Assembling the Lining and Hood (Lined Version) // Kelly Anorak Sewalong

When we first released our original Kelly Anorak pattern in October 2016, we had a few requests for a lined version. We're happy to devote a few sewalong tutorials to our Kelly Lining pattern expansion, because while a lot of the construction steps are similar for the lined and unlined Kelly Anoraks, there are a few differences. If you've never sewn a lined jacket before, it may seem complicated at first, but hopefully after seeing the steps broken down here you will see that sewing more challenging projects is completely manageable if you take each step in a bite-sized, easy-to-digest chunk! The first little baby step will be assembling your lining and preparing your lined hood.

With the sleeves, pockets, and zipper placket attached, your outer jacket should be finished now, and you can put it aside while you work on the lining. With right sides together, match the two back lining pieces together along center back and sew at 5/8".

We need to sew a pleat in the back lining to give extra room for movement when putting on and wearing the jacket. Match the notches at the back neckline and pin in place. From the notches, sew a line horizontal down the the center back seam about 2" long  to create the pleat. Backstitch.

Press the pleat and the center back seam allowance to the left side of the jacket (as you are wearing it) and baste the pleat in place along the neckline.

This is what the back lining will look like after the pleat is made from the right side of your lining. (We hope we aren't blinding you too much with our shiny copper penny Kasha!)

Sew the bust darts on the front lining pieces and press them down. With right sides together, sew the front and back lining pieces together at the shoulder and side seams. Press all seams open.

The front and back neck facing pieces should be interfaced. Assemble the neck facing by sewing the front neck facing pieces to the back neck facing along the shoulder seam. Press the seams open. You can neaten the edges of the facing if you wish by trimming down any seam allowance that peeks out.

With right sides together, pin the neckline facing to the jacket lining. The longer (outside) edge of the facing is the seam you'll be sewing. The smaller inside edge is the actual neckline of the lining. If you are having trouble matching the edge of the facing to the lining's neckline, remember that when you are matching a convex curve to a concave curve, you want the pieces to line up along the stitch line, and not along the raw edges of the fabric.

Sew together at 5/8" and press the seam down towards the lining. Grade and understitch the lining in place around the neckline.

With right sides together, sew the top and bottom lining sleeves along both seams and press open. Sew two rows of basting stitches along the sleeve cap of the sleeve linings within the 5/8" seam allowance and gather gently.

With right sides together, align the sleeve lining to the arm opening of the lining body. Make sure you are matching the correct sleeve to the correct arm by matching the double notches which indicate the back of the sleeve.

Sew the sleeve linings to the body lining and press the seam allowances towards the arms.

Now we'll prepare the hood. With right sides together, sew the side hood lining pieces to the center hood lining piece and press seams open. The wide part of the center hood lining panel should be towards the front of the hood where it will frame your face. Sew a line of staystitching just within the seam allowance along the neckline of the hood so it doesn't stretch out when we go to attach the hood later.

Repeat for the outer hood fabric pieces, but instead of pressing the seams open, press them towards the center of the hood. Finish your raw seam allowances with your preferred method and topstitch into place.

We finished our seams with our trusty iron-on seam tape to make sure our waterproof fabric keeps our head dry!

Stitch the hood facing pieces together along the top short seam and press open.

With right sides together, match the straight edge of the hood facing to the front opening of the hood lining and sew.

Press the facing away from the lining and the seam allowance towards the back of the hood. Understitch the lining in place.

Your hood lining is ready to be attached to the outer hood. Before we proceed, please staystitch hood lining at 5/8" along neckline hem of hood lining and press under using the stitchline as a guide (we don't have a picture of this step).

With right sides together, match the hood lining to the outer hood along the front curved seam. Sew together with an even 5/8" seam allowance, drawing in a stitch line if necessary so the curved sides of the hood are smooth and symmetrical.

Grade the seam and clip or notch the curves where necessary. We updated this sewalong in November 2020, so the image below is not quite correct. The seam allowance for the facing/hood should actually be pressed up at 5/8" and caught in your stitching.

Turn the hood right side out and press well. It will look like this:

We didn't photograph an example of a lined coat with the collar instead of the hood - refer to the instructions that came with our lining expansion to see how the collar should be assembled.

In our next post, we'll show you how to sew the shell, lining and hood or collar together for your finished coat!

 

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Read the next post in our Kelly Sewalong series. Get the pattern here.

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