recovery to create comfortable, resilient support. Look for stretch fabrics that contain at least 5% spandex, lycra or elastane, and have a minimum of 50% stretch. The double layer fabric in the cups adds body and support while allowing for a clean neckline finish.
This view features a mesh or lace insert along the neckline, a fold over elastic finish, uncovered plush-back underbust elastic and a curved back band with bra strap sliders in the front.
This view is a more minimalist style, with a clean-finish neckline, underbust elastic wrapped in matching fabric, and adjustable straps with back sliders. The 14-32 range has a higher plunge and extra seam for a little more support.
Cotton spandex, bamboo/rayon spandex blends, stretch modal, scuba, swim lycra, stretch lace and stretch mesh can be used for both the cups and the back band. Power mesh can be used for the back band if you’d like additional support.
• Note for lined cups: Since you will be doubling the cup fabric to use as a lining, choose light to mid-weight knit fabrics that will not create too much bulk when doubled, such as stretch mesh and lightweight stretch rayon, modal and cotton. If you would like to sew a lined cup with a thicker fabric, consider lining with a lighter weight knit like stretch mesh or lightweight jersey to reduce bulk.
• Note for back band: For light fabrics, we suggest doubling the back band fabric for maximum support. You can also line with mesh, use double layers of mesh, or substitute the fabric for power mesh.
ELASTICS FOR BRA-MAKING
In order to make the most comfortable bra, please shop for elastics designed specifically for bra making unless otherwise stated. Lingerie elastic has a plush back on one side to provide softness and comfort against the skin.
Bra strap elastic (1/2″ (13mm) wide)- Often has a satin face on one side, and a plush back on the other. Should have a firm stretch with exceptional recovery. Can purchase wider styles for additional support, or narrower ones for smaller sizes.
Plush back elastic (3/8″ (10mm) wide)- This style of elastic has a plush back and features one plain edge and one scalloped or picot edge. Choose simpler styles for a clean, minimalist bra, or more decorative styles for fun contrast.
Plush back band elastic (3/4″ (19mm) wide)- Similar to above with a plush back. Most often found with a picot edge, but we prefer a clean edge on both sides if you can find it. Should be medium firm with excellent recovery.
Regular polyester elastic (3/4″ (19mm) wide)- If you’d like to wrap the underbust elastic in matching fabric, you can substitute 3/4″ (19mm) plush back elastic for regular polyester elastic. Look for a medium-firm elastic with excellent recovery.
Fold over elastic (FOE) (3/8″ (10mm) wide)- Lightweight elastic with a crease down the middle so it can be folded in half and wrapped around fabric in clean edge. Often found with a shiny and matte side. If you are using on a view that calls for plush back elastic, you must remove 3/8″ (10mm) seam allowance first!
Both views of this bralette require a few other bra making supplies. You will need: two o-rings for the straps, two bra sliders and one double or triple hook and eye closure.
To try and make this as easy as we can for you, Core Fabrics is carrying a few different options of fabric kits to accompany this release. They are in very limited quantities (so don’t wait!) and have the option to include the patterns or not if you want to source everything in one click! There are seven beautiful colours of organic cotton and tencel blend jersey. The most luxurious fabric to have on your most delicate bits!
THE ANAÏS UNDIES
Style, comfort and coverage in one tidy package, the Anais Undies are a versatile pattern designed to create a wardrobe of underwear you’ll be delighted to wear all day long.
This view is a panelled brief with no side seam and good cheek coverage. Perfect for colour blocking or mixing and matching fabrics, it can be made in a high-rise or low-rise bikini style. View A can be made using a variety of fabrics but we suggest sticking to light-mid weight knits for this style. You can use the same fabric for front, side and back, or have fun with fabric or colour mixing. We especially love stretch mesh or stretch lace along the side panel for a bit of peekaboo skin.
is a slightly cheekier style designed to eliminate visible panty lines by doubling the back in mesh to create a highly comfortable and seamless effect. Both views can be made with fold over or plush back elastic. There are high and low rise options for this view as well. Due to the seamless design of View B, the back panel must be made with stretch mesh, although you can use any of our suggested fabrics for the front panel. If you’d like to make an all mesh version, cut a double layer of mesh for the front if you’d like more coverage, a single layer for less coverage.
Look for stretch fabrics with excellent recovery. They should contain at least 5% spandex, lycra or elastane, and have a minimum of 50% stretch. We suggest: cotton spandex, bamboo/ rayon spandex blends, stretch modal, swim lycra, stretch lace and stretch mesh. For breathability and comfort, use cotton, bamboo/rayon or modal spandex or jersey for the crotch gusset.
ELASTICS FOR MAKING UNDERWEAR
Fold-over elastic (FOE) (1/4″ or 6mm wide)- We suggest FOE with a finished width of 1/4″/6mm (1/2″ when open) but you can also use 3/8″/10mm.
Plush back elastic (3/8″ or 10mm wide)- Plush back elastic requires a seam allowance while fold-over elastic does not. To make it easier to substitute fold over or plush back elastic regardless of view, we have drafted both views for either style of elastic. When printing and assembling your pattern, ensure you are using the correct pattern pieces for your choice of elastic.
LEARN TO SEW LINGERIE
If you are feeling a little overwhelmed or are new to lingerie sewing our course is a great place to start! In it, Heather walks you through all the tips and tricks for beginners and guides you through sewing both the bralette and undies. The patterns are included along with a bunch of resources for fit, fabric and even how to dye your own notions for truly custom lingerie!
So that’s it! Are you feeling ready to make some lingerie?