Cutting and Interfacing // Clare Coat Sewalong

Today we will be prepping and cutting all of our pattern pieces so we're ready to start sewing later in the week. I'm not going to bore everyone to tears with too much cutting advice since you probably already have your own favourite method for doing that.

The biggest thing you want to keep in mind while you're doing your coat prep is pattern piece management. Coats always have lots of pieces and in order to avoid getting confused, work methodically and keep a list handy of what and how many pieces you need to cut.  I also like to note what paper pattern pieces need to be cut from interfacing with a swipe of highlighter; it's easy to visually see them when it's time to cut later on. If you are making View A, be especially careful how you lay out your pattern pieces. Some are not symmetrical, and need to be cut with the right side of the  fabric facing up; it is indicated on the pattern piece itself when that is the case.

Here's my process for coat projects.

1. Cut fabric/body pieces. Set aside paper pattern pieces also used for interfacing after cutting out your fabric.
2. Cut interfacing (don't forget your horsehair if you've cutting View A).
3. Cut lining.
4. Fuse interfacing to fabric pieces.

Pin a note with the name and number of each piece after its been cut so you can keep track. Make sure you're also transferring construction markings and notches as you go. You may find it helpful to hang fabric, interfacing and lining on separate hangers until it is time to put them to use.

INTERFACING APPLICATION

If you are using fusible interfacing, the least fun, most time consuming part of your project will be fusing everything together (unless you scored some pre-block fused fabric!) The key to this process for me is entertainment; make sure you have an interesting podcast to listen to, or a TV show to watch while you're methodically applying the fusible to your coat pieces.

If possible, verify the application details for your brand of interfacing before you get started. In my experience, weft fusible interfacing is applied best with medium heat, a little pressure and a little steam. You want to use pressure to press and hold your iron on the interfacing before lifting and moving the iron to a new location for about 10 seconds at a time. Do not iron the interfacing on with a back and forth motion - think "Lift and press, lift and press". Some areas of interfacing are quite large and will take a little time to apply. Work slowly, enjoy your Scandal or podcast or whatever, and make sure everything is evenly fused to your fabric, otherwise you'll be battling bubbling down the road. It's also best to let the piece cool before you move it to ensure the adhesive has gripped the fabric.

Once your interfacing has been applied and your lining is cut out, we'll move to the next stage: assembling the front! See you tomorrow!