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Fitting the versatile princess seam! For some of you, it's the scariest aspect of sewing your own clothes, and as always, we want to make this part as fun and intuitive as possible. Princess seams are extra functional in that they make it easy to refine the fit of a garment, but why is that? Well, thanks to the presence of a seam around the curve of the bust or the back of your body, it's easy to let out or take in the seam allowance just where you need to adjust the shape of the garment to help it conform to the body. If it doesn't seem quite that simple to you, that's what this post is for! We're here to break down the most common issues you'll encounter when fitting princess seams, along with explanations on how to diagnose and correct each issue.
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Table of contents
Getting Started
As always, the first step is taking a few key measurements that you can use to compare to the size chart of the pattern you are working with. I’ll work under the assumption that you have figured out any details you can about the body type that the pattern company is drafting for and have compared the measurements to figure out the best size for you. Here is our CCP size chart, and our D&D size chart in case you want to know details of the proportions we draft for. As always, we strongly suggest you make a quick muslin of any fitted or semi-fitted garment to help you identify fit issues before you cut into your final fabric.
Note that some alterations can be done before you even cut your fabric! Examples of these alterations are figuring out if your apex coincides with the pattern apex, lengthening the pattern, grading between sizes and doing a full or small bust adjustment. As you become more experienced sewing your own garments and work with different pattern companies, you will get to know your body better, and you will recognize the alterations you require most often.
Comparing Apex Positions
We have extensively discussed where darts should point in a darted bodice, and in a similar way, the crucial first step is to figure out the position of your bust apex in relation to the apex of the princess seam. Ensuring that both apex points match will ensure that the fullness of the princess seam occurs where your body needs it.
So, figure out the position of your bust apex, and let’s find the position of the apex of the pattern. In princess seam bodices, the bust apex is drafted along the princess seam and is usually marked by a notch located at the point where the curve around the bust is most pronounced.
Find the apex on the pattern:
- Trace the seam allowance of the princess seam that joins the centre front and side front pieces of the bodice (we draft 5/8" (16 mm) seam allowance unless otherwise indicated). Extend the notch to locate the apex position on the seamline, or check and see if there is a symbol marked for the bust apex you can use as a reference.
- To turn this into something that you can understand, join both pieces at the apex. The angle between the pieces doesn’t matter, but you see how a princess seam bodice can resemble darted bodices we have worked with before.
Finding Your Bust Apex on A Sewing Pattern
Now, just like we did for a bodice with darts, there are two ways to find YOUR bust apex and mark it on the pattern. The first method works best if you are working with pattern tissue.
Method #1
Align the center front of the bodice with the center of your chest, and align the shoulder point with your shoulder (you may need to draw in the seam allowances to do this). Next, simply mark your apex (or the fullest part of your bust) on the pattern tissue.
Method #2
This method involves a bit more work but may be more accurate. Here’s how to do it:
- From the top point of the shoulder, measure your Shoulder-to-Apex measurement and trace an arc.
- Starting at the center front, draw a horizontal line that is half of your Apex-to-Apex measurement. This line should intersect the arc you just drew. You just found the position of your apex! Yippee!
- Now that you have your bust apex located, compare it to the bust apex on the pattern. If they are more than 1/2" away from each other, it is worth manipulating the princess seam to position it in the ideal place for your body.
Bust Adjustments
Moving the Bust Point on a Princess Seam Bodice
I came up with this alteration after considering how I could easily show you how to raise, lower or horizontally move the bust apex. Here is what I came up with.
Let’s envision the seam lines of the princess seam as dart legs that meet at the apex, and just as how we did for darts, we will reorient the apex position to match your apex (you could instead shift the position of the darts, but I’ll let you figure that one out):
- Trace a line from the base of each seam line to the new apex.
- Close each side of the princess seam starting at the apex and towards the waist. True the length of the seam.
- Do the same for the other side of the princess seam.
- Lastly, separate the centre front from the side front piece and retrace a smooth princess seam curve. Add seam allowances to the new princess seam. Mark the new apex point and re-true the seam.
Small and full bust adjustments for princess seam bodices have been covered in depth previously. In this section, we will share an alternative, simplified alteration that you can use when the adjustment required is smaller than 0.5” (12.5 mm).
Adding Volume to the Bust
Symptom: Bodice will be tight across the bust with diagonal drag lines pointing from bust to side seams and top of the dress. It may not feel as dramatic as requiring a full bust adjustment.
