This is #2 in a series of blog posts on bodice fitting. You can read this post in French on the Deer&Doe blog here. For all posts in the series click here.
Next up in our deep dive into bodice fitting - dart manipulation! Since curves vary widely from one person to another, dart length and location in a pattern are mere suggestions based on average sizes and body shapes. The good news is that when you're making your own garments you can reorient darts easily to make them fit just right for your body. In our last post, we discussed how to find the position of your bust apex and where darts should point, now we’re going to show you how to manipulate the dart to release the volume towards that point.
Darts can be moved around as much as you like, and we will discuss how to reangle, lengthen, shorten, move, and rotate darts using a general bodice pattern with a bust dart. These same principles can be applied to darts in other garment areas. Let’s get into it!
Table of contents
How far from the apex should my dart end?
There are a few essential variables to consider when thinking about the dart length or the distance between the dart point and the bust apex. While the bust apex indicates the point where maximum volume is required, busts are usually curved, and different bust sizes, shapes, and undergarments need to be considered.
As a general rule, the larger the bust, the farther away from the apex the dart point should be. For smaller busts, drafting the dart point 1” away from the apex is often recommended, while a distance of 2” or more is recommended for larger cup sizes and busts. This makes sense if we think bigger breasts have a larger curve than smaller ones.
Now, if we consider the bust shape, conical breasts and undergarments (like bullet bras) would require the dart tip to be drafted closer to the apex. In contrast, rounder breasts and softer curves and undergarments (like minimizer bras), would require the dart tip to be further away from the apex, as this will reduce the pointed appearance.
I’d also recommend considering the fit of the garment; in general, for fitted garments, the dart point is drafted closer to the apex, and for looser garments, it's drafted further away from the apex.
Reorienting a Dart
Whether you are working with one or multiple darts, they should always point towards the apex. If your bust dart is not pointing toward your bust apex, there are two ways to modify it so it points in the right direction. First, we’ll discuss how to reorient a dart. To reorient a dart, you keep the base of the dart fixed where it was drafted and point the tip of the dart toward the bust apex. This alteration will change the angle of the dart slightly. Here is how to do it:
- Locate the position of your bust point on your pattern piece as we discussed in the previous blog post.
- Trace a line from the center of the dart base to the new apex.
- Find the new end of the dart by shortening or lengthening the dart so it ends 1” -2” from the bust apex (as per our discussion above).
- Trace the new dart legs from the dart base to the new dart point.
- Because we reoriented the dart to a new apex, the shape of the dart has changed and the seam allowance needs to be trued to reflect this change. To true the dart, fold your new dart on your pattern piece. The trick is to place your dart tip at the corner of a table then fold your dart and trace the new seam and seam allowance with a tracing wheel.
Repeat this process for other darts if the bodice has more than one bust dart.
Moving the Dart
Another way to modify your darts so they point in the right direction is to move the whole thing. Whether you rotate or move your darts, often comes down to a personal preference. Darts can be moved up, down, or side to side, and this alteration will preserve the angle of the drafted dart, but will change the location of the base of the dart. Here is how to do it:
- Locate the position of the new bust point.
- On a separate piece of paper, trace the full dart, making sure to include the line through the center of the current dart to the apex, the dart legs and the seam allowance.
- If the dart is on a vertical seam, move the tracing paper up/down the center line of the traced dart to reach the new bust point, and move the paper side to side until the seam allowances connect.
- Trace the new dart on the pattern and connect the missing seam allowance.
Consider the design intent and whether you want to preserve the location of the base of a dart or the angle of the dart for a particular design. If you want to preserve the base of the dart, then reorient the dart, and if you want to preserve the angle, move the dart.
Rotating the dart to a new location
Darts can be rotated anywhere as long as the orientation is in the right direction and the volume is released where needed. You can choose a specific direction depending on how fitted the garment is and where we want to accentuate the shape or add a style line. For example, bust darts that come from the waist can give a more fitted shape under the bust, and darts that come from the side seam or the shoulder are better for loose-fitting bodices.
For the Sienna Maker Jacket, for example, we initially drafted the bust dart in the armhole because we liked the look, but we ended up rotating that dart into the side seam in the final pattern to make it easier to manipulate without having to touch the armhole for the final pattern. All this to say: you can definitely change darts and move them around depending on your preference. You can also distribute that dart width into one or more darts (we will discuss this in an upcoming blog post).
To move and rotate your dart we suggest the slashing-and-closing technique. Here is how to do it:
- Trace a line from the center of the current dart to the apex.
- Next, trace a line where you want your new dart to be. If you've made a muslin, you can draw this line on your toile before transferring it to the pattern piece.
- Extend the dart to the apex by retracing the dart legs from the seam allowance to the apex.
- Slash along one leg of the dart and slash along your new dart line, stopping just a smidge before the apex so that the cut-out piece can pivot around this point.
- Close the old dart by joining the dart legs
- Fill up the new dart location with paper, and trace a line at the center of the new dart
- Trace the new dart point starting 1”-2” from the apex (as we previously discussed).
- Trace the new dart legs between the dart point and the seam allowance
- True your dart by folding it on your pattern piece - place the dart tip at the corner of a table and then fold your dart and trace new seam and seam allowances with a tracing wheel.
If you'd like a dart starting at a different seam, repeat this same slash and close method! Here are a couple of examples of dart rotation to the shoulder or along the neckline.
The location of a dart can be transferred to any other point around the pattern by pivoting at the apex without changing the fit of the garment.
Dart Tip!
If you trace a curve in the position where you want your new dart, you can create a curved dart or any dart shape for that matter!
Dart Curvature
Lastly, in areas with curvature, whether that is along the side of the bust, or in the back, depending on your figure, you might find that sewing a straight line from dart base to tip does not provide enough shaping for you. If that's the case, it is totally appropriate to sew the dart leg as a curved line; the shape of the curve will contour to your body in a different way than a straight dart.
Sewing a convex dart that curves slightly outward (about 1/8" wider than the regular dart) is a great way to give more shaping to an area, for example when trying to accentuate the lift under the bust or sway back in the case of the lower back; this slightly wider dart will conform closer to the curve. A concave dart that curves slightly inward (again, no more than 1/8") will give you a little more room, which is excellent if you want to feel more relaxed, whether it’s around your breasts, a looser high hip in your pants, or a full tummy. Try experimenting with sewing curved darts during the muslin stage to see if they give a better fit. Your preference for this might change depending on the garment you are making, the undergarments you are sewing and how your style evolves.
We hope these recommendations make dart fitting easier going forward! Remember, the orientation of the dart is always a good thing to check after any alteration that affects an area around the dart. Next week we will be expanding on our understanding of dart rotation to discuss dart division so you’ll also be learning how to make your own little dart babies. Stay tuned! Don't forget to check out our blog post on sewing darts - so many great tricks for getting beautifully finished darts!
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