In November 2020 we updated the instructions for our Kelly lining. This post covers the new and improved order of construction, so some of the photos in this post will show a different sample than the one you've seen in the sewalong so far. Let's get started!
Your jacket lining should be assembled and ready to attach to the outer jacket. The lined hood should also be ready (if you're making the collar, follow the construction details in our instructions). Press the hem of the outer jacket up by 1 1/2"; note that it is only possible to fold the hem up by 5/8" near the right and left zipper facings- this is normal. The zipper facings on both right and left sides of center front are attached, with the inside edge free.
With right sides together, match the raw edges of the lining to the raw edges of the zipper facings on either side. Start pinning from the neck down. The lining should be 5/8" shorter than the jacket at the bottom of the facings; the outer hem will be folded up and tucked over the lining hem at a later stage.
Here is the lining pinned to the free raw edge of the right zipper facing:
And here is the lining pinned to the free raw edge of the left zipper facing.
When you sew the lining to the jacket along the facings, you want to stop sewing about 3" from the bottom hem on either side. You can draw in a small chalk line as a reminder before you start sewing. Stitch the lining to the jacket along the inside zipper facing with a 5/8" seam allowance.; repeat for both sides.
Press your seams towards your zipper (towards center front, in other words) and turn the jacket right side out. Understitch the lining to the facing by stitching 1/8" away from the edge of the facing, sewing through the facing and lining seam allowance only. You will be sewing on the facing, not the lining. You will stop stitching at the same point 3" from the bottom hem on either side. Repeat for both the right and left zipper facings.
Next up, we want to turn the jacket wrong side out again so we can finish bagging the lining.
On the right side of the jacket, fold the top and bottom right zipper facings in on themselves with right sides together along the seam where the zipper has been sewn in. You can fold the right zipper placket and lining out of the way so they won't get stuck in your stitch line. I've drawn in my stitch line along the 5/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for the left side of the jacket by folding the left zipper facing in on itself with right sides together along the fold line.
Stitch along the bottom of each facing to secure in place, and clip the corners so you'll have a nice sharp corner when the facings are turned right side out. The stitch line should line up with the 1 1/2" hem you pressed earlier.
Next, pull the lining down and line up the raw hems of jacket and lining, matching side seams. It's going to look a bit weird at the corners since the lining is shorter. The secret here is to make sure the seam between facing and lining is open. When you stitch the hem in place and turn everything right side out again, you'll have a nice clean joint.
Here's what it looks like on the left side:
And the right side:
Go ahead and stitch across the entire hem.
The next step is to attach the lining sleeve to the outer sleeve. With your sleeves inside out, press the sleeve cuff of the outer jacket in by 1 1/2". Fold the lining sleeve cuff seam allowance up about 1/2", but don't press.
Match the outer sleeve to the lining sleeve. Make sure the sleeves are not twisted and that the top and bottom sleeve seams match.
With right sides together, pin the lining sleeve cuff to the outer sleeve cuff.
Sew around the circumference of the sleeve cuff at 5/8". Repeat for the other sleeve.
Now it's time for the magic part! Your lining has been attached to the jacket at hem, sleeves and along the zipper plackets. All you have to do now is turn it right side out through the neckline. As you pull everything through, the lining in the sleeve will pull itself into place.
Eventually, it will look something like this:
We still have a few things to do. First, use a point turner at the corners and make sure your plackets create nice, sharp points at each side of center front. You may also want to create a thread chain to link the underarm seams of the lining and jacket to keep them anchored there. More on thread chains here.
You'll notice that at those center front corners, you have a little gap between lining and placket. Go ahead and hand stitch that closed on either side.
Give everything a good press - corners, hems, sleeves.
Finally, it's time to attach the collar or hood. Before we attach it, align the jacket and lining along the neckline and baste them together just inside the 5/8" seam allowance.
Once the neckline is anchored, match up the outer hood or collar to the neckline. The most important step here is to ensure that the edge of the collar or hood lines up perfectly with the edge of the jacket placket. Keep in mind you are only sewing the outer layer in place - the hood lining or collar facing needs to be pulled out of the way. You may find it helpful to clip into the jacket neckline - it straightens out the curved neckline, making it easier to align and attach the collar/hood.
Stitch the outer hood/collar in place. I like to hand baste at the very beginning and end so I ensure the hood and plackets are properly matching and create a straight, even line when attached.
Press the neckline seam up and grade. Now you can secure the hood lining or collar facing in place. If you'd like to add a hanging loop, baste it to center back of your neck facing now.
Align the neckline seams; you pressed up the seam allowance of the lining earlier, so it should all match up. Match shoulder seams and notches and pin in place.
At this point you can slip-stitch the hood lining or collar facing in place for an invisible finish, or edge stitch in place by machine. In the sample below, we did a simple edgestitch, but keep in mind this will be visible when your hood or collar is done up so make sure it's neat from the right side!
Give the hood or collar a nice press.
There are just a few steps left to put the finishing touches on your lined Kelly Anorak. Our drawstring casing is only basted to the outside of the jacket- we need to topstitch it in place to secure it. Pin the lining to the jacket where the drawstring casing is positioned, ensuring the lining is lying flat and smoothly against the jacket.
Topstitch 1/8" away from the folded edge of the drawstring casing. You will sew through several layers: the drawstring casing, the outer jacket fabric, and your jacket lining. You can carefully unpick your basting stitches every few inches as you sew, to make sure the casing stays in place.
If you haven't threaded your drawstring through your grommets, do so before topstitching the other edge of the casing in place, otherwise it can be tricky to manipulate.
Topstitch the bottom edge as well.
Topstitch the right zipper placket in place by sewing along the inner edge through all the layers.
Secure the left side of the zipper in place by topstitching 1/8" from the zipper through all the layers.
Please note for our blue waterproof sample, we removed the folded flap on the pocket and added a flap to the outside so the pocket would be completely concealed and waterproof. If you'd like to do the same, please note we've created a bonus pattern piece with modified instructions. You can download it here.