Solution: This adjustment should be made if you need to add just a little bit of width across the bust (1/2” or less). Draw in a more pronounced curve at the fullest part of the bust on the side front panel and fill in with paper. Measure the new line and compare it to the center front panel seam; the difference will be added by slashing and spreading the center from the panel. Split the piece, add the difference, fill in with paper, and smooth the new line.
Reducing Bust Volume
Symptom: Bodice will be loose across the bust with vertical lines along the fullest part of the bust - you should be able to pinch out the excess.
Solution: This adjustment should be made if you need to remove just a little bit of width across the bust (1/2” or less). Start by pinning or pinching out the excess along the side front panel only. Mark the difference on the pattern piece and trim to remove. Measure the new seam line; if it is shorter than the seam line of the center front panel, cut the panel and overlap the pieces to remove the necessary length.
Length and Width Adjustments
We all carry our weight in different areas of our body. Usually, our proportions differ from those of a standardized dress form. You might have experiences with ready-to-wear or patterns that are drafted too short or too long for you, or maybe you are broader or narrower in particular areas. Off-the-rack garments often fall short when accommodating these differences, but bespoke garments are tailored with care to embrace every line, curve and contour of your unique body.
If you know your torso is longer or shorter than most blocks (we draft for a person with a height of 5’-6”, for example), we suggest you refer to the bodice length alterations for the torso in this guide so you know how to alter your pattern pieces before cutting into your fabric. You may also compare vertical measurements on the pattern piece to your own for the back and front waist length.
Similarly, it is necessary to address width alterations before cutting into your fabric to ensure the pattern pieces accommodate you. Whether you find garments too snug or too loose around the bodice, understanding how to adjust width is key. In this case, modifying the bodice width by grading to a larger or a smaller waist will ensure your clothing fits comfortably and complements your unique silhouette, check the size chart to see which size you need to grade to.
Short Torso
Symptom: You have a short torso or the bodice feels long. Loose wrinkles appear around the waist section.
Solution: On your muslin, pinch out a tuck around the entire waist area to determine the amount of length to remove. Slash and overlap along the lengthen/shorten line on all bodice pattern pieces to remove the desired amount. Shorten all pieces by the same amount. Keep the alteration perpendicular to the grainline of each piece. True/connect the princess seams, the side seams, and the back princess seams if there are any. True the length of the princess seams.
Long Torso
Symptom: You have a long torso or the bodice feels too short. The waist of the garment is sitting higher than the designer intended.
Solution: Slash and spread along the lengthen/shorten line on all bodice pattern pieces to add the desired amount. Spread all pieces by the same amount. Keep the alteration perpendicular to the grainline of each piece. True/connect the princess seams, the side seams, and the back princess seams if there are any. True the length of the princess seams.
Wide Waist
Symptom: The area around the waist of the bodice is tight and might creep up as you move. Tightness wrinkles appear below the underbust and around the back.
Solution: Let out or grade the princess seams and side seams on both sides. Grade all bodice pieces to a larger size between the bust point/or the underarm and the waist as required. True the princess seams, and the side seams. Pieces attached to the waist might also be affected.
Narrow Waist
Symptom: The garment looks baggy across the waistline. Loose vertical folds form around the waist in the front and back.
Solution: Take in/grade towards a smaller size along the side seams and princess seams on both sides. Grade all bodice pieces to a smaller size between the bust point/or the underarm and the waist as required. True the princess seams, and the side seams. Pieces attached to the waist might also be affected.
Move the Princess Seams
Symptom: The front princess seam does not cross the bust point on the body or sits further than 0.5” (12.5 mm). Do this if you want to shift this seam line for aesthetic reasons.
Solution: To move the line towards the side seam, cut a diagonal line through the center front and side front panels. Spread the center front pieces horizontally by the desired amount, and overlap the side front pieces by the same amount. To move the seam line towards the center front, do the inverse: slash and spread the side front and overlap the center front.
Gaping at Underarm/Side Seam
Symptom: The bodice is too loose under the arm and gapes rather than sitting close to the torso.
Solution: Pinch and pin out the excess on your muslin. Transfer amounts to pattern pieces, and draw new lines to remove width.
As always, remember that the drape of an entire garment is significantly influenced by how it hangs from the shoulders. If you are working with princess seams but don’t see the alteration you are looking for, we also have an excellent guide to fitting a bodice with darts with many other alterations there!
This post wraps up this series on bodice fitting! Hopefully, you have found this informative and will find it helpful in your fitting journey. It has been our pleasure to learn with you. A special thanks to Heather, Paola, Sylvie and Amy for their enthusiasm and contributions. Thanks to you for following along.
